2002 Katana 600 Horsepower

[Yellow2002Kat]

Hey guys and gals,

I was wondering, does anyone know what the HP on a 2002 600 Kat is? I've looked around and the it seems that ~70HP is the general concensus. That sound about right? Just curious.

As an aside I went for a 60 mile ride today. Checking out this board got me inspired and the weather was beautiful. My wrists were (and still are kinda) killing me though. Guess riding more will help me build up some tolerance...

[katana bob]

when I read the thread title I thought you meant a 600 horsepower kat!

about the wrists- try to keep your weight off of them when riding. let your much larger back muscles support your weight. it's tricky, but you can find a sweet spot on the seat where you're quite comfy with your weight off your wrists and you're not squishing your gonads.

[rwcreigh]

i thought the same thing.i saw 600 hp and i was thinking ok i gotta see this!!!

[Yellow2002Kat]

[quote="katana bob"]when I read the thread title I thought you meant a 600 horsepower kat!

Uh, sorry about the misleading title. Honest mistake.

[rwcreigh]

no worries,I WANT TO SEE A 600 HP KAT

[Yellow2002Kat]

Ok, I'm posting again. Does anyone know the HP? Am I in the balpark? I know you guys know and are just holding out on me... Bastards...

[bamarama]

Real World: Probably in the range of 65-75 hp.

Academia: Somewhere between 0 and 200 with an error of +/- 6000 hp, but I'll require 10 years, 5 chinese grad students, and 1 million to accurately predict the true hp.

[The CyberPoet]

Figure the engine puts out somewhere around 80 horsepower in ideal shape. Add in typical wear and tear on the engine as it ages, plus looser valves, and that number drops to the mid-70's (let's say 75 for arguement's sake). Then comes the losses at the tranny (minimal actually) and at the sprocket/chain interfaces (these can be hefty -- a badly stretched chain can rob you of 10 to 15% of the output of the engine easily). So you end up with a number around 66-68 HP for most riders on a typical 98+ Kat 600 as measured at the rear-wheel on a typical dyno. Slap a new chain & sprockets on and that number can easily climb back up to around 70-71 HP. Ditto for adding in an aftermarket jetkit and/or a marginally larger header.

But since this particular engine isn't build primarily with solely HP in mind, the real question is what are the torque values (since it's designed to offer up more torque earlier in the RPM range at the expense of some of the HP potential), and values in the upper 30's to low 40's are common in my experience.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[konradpol]

Well i found this site pretty usefull... has some specs on the kat.. check it out:

http://suzukicycles.org/GSX-series/GSX600F-numbers.shtml

[stevnmd]

Most folks who have actually had their bike dyno'ed see between 65 - 68 rwhp with a jet kit and slip-on. To get over 70, you are going to need larger headers. The stock headers on the 600 are absolutely tiny. I think the most I've seen on a dyno chart is about 75, and that was with a full Hindle system and a professionally tuned (numerous dyno runs) jet kit installation.

[stevnmd]

Most folks who have actually had their bike dyno'ed see between 64 - 68 rwhp with a jet kit and slip-on. To get over 70, you are going to need larger headers. The stock headers on the 600 are absolutely tiny. I think the most I've seen on a dyno chart is about 75, and that was with a full Hindle system and a professionally tuned (numerous dyno runs) jet kit installation.

[The CyberPoet]

Most folks who have actually had their bike dyno'ed see between 65 - 68 rwhp with a jet kit and slip-on. To get over 70, you are going to need larger headers.

Mine ran 70.9 HP given the following set-up:
'01 Kat 600
OEM Kat 750 headers & muffler, header weld seams ground out.
Ivans JetKit, OEM air filter.
5 degree advancer (which shouldn't make a difference in peak HP).
9k miles on the chain at the time...

101 degrees in the work bay, 98% relative humidity, 21 feet over sea level. I'm not sure how much the dynometer adjusted for these temp/humidty factors, I just know that as I go up into the mountains (rally time, for example), the bike really comes alive by comparison... fuel mileage climbs greatly too (because ambient pressure drops, fuel consumption rates drop).

My last Kat:
'00 Kat 600
OEM Kat 600 exhaust & air filter
DynoJet JetKit.
17k on the chain.
68.1 HP before, 68.9 HP after installing/tuning the jetkit.
78 degrees in the work bay, 61% relative humidity, 27 feet over sea level.

I attribute virtually all of the difference to the difference in the jetkits, because both exhaust systems have the same size restriction at the collector-to-midpipe opening.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[skasner]

d@mn... i got sucked in my the title too. i was like... wtf is this guy talking about? a 600hp katana?

anyhow, looks like the other members pretty much answered the HP question. as for the "sore wrists" you can expect your wrists, back, butt, and neck to be a little sore for the first month or so of riding until your muscles adapt. after that you'll be able to ride all day on a kat w/o much fatigue.

[trinc]

and as you can see i was running a little rich - maybe i could have gotten to 75 HP if i went back after adjusting the main jets.

99 kat
5 degree advancer
15-50 sprockets
750 header
k&n filter - jetkit
valves adjusted & carbs sync'd
2 brothers slip-on
new RK chain
running on act-evo 10-40 with 89 octane (winter blend)


tim

[trinc]

d@mn... i got sucked in my the title too. i was like... wtf is this guy talking about? a 600hp katana?

anyhow, looks like the other members pretty much answered the HP question. as for the "sore wrists" you can expect your wrists, back, butt, and neck to be a little sore for the first month or so of riding until your muscles adapt. after that you'll be able to ride all day on a kat w/o much fatigue.

a common mistake - when sitting on the bike in riding position your wrists should be inline with your forarms while covering the brake & clutch. if they aren't you need to adjust your levers !

when you lean forward the weight should be on the palm of your hands - if your levers are adjusted to high you turn your wrist - then all that weight is on your wrist.
( this is NOT to say you should have your weight forward but a test only to see if your levers are adjusted corrrectly. you should stay light on the bars and let your torso hold you up )

tim