Winter projects

[philwecksr]

So, I get bored really easy and the winter is worst for it. In the summer I can just go for a ride to pass the time, but in the winter, well, i don't like snow. I'm assembling a list of things to do to the Kat over the winter and am looking for input on it.

Right now I'm in so far as:

Clean/rebuild:

calipers
master cylinder
carbs
forks

Now the question arises, am I missing anything that isn't so far as a teardown and rebuild of the engine? Is that a feasable project, even if just a top end rebuild? I can't really think of anything I could gain from tearing the engine apart, aside from making sure springs and stuff are in spec. Its only a 2003 600, but i need something to do while cooped up in a house.

I guess it boils down to:

1) what else should be added to the list?

2) Is there any benefit to a partial/complete engine rebuild?

[Black_peter]

Do your self a favor and look into a GSXR master cylinder. IMO a good upgrade...
Since you have calipers and MC on the list what about braided lines?

You could also break down and lube the swing arm.
Tear down/clean rear wheel (check cush drive)
Clean lube all electrical connections

[philwecksr]

The key was to keep it as low cost as possible. Gonna look into a gsxr master cylinder. And the brake lines are hopefully an xmas gift.....lol

[Mojoe]

well if you start tearing into the engine, plan on $100 or so just for gaskets.
One thing you can do if you have a dremel (or equivelent) is to port and polish the head. it is quite easy to do. It will make your engine "breath" much smoother.
I would go with just that for now, and it only requires new head cover/ head gaskets.

[Black_peter]

Gonna look into a gsxr master cylinder.

Ebay.. $35 for the MC and clutch with levers..
The clutch is a higher end item too..

[The CyberPoet]

'03 Kat 600?

Given you've already done the above stuff, if you have the time:

At the bottom of the shock (lower mount attaches to it) is a three-hole pivot mechanism that supports the shock and the dogbones. Disassemble the bolts on it (brace the swingarm to keep it from slamming down, esp. if the tire is off), and pull out the metal tubes that fit between the bolt and the bearings. Now clean the metal tubes very carefully (remove any oxidation, etc), repack the bearings (in place) with fresh marine-grade automotive grease (about $8 a tube at most auto parts stores, at least in my area), and coat the non-bearing contact portions of the tube with high-temp anti-seize. Then reassemble, making sure to rotate the tubes so they aren't resting in the same spot as before (evident by the wear marks/discoloration before coating). I'm always surprized at how quickly these particular tubes get surface corrosion & wear -- and what it means for the suspension bearings.

Also:
Remove, inspect, repack, reseat and retorque to spec the steering stem bearings (upper and lower) with the same grease. If you find any notchiness, replace them with All Balls brand replacements (I believe they offer needle bearings for the steering replacements, which are much more effective and durable than ball-bearing style systems).

More?
If you've never had your oil pan off, this is a good time to drop it and clean it out of all the metal bits that are sitting in the honeycomb patterns at the bottom -- they come to rest in locations where they'll never move out the drain normally. Consider this a good time to install functional niceties, such as a Fumoto oil drain valve, and/or an oil temp gauge & sender.

Still more?
Yank your exhaust header bolts and slather them down with high-temp antiseize, so in years to come you won't have an issue removing them.

If you have an aftermarket exhaust can, repack it (every other year normally). Batting should run $15 - $25, depending on consistency and material used -- I suggest you check what's already in there before purchasing to make sure you get the same kind (fiberglass matt, stainless steel wool, etc).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[SlipKid]

If it's an '03, there's probably not much call to do the things you are considering. Unless there's a problem, I'd recommend reading a book or something...:P Realistically though, if you need something to keep busy, an older Kat can be had for cheap, and they usually need lots of love.

[md86]

Get a new shock (somthing stiffer with more adjustability) , and shim the fork spacers . I'd avoid all that engine crap . Waste of time if there's no problems , really . If it ain't broke , don't BREAK it .

[AMorgan]

Wow, this has become almost an information post. I plan to rebuild my calipers (the fronts rub, but I only get about a month or so more of running, so I'll hit them in the offseason) do a Protech front end on it, and winterize it. Money permitting, i'm going with SS lines, powdercoated rims, POSSIBLY powdercoating the frame and replacing the broken plastics and painting the bike. If I get it all done she should be a looker next season.

[rotary13b]

+1 SlipKid. Its an 03. Your calipers need a good clean up and some slider grease. I would spend my money on better pads, fresh brake fluid or SS lines.
As to your forks I would replace the oil.
Your engine depending on bikes milleage may only need a valve adjustment and a good tune up: oil/filter change, spark plugs, air and fuel filters, adjust and synchronize your carbs)

[rotary13b]

+1 SlipKid. Its an 03. Your calipers need a good clean up and some slider grease. I would spend my money on better pads, fresh brake fluid or SS lines.
As to your forks I would replace the oil.
Your engine depending on bikes milleage may only need a valve adjustment and a good tune up: oil/filter change, spark plugs, air and fuel filters, adjust and synchronize your carbs)

[DooD]

CP forgot one of his own mods - removal of the welds inside the header, for slightly better flow. Clean those horrible factory welds up with a dremel, until they're smooth and don't restrict airflow. Won't cost you a thing!

As for brake pads, I can vouch for Galfer's "green" compound pads - they're an organic GG compound pad which offer great bite and awesome power when compared to the stock compound. I've had the opportunity to run these on the street and at the track - they're absolutely incredible!

[The CyberPoet]

Money permitting, i'm going with... POSSIBLY powdercoating the frame.

The frame came from the factory powder-coated. Unless you've damaged or modified it in some way (or want a different color), there's no reason to recoat what's already there and effective.

CP forgot one of his own mods - removal of the welds inside the header, for slightly better flow. Clean those horrible factory welds up with a dremel, until they're smooth and don't restrict airflow. Won't cost you a thing!

Here's the how-to:

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/katana/header.html

As for brake pads, I can vouch for Galfer's "green" compound pads - they're an organic GG compound pad which offer great bite and awesome power when compared to the stock compound. I've had the opportunity to run these on the street and at the track - they're absolutely incredible!

I will specifically recommend that you do NOT run organics on a Kat with the OEM-spec (SS) rotors & OEM calipers, but use a sintered brake pad in either GG or HH compounds (search KR for more details on the differences -- GG is the stock compound friction rate, HH is a grabbier compound but causes the brakes to run hotter which can be problematic if your routes are a ton of down-hills or other events which has you on the brakes a whole lot more than standard). The design of the rotor system on the 88+ Kats is manufactured for sintered pads & to keep them at the right optimal temp for stopping in all weather -- organics in general are designed to be used on rotors that permit the pad to back away from the rotor (instead of skimming it lightly) when not in use.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[AMorgan]

CP, my frame is a little... worse for wear. The previous owner pretty much didn't care if the bike looked like a rolling turd, as long as he looks hillbilly good on top of it. As such, it's pretty nasty looking. I was going to strip it and take the frame and swingarm to silver powdercoat.