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Hey there guys.... first off, can a Mod go ahead and approve and move this to the DIY "Sticky" section? ... as I searched before and couldn't find a Tail chop DIY for a Pre-98 600 Kat, as there are differences between the 750 and 600.
Title: Pre-98 Katana 600 Tail Plastic/Shovel Removal DIY
By: Scott (RedKat91)
Total cost to do this modification: $15.
Before:
After:
To do this you'll need:
1. Wire strippers/crimpers
2. Black electrical tape
3. Screw driver/drill/various drill bits/socket set/and adjustable wrench
4. Metal for the new plate mount.... I used different Pre-angled stainless steel plates from Home Depot, they are SUPER strong and already in the shapes I needed, I just had to cut holes for the screws and turn signals to go through. (this only cost me a total of about $10, including the metal brackets, new nuts, bolts, washers, and lock washers)
5. Light souce for the plate (I chose to pay the $5 on ebay for new LED plate lights that bolt directly to the plate... so I didn't need a huge overhead plate light)
Instructions:
1. Disassembly: Begin by removing the seat and rear fairings from the bike. Then remove the 4 bolts that hold the passenger grab bar in place and take it off. Remove the 2 screws that hold the seat lock in place and pull off the rear seat.
2. Identifying the wiring: Once you've removed the rear seat you'll see all the wiring for the turn signals and tail light zip tied up underneith the rear seat. Use something to mark off which wires are which (I chose to use tape that I wrote on with permanent marker), and then unplug the turn signals and the rear plate light.
3. Choping off the plastic: Begin by first removing the 3 screws that hold the tail light to the metal frame bar and lift the tail light up and out of the way (we need to get the thick metal frame bar off in order to chop the plastic.)
Now remove the 2 bolts on each side under the seat that hold the metal frame bar in place that holds the plastic shovel sturdy. Remove while your there (if you havn't done so already) the license plate and any other small things attached to the plastic shovel piece. Pull the metal frame piece out and discard, as we will not be reusing it. Put the 2 bolts from each side back in place to re-secure the plastic undertail. If you've noticed at this time, you no longer can screw the 3 screws back in that held the back light in place since we removed the frame mount.... easy fix, 3 locking washers and nuts on the underside will hold it perfectly.
**sorry no pic for this, but you'll see what I mean when you're under there.**
Now undo the turn signals from the plastic shovel by loosening the nut that holds them on the backside. Since you've already disconnected and marked your turn signals you can now pull them down and off of the plastic shovel and set them aside.
Now it's time to chop off that horrible shovel piece... if you look there is a perfect groove that already gives you a straight line to cut on. I used my highspeed dremel with a cutoff wheel to accomplish this, but you can also use a small hacksaw blade as well, or a heated stanley knife. Cut the shovel completely off, and then go back and clean up your cut marks. No turning back now!
I took this time to put my fairings back on to check to make sure that none of the original plastic shovel piece could be seen... and I was so excited by how much better the bike is looking without that stupid thing on there... 100000000% better already!
Before the shovel came off -
After the removed shovel -
4. Bracket Creation: Now... you can choose to remount your license plate and turn signals however you'd like (whether you remount the plate under the seat, or off the rear hub in a custom style, and whether you use new LED turn signals, or go with flush mounts) I chose to keep the stock turn signals and use the 2 factory bolt mounts to mount up my plate. I went to Home depot and near their hardware section you'll find the following metal brackets.... (here you see me mocking up a plate mount)
Once you're satisfied with your plate mount, and you know it'll work, Go ahead and paint all the pieces if you wish. (if you havn't already done so... make sure to cut your holes out needed to remount your turn signals if you are going to re-use them). Don't mind all the extra holes in my upper plate bracket, they came pre-drilled like that on that piece of metal I bought and almost all get covered.
If you wish at this time, give yourself a test fit to make sure it'll all go together how you are hoping before taking the time to secure it all up under the bike.
5. Reinstallation: Now comes the easy part, bolt up your new plate mount, and bolt up your turn signals (I found that using a washer between the turn signal and the plate mount on the outside made for a super secure fit), and your plate lights (if you are using ones like I did). Feed the wires back up through the factory wire hole under the rear seat, and plug your wires back in. (which is easy to remember which wire goes where ... since you marked them back in Step 2.) Snug up all your bolts and check to make sure all the lights and turn signals work before putting the fairings and seat back on.
Completed undertail: Step back, admire, and ask yourself... "arn't I glad I did this myself for $15 vs. paying over 100$ for one online".
Total Time Spent - 1 hour for disassembly and reassembly. 1 hour for gathering materials. 2 hours for painting and curing time. 1 hour for measuring and drilling the holes in the steel and grinding them smooth. = 5hrs total.
