Help with Replacing Front and Rear Brake Pads

[crazyaussie]

Can anyone give me a step by step tutorial on how to replace my front and rear brake pads or at least point me in the right direction? I don't want to buy a repair manual just yet, especially for something that should be as simple as changing the pads. Also, if anyone has any recommendations on which brake pads to get shoot them my way. Thanks.

[Black_peter]

Changing the pads is easy...

When are you planning to do it??
Writing the procedure could take a while.
Discribing it over the phone would be easy.

PM me

[Mojoe]

I don't understand why you would not want to buy a manual just yet. This is a perfect example of why you should have one.

Anyway....here is how you change them:

1) Remove the caliper.
2) Take a large screwdriver and insert the end between the pads and twist like a mofo to squeeze the piston into the claper.
3) remove old pads and install new ones.
4) replace calipers and pump brakes a few times until they grab.

Simple really.

[geek]

couple more tips:

- remove cover of brake fluid resivoir before pushing the pads back, might want to wrap it in rags to catch any over spill. Make sure it doesn't get on your paint. very corrosive stuff when it comes to paint.

- a c-clamp works wonders to squeeze the pads back into the calipers.

-check for leaks on the pistons, if any signs of leaks, they'll need to be rebuilt.

- clean them up by hosing down with brake cleaner, keep the stuff off your paint and tires.

[geek]

oh yeah, check out the sticky at the top of this forum by Trinc.

he's written up the procedure there to do the front pads.

[Black_peter]

Those are good guys..
I really couldn't add any more as 600 calipers are drasticly different then mine..

Since you have a 99 crazyaussie, you might want to think about the caliper rebuild..
New lines too.
Stainless steel lines are cheaper then OEMs I bet..

[ghelper]

I would say that as well as putting new pads on might be a good time to change the brake fluid as well if you have not done it in a while.

[Mojoe]

the added info these guys shared is all good info. i just didn't add it cuz....well.....i don't do it. My fluid was changed out the summer before last. I never remove the cap on the resevoir because it doesn't hurt anything if you don't. you don't have to shove the piston way back in the claliper.....just enuff space to get the pads over the rotor. a visual check is all i do for my lines and the cup on the piston.

what's that expression? "If it aint broke, don't fix it".

[crazyaussie]

Update: I've bought the pads and went to install them yesterday (with the help of my brother-in-law, who's more mechanically inclined than myself). Anyway, the problem we faced was we could not get the piston to retract enough to fit the new pads in. In fact, it didn't really move at all, maybe a couple millimeters. I did notice the reservoir was quite low on brake fluid...would this affect the ability of the piston to retract. My brother-in-law suggested I just take it to the shop, but I wanted to get your opinions first...it seems like such a straight-forward job if I could get the piston in. Do I need to replace my caliper?? I'm hoping not. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!

[Black_peter]

Sometimes it can be a bear..
But I don't think there are any tricks..(see below)
you may have some crusty build up on the pistons..
Try to carefuly work the pistons in and out.
Not too far out as you dont want to push them al the way out..
It may be time for a rebuild..

I once spent 2 hours trying to get the pistons to retract on the rear caliper of my car..
Only after all that time did I see the piston had slots cut in the face... I twisted the piston and it popped in I put that #$%$#% in a vise!!
one turn and it went in so easy it shot brake fluid 25 feet!

[trinc]

Update: I've bought the pads and went to install them yesterday (with the help of my brother-in-law, who's more mechanically inclined than myself). Anyway, the problem we faced was we could not get the piston to retract enough to fit the new pads in. In fact, it didn't really move at all, maybe a couple millimeters. I did notice the reservoir was quite low on brake fluid...would this affect the ability of the piston to retract. My brother-in-law suggested I just take it to the shop, but I wanted to get your opinions first...it seems like such a straight-forward job if I could get the piston in. Do I need to replace my caliper?? I'm hoping not. Any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks!

did you read my write-up ?

spray around the pistons with brake cleaner, remove the master cylinder cover and with the OLD PAD still in place put a C-clamp on the pad and tighten the clamp - it will push the pistons in !

i doubt there is a problem or your brakes would have been sticking. you can just get some debris built up - so cover up everything and give it a good spray. maybe even use a soft tooth brush.


the brake fluid level ; when you use your brake the piston pushes the pad onto the rotor - when you let off the brake the piston just releases the pressure on the pad - it DOESN'T full retract into the caliper. As the pad wears down the 'resting' place for the piston gets farther and farther out of the caliper. that creates more room behind the piston that is filled with brake fluid. so the level goes down. you should keep an eye on it & fill to the required level. this will create a problem when changing to new pads as when you try and push the piston back that 'extra' fluid will return to the master cylinder. thats why i wrote to watch the fluid level - don't let it spill over.

mojoe wrote that he doesn't remove his cover ? the brake fluid is a closed system - but there is a little air that will compress but i think it's better to remove the cover.

changing the fluid. i would do it with every pad change. don't drain it though. just use the bleeder screw, and just like your bleeding the brakes - drain & add fluid.


tim

[Black_peter]

mojoe wrote that he doesn't remove his cover ? the brake fluid is a closed system - but there is a little air that will compress but i think it's better to remove the cover.

tim

Good tips Tim..

On removing the MC cover..
The rubber cap is supposed to suck into the MC as fluid is used.
It will push back as fluid goes back in, and I have yet ro have a MC
over flow.. but better safe than sorry (like a cracked plastic MC)...

[trinc]

mojoe wrote that he doesn't remove his cover ? the brake fluid is a closed system - but there is a little air that will compress but i think it's better to remove the cover.

tim

Good tips Tim..

On removing the MC cover..
The rubber cap is supposed to suck into the MC as fluid is used.
It will push back as fluid goes back in, and I have yet ro have a MC
over flow.. but better safe than sorry (like a cracked plastic MC)...

funny thing is ( well.. not really ) i just had to drill & tap one of my MC cover screws

i needed to add a little fluid + check the bleed 'cause my brakes had gotten a little soft. i really like stiff brakes - so i'm always flushing in new fluid & making sure there is no air in the system.


a small side note. the way the master cylinder sits on the right lever assembly is parallel to the ground - in stock form. imo this is a bad position for most people and adds to fatigue and wrist problems. the brake lever is just to high. i have mine rotated down so when i cover the brake my wrist is inline with my forearm. this causes the MC to now be at an angle so will spill very easily since the fluid is higher in the rear.


tim

[Mojoe]

mojoe wrote that he doesn't remove his cover ? the brake fluid is a closed system - but there is a little air that will compress but i think it's better to remove the cover.

tim

Good tips Tim..

On removing the MC cover..
The rubber cap is supposed to suck into the MC as fluid is used.
It will push back as fluid goes back in, and I have yet ro have a MC
over flow.. but better safe than sorry (like a cracked plastic MC)...

I am not saying he should not remove the cover. I just said that I don't. The reason behind it is that I did it once....just once, and when compressing the piston, I had the same situation as you did when you shot fluid 25ft. The piston resisted going in, then whoosh...all in one shot. It didn't shoot fluid 25ft with me, but did flop a big glob of fluid onto my tank and fairing. That was the last time I ever removed it. Mind you, after the brakes are installed, I do remove the cap to check that the cup is ok.
It's the same thing I do with my cage.

[trinc]

good point mojoe. i've never had a piston stick or i'm sure i'd be doing just as you do.

tim