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Mechanics 101 Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
From the first oil change to completely rebuilding the engine,
this is the place to talk about the heart of the beast!


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Old 11-08-2005, 11:04 AM   #1
max*1013
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Default cluch when to replace

I have a question about my cluch. Mine starts grabing about 2/3 of the handle being let out. Does that mean it is almost going? I have adjust it from the handle bars. Can it be adjusted from the tran?
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Old 11-08-2005, 01:20 PM   #2
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Default also

Also I'm looking for a manual for a 2000/750 kat.
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Old 11-08-2005, 01:59 PM   #3
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No , that sounds fine . It's when you're beating on the bike and the rpm's go up but your speed doesn't , THAT'S when you need a new clutch .
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Old 11-08-2005, 03:48 PM   #4
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Kool thanks
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Old 11-09-2005, 04:49 PM   #5
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Suzuki says their clutches should last a minimum of 20k miles in city (stop-n-go driving) if you treat it nicely. Most riders get far more than that out of their clutches because of highway miles (where you don't tend to use the clutch at all for long distances).

MD86 has it down pat -- when the RPM's change without a speed change, time to replace the clutch. Most people run through a couple clutch cables before that happens (far more likely for the cable to stretch, bind or break).

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Old 11-11-2005, 10:12 PM   #6
smoubara
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after i started feeling my clutch slipping heavily on the highway, i thought it was worn so i took it appart. the disks were mint. added a set of heavy duity springs and now it grabs much better. no slip at all. the heavier clutch pull can be a bit annoying in the city though.
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Old 11-12-2005, 12:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoubara
after i started feeling my clutch slipping heavily on the highway, i thought it was worn so i took it appart. the disks were mint. added a set of heavy duity springs and now it grabs much better. no slip at all. the heavier clutch pull can be a bit annoying in the city though.
The quesiton is why was your clutch slipping with the stock springs? There are only three answers that come to mind, given that you said the disks were mint and that stronger springs resolved the issue:
(A) The clutch pads were actually glazed a bit from slipping them excessively (like trying to wheelie the bike, or high-RPM take-off's);
(B) The oil you used (or an oil previously used) was API SJ, SL or SM, was marked "energy conserving" in the API spec ring, or an oil or oil additive was used that had one of the three big no-no compounds in it when it comes to wet clutches (teflon [poly tetrafluoroethylene or PFTE], moly [molybdenum disulfide], graphite);
(C) The springs were too weak in general (very rare, esp. if they are routinely replaced at time of clutch pad changes).

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