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92 GSXR 1127 engine into 750F Kat, questions

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  • Thanks, I have a 20mm axle with spacers and nut coming. Decided the 1127 requires a stronger axle.
    I'm thinking that I'll just drill out the 750 caliper bracket and spacers to 20mm.
    I'm planning some swingarm bracing too.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by buffalobill View Post
      Thanks, I have a 20mm axle with spacers and nut coming. Decided the 1127 requires a stronger axle.
      I'm thinking that I'll just drill out the 750 caliper bracket and spacers to 20mm.
      I'm planning some swingarm bracing too.
      don't ... seriously... don't.

      Get the spacer and caliper bracket for the 20mm axle. Trust me... MUCH easier in the long run.

      KRey
      93 750 Kat



      Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

      "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
        don't ... seriously... don't.

        Get the spacer and caliper bracket for the 20mm axle. Trust me... MUCH easier in the long run.

        KRey
        I don't understand your warning, because I'm only talking about the caliper side spacer and caliper arm.
        They are made of aluminum, I can imagine such a wide drill bit being hard to manage because it will cut too fast and grab. However if I'm gonna discard them anyway for the RF parts, it can't hurt to try.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by buffalobill View Post
          I don't understand your warning, because I'm only talking about the caliper side spacer and caliper arm.
          They are made of aluminum, I can imagine such a wide drill bit being hard to manage because it will cut too fast and grab. However if I'm gonna discard them anyway for the RF parts, it can't hurt to try.
          Couple of things...

          1. The Katana caliper bracket isn't the correct width for the spacing on the mod.

          2. Your making the already small caliper bracket thinner around the axle. Compare the thickness of the 20mm caliper brackets... it's a HUGE difference.

          3. You can get a proper caliper bracket with no need for any mods that will bolt straight to your caliper for really cheap.



          Krey
          93 750 Kat



          Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

          "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

          Comment


          • Really, that bolts right onto the 750 caliper?
            Wow, and thanks again.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by buffalobill View Post
              Really, that bolts right onto the 750 caliper?
              Wow, and thanks again.
              Yeah, that's a pretty common standard with the suzuki parts, the bolt pattern on the caliper mounts. That will work fine for the Katana (I've used several).

              The armless version is offset differently... you need the actual caliper too for that version if your wanting to use it, but the caliper + caliper bracket could easily be used on the katana. The total spacing and the rotor spacing is the same. Just need a small part welded to the swingarm to hold the caliper bracket in position that would be easy to do for the mod to do that conversion and get ride of the arm entirely.

              The RF600 caliper thread goes into detail on those two differences.

              KRey
              93 750 Kat



              Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

              "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

              Comment


              • Man, what a tedious process it is to tune carbs, the gas stench is so depressing.
                Anyway, on this project I got the idle down to normal range, but below 2000 it wants to die out.
                I have some more things to try, and check out.

                Comment


                • Making progress on the carbs, the fact is they were just overdue for rebuild, besides re-jeting them for the 1127.
                  Checked the compression today: #2 cylinder only shows 145psi, the others all show 170-180psi. Kinda at the limit of acceptable difference.
                  Engine was tested right after running so it was still warm and wet.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by buffalobill View Post
                    Making progress on the carbs, the fact is they were just overdue for rebuild, besides re-jeting them for the 1127.
                    Checked the compression today: #2 cylinder only shows 145psi, the others all show 170-180psi. Kinda at the limit of acceptable difference.
                    Engine was tested right after running so it was still warm and wet.
                    Damn my engine tested 160-165psi cold, I believe #2-#3 were 160 and 163. I wonder if yours just needs a good thrash to reseat the ring?

                    There is always plan b which is a 1216 kit/ what ever big bore kit that fits the 1127. The invoice for my 1216-1157 conversion is $1,600. Whitch isnt so bad considering thats parts, machining, dyno, retune, and labor. We project to generate around 150-160hp
                    Tekgnomes Crazy Custom Fighter
                    The Screaming Banshee <

                    Big Bore B12 swapped madness

                    Comment


                    • That's a nice engine they built for you.
                      My block is fine, it's the valves in #2. A valve job is far less than a total rebuild.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by buffalobill View Post
                        That's a nice engine they built for you.
                        My block is fine, it's the valves in #2. A valve job is far less than a total rebuild.
                        +1 on that

                        My original engine had valve problems, would have been cheaper to swap heads than to swap engines.

                        Well if you want to swap heads rather than repair The valves in #2

                        "the 1989 gsxr 750 has a 4cc smaller combustion chamber that ups the compression ratio .7 with no other changes. The cams from that head are the biggest, & best, STOCK cams you can get. The intake is .350 lift & the exhaust is .330 lift."

                        I've seen them on eBay for $300 and if you instal it yourself its cheap hp.

                        I needed a new cam tensioner and Pro stock had a 89 gsxr cam sitting around, they charged me $260 for a new tensioner and cam including labor.
                        Last edited by Tekgnome; 12-06-2015, 08:14 AM.
                        Tekgnomes Crazy Custom Fighter
                        The Screaming Banshee <

                        Big Bore B12 swapped madness

                        Comment


                        • I was looking at engine builders recommended on the https://www.sportbiketracktime.com/ forum.
                          In Michigan they mentioned: http://www.hanshawengines.com/
                          But, I'm not hunting for an AMA Superbike trophy, not even considering amateur racing, just occasional track instruction for my own satisfaction.
                          Last edited by buffalobill; 12-06-2015, 12:59 PM.

                          Comment


                          • Im not sure I would go that far. Id just take it to a trusted shop and fix the existing head or swap it for the 89 gsxr750.

                            10.7:1 will run on 93 octane and should be a considerable performance increase.

                            Holeshots je 11:1 standard bore kit generates crazy hp with out actually boring the block.
                            Tekgnomes Crazy Custom Fighter
                            The Screaming Banshee <

                            Big Bore B12 swapped madness

                            Comment


                            • I'm working on the carbs, replaced all the O rings and have the idle normal, but rough. I'm working on the mix using a Colortune. Shows yellow on 3 carbs, and the plugs were sooty/black.
                              So turning the needles inward leans the mix right?
                              One carb seems to have a leaky float needle, has been leaking all through this process.
                              Took me a long time to believe these carbs needed so much work.
                              Last edited by buffalobill; 12-13-2015, 04:48 PM.

                              Comment


                              • So, turning the air screws out leans the mix?
                                This simple thing is so taken for granted, it ain't in any carb tuning guide I've seen.
                                The Haynes manual shows you how to take the whole bike apart, but for tuning carbs it just says, take it to the dealer_

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