Valve inspection/adjustment

[nimblekat]

How important is it to have a valve adjustment at 7500 miles or ist ok to wait until 15000 miles, I am a rider that never gets above 60 mph and even shifting gears I dont get above 6000 rpm. As you can tell I don't push my bike very hard. I just bought the bike a 2002 Katana 600 with 9000 miles and changed plugs after I bought it. The Plugs looked perfect, & the bike starts & runs great but I don't think the last owner had that 7500 mile valve inspection.
I am looking thoughts on this issue.

[reconstyle]

I bought my bike brand new in 05 I had the 600 miles service done by the dealer, then I was doing some work on the bike one day at about 6800 miles and decided to check the valves, and they did need some minor adjustments. I did follow the break in period, for the most part, but yes, they did need some minor adjustments.

Its not too difficlut of a job to do yourself, all you need is that tappet tool which I got from cyberpoet, and a manual which you can down load from here.

-Sean

[steves]

Yes do it. A search should bring up about 1000 reasons why.

[Bigbody45]

where do you get the tap and the manual from

[starspan]

Well, you can get the valve tappet tool from CP:
http://www.katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=17251[/url]

You can download the manual here:

http://katriders.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13439&highlight=manual

[The CyberPoet]

Since it's a used bike, you have no clue whether the previous owner ever had the service done. As a result, it would be very wise for you to check it. If you've used a feeler gauge in the past & know how to use one, it's a simple thing to do (getting the fairings & tank out of the way is the time-consuming part).
If you've never used a feeler gauge before, find someone who has and ask them to give you a hand or to teach you how to use a feeler gauge correctly (it's very difficult to describe on paper, but simple to say "feel this verses this") -- older males are usually a great boon in this, as feeler gauges were common in setting car's ignition points back when cars still used points (my rally cars in Europe had them, and I could swap & set a set of bad points in under a minute).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[tnvatdreamland]

-- older males are usually a great boon in this, as feeler gauges were common in setting car's ignition points back when cars still used points (my rally cars in Europe had them, and I could swap & set a set of bad points in under a minute).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

Cyber...we are showing our age! Stop.......doing that! JK
But with that age comes the wisdom.

[reconstyle]

I just follow the rule: If the next size up fits, then the gap is too big.

But then again I'm a youngin'

[GytRDunKat]

I would say do it. I did mine when I got my bike (12k miles) and they were off a bit. I'm not a mechanic at all and got through this process just fine, it seems difficult when you read how to do it, but it's not that bad at all once you get into it. CP is right about the "feeling", it's hard to put down on paper.

[tnvatdreamland]

CP is right about the "feeling", it's hard to put down on paper.

Just remember to emory cloth off any rust you may have on those gauges.

[The CyberPoet]

Just remember to emory cloth off any rust you may have on those gauges.

My personal opinion is that you simply trash any rusted feeler gauges (and learn to spray your next set down with oil after each use). At $4 to $8 a set, it's cheap enough to be feasible.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[squiggy]

This photo shows absolute worst case scenario for a valve with improper valve gap...meaning NONE.

Live and learn.

It's not hard to do the actual valve check/adjustment. But it's time consuming because of all the stuff that needs to be removed to get to the valve cover.

[Katlover13]

Just remember to emory cloth off any rust you may have on those gauges.

My personal opinion is that you simply trash any rusted feeler gauges (and learn to spray your next set down with oil after each use). At $4 to $8 a set, it's cheap enough to be feasible.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

+1 on that....
using emory on them will eventually change the thickness.
I just tossed a set that my father gave me 30 years ago.... they were his, prolly 50+ years old! They sat in the toolbox for years (without a need for them till the Kat...) and rusted away.


and YES, do the adjustment!! as mentioned, the hardest part is just getting to them... removing the fairings, tank, plugs, coils. Not hard to do by any means, just alot of stuff to get out of the way.

[nimblekat]

When doing the valve inspection/ adjustment did you have to take off the 1. side fairings?
2. the cables going over the top of the valve cover?
3. If the fairings are left on is there enough room to see the marks on the cams?
4. At reassemble time is there a gasket between the cover & the head & does it have to be replaced?
5. It also looks like there might be some valve cover sealer?

I work with Sprintcar team & this is what we have to with that engine after a couple nights racing.

[Steveb]

I finished doing a valve adjustment ten minutes ago.
*Disclaimer* Bike is currently undergoing a very slow "going through", and not being ridden.

1-2. Side fairing and lower must be removed, as well as the cross brace. I still couldn't see the markings for the intake cam, but no matter. I did one cylinder at a time, and just kept turning over the crank to get the cam onto it's base circle at the valve pair I wanted to adjust. Olde school, I guess. One through four, exhaust then intake....so I don't miss any.
No idea of course when they were done last, this bike has had some serious neglect. First exhaust valve I checked was .05mm instead of .15mm.

3. I'd imagine the cable would also be in the way of the cover getting out of the way, so disconnect them as well.

4. Between the valve cover and the head is a very pliable, reusable seal. It's also not cheap, my local CDN dealer quoted $38 for an aftermarket replacement. There's really no pressure up there, just a lot of splashing around. I'm going to replace the O rings at the oil lines, though...because there IS pressure there. You'll also be popping off the timing cover, right side, to be able to rotate the crank. I picked up a gasket for that, since there wasn't one in place when I pulled it the first time, just some RTV.

Make sure you pull the plugs out as well, to make turning it over easier.

5. Manual calls for some RTV at the cam cutouts on the seal.

6. Get the Suzuki tool. I paid $8 at the dealer.