[utah-kat]

longer brake hose

I've done the same thing using Bandit handlebar clamps and dirt bike style handle bar - not a Renthal though. I routed all cables to behind the folks, everything works fine for me, including the throttle cables. I then went to a local hose store and had them make me a loger brake hose. If you take the original brake hose to show them, they can make one while you wait. The store I went to they use BrakeQuip equipment and parts. I end up paid $25 for the 16-in brake hose. Have fun and good luck with your project.

[jetmerritt]

In progress

Ok, so brackets are from a Suzuki RM-250 vintage 1978. Bars, Renthal off of a CR I think, but they may not have been factory?

Awesome perks, I am using the original bar mounting holes to make the machining costs $0. Problem, Key is extremely tight for clearance and I may have to raise the bike a mm or two on front ride heighth in order to fit the way I am going.

1. had to make hex holes round on brackets for Allen screws to fit

2. Had to buff bolts a little to help as well.

3. First real mock up, might want to narrow them a little?

4. They are not quite tightened down and they are touching the fork cap. No big deal like I said, 1 or 2mm max. I might try to find a hard washer to fit under brackets for that extra mm.

Ignition key, very close! Touches during installation but works...


I am going to figure my brake hose out and get some specs, then go back to stock until I get it and clean up all the parts pretty like.
I'm so excited. And at $40, thrifty too!

[Wild-Bill]

Either add washers or lower the forks through the triple clamps. Washers are probably a better solution though since they'll help give some clearance for the key, too.

[jetmerritt]

Ok, I got all the measurements done with a rough mock up and I think a 400mm brake hose from bolt to bolt with dual 22.5* opposing offsets should be the ticket!

I am going to replace the bolts with allen cap screws to neaten them up on the brackets, they look a little dated and chewed up.

But I don't know what to do for the bars and brackets. I am thinking of satin blacking them so they don't stand out too much. They just kind of leap out at your eyes being big and silver. Think I might remove the brace too considering I won't be getting much air on the Kat.

Also don't know what to do about the bar end weights. I was thinking of trying to fill the ends with weld from an aluminum spool gun, then drilling and tapping them out to m6X1.0 or whatever the ends are. Any other suggestions?

So I guess that's it until I get my new brake hose... Stay tuned

Oh, and I am happy I am going this route because I can always switch bars if I don't like the geometry, easy fix. What I got was what the guy had on the shelf.

[Wild-Bill]

Instead of bar ends try just filling the bars with loose lead shot and just putting some plastic caps on the ends. The shot soaks up all kinds of vibration and you may be able to get away without the bar ends.

[jetmerritt]

Well, I got some spacer washers and got all my parts painted shiny!



Changed out the bolts for allen heads too...

[cintidude04]

Very nice brother, I may look into this someday as well.

[jetmerritt]

Had to leave town for a few days and it turns out, I am heading out for a few more days this week, but I got my custom ordered brake hose. It is DOT approved, pressure tested and purdy! I have to pay for it yet, the guy at the parts store couldn't find it on their computer system so I'll do that today.

I got it through Lordco Auto Parts and they ordered it as per my specifications through Greenline Hose, so I am glad I can get these things built locally and not go through an american company and wait 2-3 weeks for it. If the price is good I am going to pull the rest of the hoses off the Kat and get them copied to SS and they will all be done. My '06 is due, or overdue for hoses according to the manual anyway. I noticed the front brake lever doesn't seem as solid as it used to be as well.

I am going to try to get the new bars on today and get some pics up, but I have one last problem, I am not sure whether I will be able to get my grip and heater off the left bar. The right is easy because it is on the throttle tube, but the left was epoxied on to the bare bar, so I may have to buy another set of grips and heaters...

[jetmerritt]

Finished...

Finished! And I was able to carefully peel the factory grip off and I cranked up the hand warmers and managed to peel it off as well. I am not sure what to do with the ends of the bars yet, I am going to test fly it and see how I like it, then I was thinking of making some custom bar ends that will thread into whatever size I can tap out the renthal bars to.

To add, the renthal left hand side of the bar is knurled. I used epoxy under the hand warmer element and I hope that will slow the heat transfer down and keep my left hand warmer. On the smooth suzuki steel bar, it took forever to warm up the left side and the throttle hand was burning. We will see.

[bob393]

Nice work!

[BareKat]

Looks great.. bars look a little wide though.

I swap MX bars for Suzuki SV1000 stock bars and they are perfect on my 750

[nkir6674]

Hate to jump in and ask the same things but, Is it my understanding that u can put a 98-06, 750 triple tree on a 600 and get a 2inch rise? I want risers but dont wanna spend alot of money for just a 1inch or so.

[joedan]

looks good. that's pretty much the same thing i did, i got some risers off a hd and wrapped some rubber around the bars to make it fit and hopefully kill some vibrations.

[jetmerritt]

Long-term update

Long-term update. I rode 500Km today.

I love my new bars, they are comfy and the steering is great. BUT!

The levers hit the mirrors when turning at full lock, apparently I do that more than I thought... It's annoying.

I can't see out of my mirrors, unless of course I am looking to check my elbow condition. A flick of the elbow remedies this.

VIBES!!! wow, buzzy bars. Especially at the revs I like to ride.

Took Wild-Bill's advice... That didn't help. I tapped out the bar ends to receive 3/8"? pipe plugs and filled the bars with lead shot, full, not packed, but full. Didn't do hardly any good.

Next I will try to modify my bar end plugs or something to accept M6X1.0 threads and put my bar weights back on.

Other than that, I love the mod I did. I would love to do the back up camera mod and eliminate my mirrors one day, that would fix that problem!

[BareKat]

Like I noted earlier... I used sv1000 bars which are the same as the 1200 Bandit bars. The good thing about using suzuki bars is they already have the mounting holes for the switch gear and factory bar end weights.