HEL brake line install.. Help!

[Cheriff]

Ok. So I rebuilt the rear caliper (thanks BP) and was starting to install the new rear HEL line. I chose the line which was the shortest, but this one was still ~1" longer than the OEM. Tried to get it on anyway and noticed the different thread issue. It looks like the kit only includes one of the sizes. Thats no biggy if the old hardware is compatible. Does anyone know if it is? And then the extra inch makes it hard to route properly since the hose is so stiff. It wants to have a bend that puts it pretty close to the rear rotor. Finally, since there isnt a bolt that fits the hole on the front side of the rear line, I am a little worried that I will not be able to use the double banjo bolt that came with the kit by the reservior on the front lines(since I am bypassing the front splitter). Has anyone had experience with this?

I am a little anxious since the back caliper isn't sealed to the air yet, and I don't want the rear reservior to dry out. (I at least re-installed the OEM brake line on the rear and put the other end in the air so that I could refill the reservior. Hopefully that will be enough.

Anxiously waiting for helpful responses

--And I did send a PM to HS2020. Anyone know his phone number... PM if you think he wouldn't mind a call. I have that "world is ending" feeling because of this

[Black_peter]

Hmm Old hardware should be fine. I added a kind of loop near the swing arm pivot. My line seem too long too. But mine was a GSX-R line..

[GytRDunKat]

PM'd Jimmy's number, I'm about 110% sure he won't mind a call.

[Cheriff]

Thanks BP. Any ideas of how to protect the rear caliper if it needs to sit a day or two (or three). I would guess put the bleeder back in and tighten the old line back on to keep the ambient air from getting inside and leaving moisture.

Hey, thanks for the number. I'll update after talking to him.

OK. Called Jimmy and here are the answers:

1-Old hardware is ok. For some reason the kits do not include the different thread bolt for the rear master cylinder. He is aware of it and is looking into having the kits sent with the one different bolt.

2-the rear line is usually a little longer. Just make sure to use the little rubber "holder" that attaches to the swingarm and slide the line forward or backward - whatever is needed to get it set properply.

3-despite the thread differences in the rear, the front double banjo bolt will thread in fine.

4-If replacing the front splitter, run the new lines as close to the OEMs as possible. Go behind the front fork when going to the left caliper.

[brooder]

4-If replacing the front splitter, run the new lines as close to the OEMs as possible. Go behind the front fork when going to the left caliper.

I told you that last night. I screwed that part up.

[Cheriff]

Brooder - I have to get you pictures of my dash. It will look almost exactly like yours, but I must share. Thanks again for your help.


Back to brakes:
I think I have the back brakes bled. I reverse bled to get a lot of air out, then did regular bleeding (with the aid of the speedbleeders). After I close the bleeders I pump the peddle and it moves some then gets firm. I have lost sense of how quickly it should get firm. What kind of movement on the lever should I expect? How can I go about checking to see if it is good before doing a road test?

BP-- My rear line has a bend just like yours now. It seems like that would be a great place for air to get trapped.

[Black_peter]

No air no air trapped..
I ran mine along the torque arm rather then the swing arm, I forgot to mention that. that took up more of the slack.
Once I bled the rear I never had an issue..

[Cheriff]

I only did the back first, that way I had the fronts as back-ups for the road test. We will see what tomorrow brings.

[HS2020]

Yes I never mind anyone calling me for help. Tom glad you got the rear on. As for the firmness it will take a little while to get use to. If you have all the air out of the lines the brake should be almost instant when pushing on it. Be carefull til you get use to them.

[Cheriff]

I just went for my first test ride (stayed in the development). The fronts feel like they could throw me over if I pressed too hard and the rears feel soft.

I should mention that I change the pads in the rear (not in the front) so the softness could be there until the pads where in.

Does that sound like it makes sense?

[Black_peter]

The rear should be firm but very controllable. It should lock up easily.
Depending on the condition of the rotor it might take some time for the pads to "bed in".

[Cheriff]

I cleaned up the garage ran some errands and came to clear my head a little. Came back to the bike and bleed the rear one more time. The only bubbles I got were very tiny. Should I assume these are normal? I've never bled brakes before so I can't really judge. If I had to guess I would say they are being formed at the seal between the tube and the speedbleeder. And just to reitterate (sp?), they are very small, say "tiny". If you were wearing an old prescription set of glasses you would probably miss them.

My final question on this issue is this: If it is reasonable to assume that the poor performance in the rear brake is due to the new pads needing to break in, is it safe to assume that worst case the poor performance is due to air in the line and that the performance will not suddenly get worse and surprise me while I am trying to break in the pads. My thoughts are to ride and see if they break in and get better. If they don't I know to look into it deeper. I just don't want to be surprised by a sudden loss of brake (although it is the rear).

Cheers.

[wcj]

No amount of air in the brake lines is good. You need to get the air out of the lines.

[brooder]

When I bled my front, I kept getting small (read: TINY) bubbles. They wouldn't clear. I was pulling with a syringe. I closed the bleeder and pumped the front hard twice and it seemed to clear. Rock solid after that.

[Cheriff]

I've got one more bottle left, so I will do another bleed tomorrow. When I put the new Carbonne Lorraine (sp?) pads on I installed the shims. That could be enough to keep the pads from making good contact on the initial <1 mile ride. Rainy until Wednesday though