Total Cost - $15
Title: Pre-98 Katana 600 Tail Plastic/Shovel Removal DIY
By: Scott (RedKat91)
Total cost to do this modification: $15.
Before:
After:
To do this you'll need:
1. Wire strippers/crimpers
2. Black electrical tape
3. Screw driver/drill/various drill bits/socket set/and adjustable wrench
4. Metal for the new plate mount.... I used different Pre-angled stainless steel plates from Home Depot, they are SUPER strong and already in the shapes I needed, I just had to cut holes for the screws and turn signals to go through. (this only cost me a total of about $10, including the metal brackets, new nuts, bolts, washers, and lock washers)
5. Light souce for the plate (I chose to pay the $5 on ebay for new LED plate lights that bolt directly to the plate... so I didn't need a huge overhead plate light)
Instructions:
1. Disassembly: Begin by removing the seat and rear fairings from the bike. Then remove the 4 bolts that hold the passenger grab bar in place and take it off. Remove the 2 screws that hold the seat lock in place and pull off the rear seat.
2. Identifying the wiring: Once you've removed the rear seat you'll see all the wiring for the turn signals and tail light zip tied up underneith the rear seat. Use something to mark off which wires are which (I chose to use tape that I wrote on with permanent marker), and then unplug the turn signals and the rear plate light.
3. Choping off the plastic: Begin by first removing the 3 screws that hold the tail light to the metal frame bar and lift the tail light up and out of the way (we need to get the thick metal frame bar off in order to chop the plastic.)
Now remove the 2 bolts on each side under the seat that hold the metal frame bar in place that holds the plastic shovel sturdy. Remove while your there (if you havn't done so already) the license plate and any other small things attached to the plastic shovel piece. Pull the metal frame piece out and discard, as we will not be reusing it. Put the 2 bolts from each side back in place to re-secure the plastic undertail. If you've noticed at this time, you no longer can screw the 3 screws back in that held the back light in place since we removed the frame mount.... easy fix, 3 locking washers and nuts on the underside will hold it perfectly.
**sorry no pic for this, but you'll see what I mean when you're under there.**
Now undo the turn signals from the plastic shovel by loosening the nut that holds them on the backside. Since you've already disconnected and marked your turn signals you can now pull them down and off of the plastic shovel and set them aside.
Now it's time to chop off that horrible shovel piece... if you look there is a perfect groove that already gives you a straight line to cut on. I used my highspeed dremel with a cutoff wheel to accomplish this, but you can also use a small hacksaw blade as well, or a heated stanley knife. Cut the shovel completely off, and then go back and clean up your cut marks. No turning back now!
I took this time to put my fairings back on to check to make sure that none of the original plastic shovel piece could be seen... and I was so excited by how much better the bike is looking without that stupid thing on there... 100000000% better already!
Before the shovel came off -
After the removed shovel -
4. Bracket Creation: Now... you can choose to remount your license plate and turn signals however you'd like (whether you remount the plate under the seat, or off the rear hub in a custom style, and whether you use new LED turn signals, or go with flush mounts) I chose to keep the stock turn signals and use the 2 factory bolt mounts to mount up my plate. I went to Home depot and near their hardware section you'll find the following metal brackets.... (here you see me mocking up a plate mount)
Once you're satisfied with your plate mount, and you know it'll work, Go ahead and paint all the pieces if you wish. (if you havn't already done so... make sure to cut your holes out needed to remount your turn signals if you are going to re-use them). Don't mind all the extra holes in my upper plate bracket, they came pre-drilled like that on that piece of metal I bought and almost all get covered.
If you wish at this time, give yourself a test fit to make sure it'll all go together how you are hoping before taking the time to secure it all up under the bike.
5. Reinstallation: Now comes the easy part, bolt up your new plate mount, and bolt up your turn signals (I found that using a washer between the turn signal and the plate mount on the outside made for a super secure fit), and your plate lights (if you are using ones like I did). Feed the wires back up through the factory wire hole under the rear seat, and plug your wires back in. (which is easy to remember which wire goes where ... since you marked them back in Step 2.) Snug up all your bolts and check to make sure all the lights and turn signals work before putting the fairings and seat back on.
Completed undertail: Step back, admire, and ask yourself... "arn't I glad I did this myself for $15 vs. paying over 100$ for one online".
Total Time Spent - 1 hour for disassembly and reassembly. 1 hour for gathering materials. 2 hours for painting and curing time. 1 hour for measuring and drilling the holes in the steel and grinding them smooth. = 5hrs total.
Total Cost - $15
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