Hi guys, I've been searching the forum and googling the web, and following the suggestions I've found, and referring to the factory service manual, and so far nothing has fixed my problem.
I've got a 2006 Katana 600 that I bought last year that only had 1831 miles on it. Wasn't running and had some carb issues. Tackled the carbs last fall and ran into some problems with them. Bought a pretty clean used set off of ebay. Replaced the float needles and seats and the bike ran great but had no power over about 4000 or 5000 rpm. Cleaned the carbs with carb spray, took out and cleaned all the jets, still wouldn't rev over about 5,000 rpm. Clean the carbs in Chem Dip, at least 12 hours per body, rinsed, blew them out with compressed air, adjusted the floats to 13mm (were set to 14.6 mm when I got them), runs a little better but still won't rev over about 6000 rpm.
If I give it full throttle it acts likes it is out of gas and starts to slow down. Let off the throttle and it's running again. Has good power until a little over 5000 rpm, and on the highway I can coax it gradually up to about 6,000. Sometimes a little more. Seems to run better first thing in the morning before it's fully warmed up. But, warmed up in neutral it'll rev up to 9 or 10K rpm, which is about as far as I'm willing to rev it with no load.
One more thing. I'm only getting 30 mpg. That's from the last two tanks, 180 total miles.
So far I have:
Checked the valve adjustment. Just had a few tight ones. All good now.
Replaced the fuel filter, then ran it without the fuel filter, then drained the tank into a gas can and the fuel is flowing pretty good out of the tank.
Double checked the fuel lines for kinks.
Replaced the spark plugs. Checked the gap.
Tested the coils, primary and secondary ohms and peak voltage: everything good there.
Tested the signal generator, ohms and peak voltage: everything good there.
Replaced the CDI with a used one off of ebay, no change.
Tested the tps, at WOT it's more like 1500 ohms instead of 3800 ohms. Unplugged the tps, no change. I have two tps's (one came with the used carbs I bought), and both test the same. Way under 3800 ohms at WOT and unable to be set to the correct resistance.
I am hoping someone can point me in some direction, maybe see something I'm overlooking. Here are my thoughts:
1. Maybe the CDI I bought off ebay has the same failure as my original one? Anyone near Tulsa, OK have a known good CDI I could try? Or have a good running Katana I could put one of my CDI's on to test it?
2. Is it the TPS? I've seen folks who say the bike will run crappy without it and folks who say it doesn't do a thing. There is a post from Astro4x4 where he had the same issue with his tps not being able to be adjusted correctly. He says he replaced the tps and solved his problem, but doesn't say what his problem was, other than the tps readings.
3. I tested the signal generator at the plug on frame, not at the CDI connector. Probably the next thing I need to check, since the manual says to check it in both places to eliminate an issue with the wiring harness.
3. It's a clean low-mileage bike and the air filter looks good on the outside and I haven't replaced it yet.
4. How about mud dobber nests or dead rodents in the muffler? This bike has spent a lot of time sitting in a garage.
To recap: Right now the bike has a little over 2200 miles on it, starts great, runs great until about 5 or 6K rpm, then stutter's and stumbles. Rev's fine in neutral. Only getting 30 mpg.
I've got a 2006 Katana 600 that I bought last year that only had 1831 miles on it. Wasn't running and had some carb issues. Tackled the carbs last fall and ran into some problems with them. Bought a pretty clean used set off of ebay. Replaced the float needles and seats and the bike ran great but had no power over about 4000 or 5000 rpm. Cleaned the carbs with carb spray, took out and cleaned all the jets, still wouldn't rev over about 5,000 rpm. Clean the carbs in Chem Dip, at least 12 hours per body, rinsed, blew them out with compressed air, adjusted the floats to 13mm (were set to 14.6 mm when I got them), runs a little better but still won't rev over about 6000 rpm.
If I give it full throttle it acts likes it is out of gas and starts to slow down. Let off the throttle and it's running again. Has good power until a little over 5000 rpm, and on the highway I can coax it gradually up to about 6,000. Sometimes a little more. Seems to run better first thing in the morning before it's fully warmed up. But, warmed up in neutral it'll rev up to 9 or 10K rpm, which is about as far as I'm willing to rev it with no load.
One more thing. I'm only getting 30 mpg. That's from the last two tanks, 180 total miles.
So far I have:
Checked the valve adjustment. Just had a few tight ones. All good now.
Replaced the fuel filter, then ran it without the fuel filter, then drained the tank into a gas can and the fuel is flowing pretty good out of the tank.
Double checked the fuel lines for kinks.
Replaced the spark plugs. Checked the gap.
Tested the coils, primary and secondary ohms and peak voltage: everything good there.
Tested the signal generator, ohms and peak voltage: everything good there.
Replaced the CDI with a used one off of ebay, no change.
Tested the tps, at WOT it's more like 1500 ohms instead of 3800 ohms. Unplugged the tps, no change. I have two tps's (one came with the used carbs I bought), and both test the same. Way under 3800 ohms at WOT and unable to be set to the correct resistance.
I am hoping someone can point me in some direction, maybe see something I'm overlooking. Here are my thoughts:
1. Maybe the CDI I bought off ebay has the same failure as my original one? Anyone near Tulsa, OK have a known good CDI I could try? Or have a good running Katana I could put one of my CDI's on to test it?
2. Is it the TPS? I've seen folks who say the bike will run crappy without it and folks who say it doesn't do a thing. There is a post from Astro4x4 where he had the same issue with his tps not being able to be adjusted correctly. He says he replaced the tps and solved his problem, but doesn't say what his problem was, other than the tps readings.
3. I tested the signal generator at the plug on frame, not at the CDI connector. Probably the next thing I need to check, since the manual says to check it in both places to eliminate an issue with the wiring harness.
3. It's a clean low-mileage bike and the air filter looks good on the outside and I haven't replaced it yet.
4. How about mud dobber nests or dead rodents in the muffler? This bike has spent a lot of time sitting in a garage.
To recap: Right now the bike has a little over 2200 miles on it, starts great, runs great until about 5 or 6K rpm, then stutter's and stumbles. Rev's fine in neutral. Only getting 30 mpg.
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