Painting temperature

[paul.miner]

I plan to begin priming and painting a tank pretty soon, if the weather cooperates. I've been keeping the tank and the paint in the house, but I'll need to paint outside. The recommended temperature was 40s or 60s, but either way, it's 20s and 30s outside now.

Does the air temperature while painting matter? I was hoping to paint while the parts and paint are warm, bring it into a garage (maybe 40s) for a short time before bringing it into the house to set up.

Also, would putting it in the oven aid the curing process? I was thinking of doing something like preheating the oven to 180, shutting it off, and then letting the tank sit in the warm oven (never running the oven while the tank was in it).

[steves]

You want a pretty consistent temperature for the paint to adhere and cure properly. Something around 70*F is probably the best thing to shoot for. You also probably don't really want to move the panels until they have had time to flash.

Heating the garage up on paint day isn't an option?

[paul.miner]

Heating the garage up on paint day isn't an option?

Not easily... I've got 5 bikes packed into a narrow garage, 4 of which would need to be either covered or moved out. If the temperature while shooting is important, I guess I could buy some painting tarps and cover everything up.

[steves]

You want everything nice and warm. If need be, just do all your prep now, and wait until spring to spray.

[chris216]

I agree, heat the garage somewhere around the 70 degree mark to spray and let flash for a few hours in there before taking inside. It's not necessary that it stays exactly at 70 but you want is to be around that at all times give or take 5-10 degrees. The colder it is won't let the paint set up as quickly and the warmer it is sets it up quicker. Also curing in the oven is a big No-No

[paul.miner]

I agree, heat the garage somewhere around the 70 degree mark to spray and let flash for a few hours in there before taking inside.

What is flash, and what is the problem with taking it inside earlier?

[steves]

What is flash, and what is the problem with taking it inside earlier?

"Flashing" is the name for the chemical process of the paint setting up on the surface. It's the time between when it comes out of the applicator, until it's set on the surface. During this time it's extremely important not to disturb the paint of piece.

You don't want to "shock" the paint with a temperature change until after the paint has flashed.

[fastflats]

Paul, you will defintately need around 70 degrees for the paint process. Most all paints have a minimum temp required for curing between coats. The curing process for cold temps would be so slow, that you would end up with mucho dirt/dust/particles in the paint, & probably even more runs in paint, even with fast drying thinners/reducers. I have tried it(below 65) in the past & never had a good result. Not sure how you will heat it, but be careful as open flames/heating elements, & highly flammable paints are not a good mix....don't want to read about your garage(& you) being launched to the moon from an explosion.

[paul.miner]

Paul, you will defintately need around 70 degrees for the paint process. Most all paints have a minimum temp required for curing between coats. The curing process for cold temps would be so slow, that you would end up with mucho dirt/dust/particles in the paint, & probably even more runs in paint, even with fast drying thinners/reducers. I have tried it(below 65) in the past & never had a good result. Not sure how you will heat it, but be careful as open flames/heating elements, & highly flammable paints are not a good mix....don't want to read about your garage(& you) being launched to the moon from an explosion.

Does it make a difference I'll be using rattle cans? And are the temperature recommendations as strict for primer as well?

I intend on using rattle cans, starting with filler primer, primer sealer, engine enamel, and then clear coat.

From reading around, I think I need some kind of two-part clear coat. Everything I've read suggests that even if it says gas/oil resistant, rattle can clear coats won't withstand a drop of gas, but two-part mixtures will (something about a button/pin on the bottom you push to mix just prior to spraying).

I'd like to get a 2-part rattle can, but if I can't I'll get a sprayer or find someone with a sprayer to do it.

[Kreylyn]

... I guess I could buy some painting tarps and cover everything up.

Just a note.... I would look towards making a paint "booth" instead of working about covering everything else up. It would not only keep it centralized, but also help prevent dust or other things from settling on your paint job.

Just a 25' long roll of 3mil polly at wallmark can give you enough to do that pretty cheap.

Krey

[paul.miner]

Just a note.... I would look towards making a paint "booth" instead of working about covering everything else up. It would not only keep it centralized, but also help prevent dust or other things from settling on your paint job.

Just a 25' long roll of 3mil polly at wallmark can give you enough to do that pretty cheap.

I'm liking this idea... could tape off part of the garage and just work in there. The electric heater would have an easier time warming it up too.

[scottynoface]

I just use painter's plastic, but I've only done small pieces never any fairings.

[fastflats]

From my experience, the catalyzed paint systems are the most resilient to spilled gas. Single stage acrylics will lift(or stain) eventually from gas. Don't think rattle can is a catalyzed paint, but never used it before. The cost of two stage paint is expensive, but cutting costs now & having to redo it after it lifts makes for twice the time & material in the end....