what do you guys think (or have experience with...) is better, spray can painting a bike, or airbrush? i have a airbrush and compressor, but what would be the pros and cons of either/or ?
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do you have an airbrush, or an actual spray gun? if it's an airbrush, that will take forever...
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Originally posted by EmpiGTVYou know why you shouldn't hold in your farts? Because they'll travel up your spine and into your brain. That's where shitty ideas come from.
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I do both frequently. I've thousands of hours of air-brush time (mostly on models). I just don't like messing with bondo and surfacing. - I'd rather someone else deal with repairs that require anything other than painting. It's a pain to me. I'd rather contract someone else to do it when I can. Yep, I'm that lazy.
Generally speaking, Air-brush is for accuracy, rattle-can is for quickness (less prep & clean-up). If your bass-coating or painting a surface the same color throughout, you can do either.
Rattle-canned my ZX-14's rashed left fairing a week ago with from Color-rite paint. and I challenge you to see a difference from the OEM right side. It did pin-prick bubble in two tiny, inconspicuous spots, but it turned-out really well.
There is a misconception that rattle-can paints don't adhere well, but that is false. It is the surface prep that is the key to adherence. Sanding and priming (if priming is required), followed by paint (2-3 coats), followed by clear-coating. Make sure you use a tack cloth in-between and let everything dry really well.Last edited by Nero; 08-13-2009, 02:07 PM.=USAF= Retired
"If you can be convinced of an absurdity, you can be made to commit an atrocity." -Voltaire
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Originally posted by Nero View PostThere is a misconception that rattle-can paints don't adhere well, but that is false. It is the surface prep that is the key to adherence. Sanding and priming (if priming is required), followed by paint (2-3 coats), followed by clear-coating. Make sure you use a tack cloth in-between and let everything dry really well.
+1
I would like to add though, that you need to buy quality rattle can paints. Generally speaking, anything you pick up at walmart or the such will not net the best results. Krylon, Rustoleum, and the knock-off brands are what I am referring to. Will they get a decent finish? Sure, but if you are going to do it you may as well spend a little more money and do it better. Dupli-Color has a quality product, as well as plasti-kote. I have never used Color-Rite, but have heard mixed results with their products. If you have a local auto paint store, I would look into getting a custom-made rattle can with the color of your choice. Most DuPont and PPG suppliers have the ability to do these custom cans with what is usually their professional line base coat in them. SEM also makes a good rattle can. Top it off with a quality clear and you are good to go. You can always tell a good clear from a garbage clear quite easily. Cheap clears will appear milky if you spray them in one spot for too long. Quality clear will not.
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Originally posted by EmpiGTVYou know why you shouldn't hold in your farts? Because they'll travel up your spine and into your brain. That's where shitty ideas come from.
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Originally posted by teddy View Post+1
You can always tell a good clear from a garbage clear quite easily. Cheap clears will appear milky if you spray them in one spot for too long. Quality clear will not.
Yes, Wal-Mart does not typically stock your best paints (at $3.00 per can, big surprise)!
I think the Color-rite paint I used was about $33.00. Painted the whole left-side fairing with it.=USAF= Retired
"If you can be convinced of an absurdity, you can be made to commit an atrocity." -Voltaire
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Well, if you have a good spray gun and the funds, I would opt out for DuPont or PPG base/clear.
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Originally posted by EmpiGTVYou know why you shouldn't hold in your farts? Because they'll travel up your spine and into your brain. That's where shitty ideas come from.
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