well according to the USPS track and confirm, you piston/seal set was processed and left Richmond this evening so you will likely get it tomorrow.
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Originally posted by arsenic1016 View Postwell according to the USPS track and confirm, you piston/seal set was processed and left Richmond this evening so you will likely get it tomorrow.
A potential gotcha on the new bolts.....check my thread
Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
From the first oil change to completely rebuilding the engine,
this is the place to talk about the heart of the beast!
The 2mm shorter deal doesn't do the trick on the lower and upper shock bolts or the cushion lever to frame bolt. With the addition of washers on both side, plus the nylon insert nut is wider than the stock flanged nut.
Just a heads up, hopefully you won't run into that.
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Okay, ctandc is correct. With the washers 50 and 60 mm are not long enough. I have 65 and 55mm bolts on order. with the M14x1.5-120mm bolts. I'm not going to use washers on them. They have the dog bones directly inside the head, so the dog bones act as a washer. Plus if I use washers, 120mm is too short, and 120mm is the longest offered. I will take pictures and post a final chart when everything is set in stone. Until then, this is a work in progress, in theory everything should work, until I know it does, it just in theory. Picture of the 120mm bolt posted side by side with the OEM. All pictures addedLast edited by arsenic; 01-26-2008, 02:52 AM.
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Pre 98 750 Bolts
Bolts
2x M12x1.25-52mm Item 6349
2x M10x1.25-52mm Item 6315
1x M14x1.50-62mm Item 7270
1x M12x1.25-96mm Item 6356
Nuts
3x M12x1.25 Item 6893
2x M10x1.25 Item 6890
1x M14x1.50 Item 6894
Washers
4x M10 Item 7743
6x M12 Item 7744
2x M14 Item 7745
For clarity, ctandc, put this in here for the item numbers so people can order them online. I wasn't trying to step on your toes. These work for Pre 98 750 AND 600, like you previously stated.
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Originally posted by Gytrdunkat View PostPre 98 750 Bolts
Bolts
2x M12x1.25-52mm Item 6349
2x M10x1.25-52mm Item 6315
1x M14x1.50-62mm Item 7270
1x M12x1.25-96mm Item 6356
Nuts
3x M12x1.25 Item 6893
2x M10x1.25 Item 6890
1x M14x1.50 Item 6894
Washers
4x M10 Item 7743
6x M12 Item 7744
2x M14 Item 7745
For clarity, ctandc, put this in here for the item numbers so people can order them online. I wasn't trying to step on your toes. These work for Pre 98 750 AND 600, like you previously stated.
I would have ordered the same bolts, but I was in a hurry to get the bike back together....and since the bolts don't thread into anything but the nut on the other end, the thread pitch, IMHO, wasn't a deal breaker.
More info is usually a good thing.
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uuummm... there are a few few advantages.
1. grade 8 bolts will not corrode like the OEM bolts will.
2. nylock nuts will not back out at all, torque them to what they go to, and thats it.
That being said, is it a must to switch the bolts? Absolutely not, when you're anal about EVERYTHING like I am, it's a good ider.
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All this started actually as a result of the Ohlins shocks for the Katanas -- they required longer-than-stock bolts, which made me examine the stock bolts and come up the conclusion that the stock solution isn't an ideal one to begin with...
added: Ohlin's tech-reps repeated the same thing back to me as well -- the OEM bolts come from the factory too tight on most bikes, not permitting the dogbones & shock mounting locations to rotate freely as the rear suspension extends/contracts, and thus limiting movement and suspension effectiveness. Once I examined exactly what he was talking about, I realized that the binding effect of the interference nut used with the stock bolt meant that it had to be a specific tightness (a bit more than ideal) for the interference aspect to work; replacing the bolt with a longer bolt permitted use of a nylock-based nut solution that allowed a bit less pressure at the mounting interface (basically the spec called for in the factory manual or perhaps 10% less) without concern that the nut would come undone. This in turn, permitted the rear end to move more freely, allowing the shock to do it's job more accurately.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetLast edited by The CyberPoet; 01-25-2008, 09:06 AM.
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Yeah, what CP and arsenic said, and it's just pretty!
You know, down adjusting your chain, or cleaning your swing arm.... you notice those nice shiny bolts... It reminds you of how intimate you are...
Never mind.
Originally posted by ctandc View PostNot stepping on my toes.
I would have ordered the same bolts, but I was in a hurry to get the bike back together....and since the bolts don't thread into anything but the nut on the other end, the thread pitch, IMHO, wasn't a deal breaker.
More info is usually a good thing.
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Originally posted by LAsunbird86 View PostI must be crazy....I cant figure out what advantage you can have by changing out bolts??
I cleaned and painted all other components when I yanked the swingarm. And there were these ratty bolts.
Not to mention that my sockets must be harder than the 16 year old bolts on my bike, as several of them got chewed up removing them.
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Why was arsenic banned? It's all a big mystery it seems. He seemed to know alot...For sale thread Album
1991 Katana 600 - sold
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Originally posted by Islandsteve View PostWhy was arsenic banned? It's all a big mystery it seems. He seemed to know alot...
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Ah, thanks. Seems like it was an epic banning over numerous epic fails. I gues I'll never know...For sale thread Album
1991 Katana 600 - sold
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Thanks for the info, it will save a lot of time for me when mine comes off! Soon I just had the forks apart last week!http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110816
1994 GSX750F Katana with:
Michelin Pilot Road 2's, 120/70, 150/70,
Race Tech 1.0kg springs with 25mm preload,
R6 rear shock w/14.3kg Eibach spring,
1" Soupys bar risers, Zero Gravity windshield,
RK GXW Gold Chain, My own fender eliminator,
3BBB turn signal mirrors,
Black painted seat and rear trim,
Nelson-Rigg CL-135, CL-150, CL-950.
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