BC/CC question

[kevin2502000]

Ok another question, I need to retouch up where I buffed through my cc and base,(oops) can I just fix it by hitting it with the base again and clear coat just that area, or have to clear the whole piece? Also this piece had alot of orange peel, can I clear right over the orange peel, or do I need to sand it down with 1000 grit? Sorry this bc/cc is really new to me

[teddy]

How big of a piece are you talking? If it's a main fairing, you could sand the whole thing with 1500 to smooth out the clear, rebase the area, then reclear the whole thing with blender. DuPont now has a rattle can clear coat blender you could use after reclearing so you don't have to mix blender in with the clear. Considering your paint is still quite recent you shouldn't have any problems doing that.

If it's a relatively small piece, wetsand it with 600 and start over. Re-base and clear.

[mrwhipper]

Teddy is correct. No matter what you should sand though. If you are going to do what is called an open edge blend (where you loose the clear in a panel) all of the coatings need to be with in the sand scratches for adheasion. The problem with open edge blending is that no matter what you do or how you do it, the edge of the clear coat that is open will eventually fail. It can take years but because the clear is so thin on the edge the sun will cause it to derogate. The best way to complete your repair is to sand the panel down with 1000, spot in the burn with color then put one coat of clear over where you have base allow it to flash then put the second coat of clear over the entire panel.

Like teddy said though if it is a bigger panel and you want to spot the entire repair in then grab a gray scuff pad and scuff beyond where the coatings are going to end. Spot in the burn with color (try and keep the gun angled towards the repair to prevent overspray going down the panel) then after flash apply first coat of clear ver the basecoat. (again keep gun angled in) After flash apply the second coat of clear but take it out further than the first. As soon as you are done with the second coat apply a clarr coat blender like A-19301S to the open edge of the clear. Do not over apply. Use thin light coats until the clearcoat edge softens. Then next day you can hand polish the edge to your liking.

This may help.

http://www.pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/dr/ChromaSystem/DAF_A-19301S_TDS.pdf

If you want to PM me, please feel free. Take care.

[kevin2502000]

Thanks guys, yes it is both small pieces that I already have sanded down to 1000 and the buffer wheel dug in right as I started to buff that out. I will just re base that entirely. My other question is say I have cc a piece and it dries. I see it has way more orange peel than I want to deal with. Can I put another cc right over a little heavier to smooth it out or will it not fill in? I am just getting the hang of putting on the cc heavy enough to lay down flat. Buffing and wet sanding are definitely an art I have not mastered yet. So if I read you correctly, I can spray bc just over the damaged spot and CC the entire panel over the sanded 1000 grit portion and it will bring out the shine like it was never sanded?

[mrwhipper]

Thanks guys, yes it is both small pieces that I already have sanded down to 1000 and the buffer wheel dug in right as I started to buff that out. I will just re base that entirely. My other question is say I have cc a piece and it dries. I see it has way more orange peel than I want to deal with. Can I put another cc right over a little heavier to smooth it out or will it not fill in? I am just getting the hang of putting on the cc heavy enough to lay down flat. Buffing and wet sanding are definitely an art I have not mastered yet. So if I read you correctly, I can spray bc just over the damaged spot and CC the entire panel over the sanded 1000 grit portion and it will bring out the shine like it was never sanded?

Yes. Sand the entire panel with 1000 (including the repair area) reapply base over the burn through then clear the entire panel. You should be good to go.

So, lets talk about the texture you are getting. Some times you can get it a little flatter by applying another coat but most of the time the texture will telegraph through, but if the texture is real bad the best thing to do is allow good flashes between coats and put an extra coat on so you can sand and buff or so you can sand and apply another coat. Allowing the clear to cure, sanding it then reapplying more is called flow coating and is commonly used in custom applications. That will help lay the clear flatter in texture.

I do have a concern with your application though. You should not be getting the texture that you say you are. What clear, gun, gun set up and air pressure are you using? Oh yea, what is the mix ratio of the clear?

If you are going to sand to buff, try using a finer grit than 1000. Start at 1200 the finish at 1500. This will give you finer scratches to buff out and allowing you to remove less clear. Remember though, just go over the clear a little with the 1200 then get our desired look with the 1500. Keep the buffer speed around 1500 to 1800 rpms.

[kevin2502000]

The cc ratio is 4:1 per instructions. I let it flash 10 minutes. I am sure it was my technique, the last few pieces I did, were to my eye, flawless. I think I wasn't putting it on heavy enough. I am using a very cheap hvlp touch up gun from menards, better than the gun I bought at the auto parts plac. I was very suprised at how well it could lay down the cc when done right. My technique has been one light tack coat, then a medium coat, then a heavy coat. It seems to smooth right out and flow together. I think I'm running 30-35 pst at the gun.

[mrwhipper]

The cc ratio is 4:1 per instructions. I let it flash 10 minutes. I am sure it was my technique, the last few pieces I did, were to my eye, flawless. I think I wasn't putting it on heavy enough. I am using a very cheap hvlp touch up gun from menards, better than the gun I bought at the auto parts plac. I was very suprised at how well it could lay down the cc when done right. My technique has been one light tack coat, then a medium coat, then a heavy coat. It seems to smooth right out and flow together. I think I'm running 30-35 pst at the gun.

Is that a DuPont clear? If so, they are designed for you to spray the first coat the way that you want the last coat to look. In other words, 2 good med wet coats. No tack coat and med coat needed. Put the screws to it. Sometimes the texture can telegraph through the other coasts from the tack coat. And believe it or not, it can take days for it to do so.

[kevin2502000]

Yes it is Nason clear made by Dupont. I'm going to try going heavier on my first coat on my redo parts and see how that works, THANKS!

Kevin

[mrwhipper]

Yes it is Nason clear made by Dupont. I'm going to try going heavier on my first coat on my redo parts and see how that works, THANKS!

Kevin

Sounds like you are using 496-00. If so add 1 coat to all that I said.

[Astro4x4]

I sprayed Nason on mine and on the advice of a long time Dupont sprayer, I sprayed a tack coat, medium coat then heavy coat and it flowed out nicely.

[mrwhipper]

I sprayed Nason on mine and on the advice of a long time Dupont sprayer, I sprayed a tack coat, medium coat then heavy coat and it flowed out nicely.

I am not saying that that it won't turn out OK if you do it that way but there are factor that can cause it to fail in appearance or durability if you use a tack coat. Two factors are telegraphing texture from the tack coat if it starts to cross link before you put the other coats on, and te other is lack of film build. If there is not enough clear on your basecoat, it can start to degregate (sorry for the spelling). Trust me, DuPont and Nason finishes are not designed to be sprayed like that, but I am glad that it worked out for you.