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Wiring and Electrics Questions, answers and posts pertaining to electrical mods and problems

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Old 06-23-2017, 03:03 PM   #11
Blackbandit
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Update... i just did every test i could think of and it all points to the cdi...is there any way i can test it before i have to buy a new one? If I do have to buy a new one can I set up a dyna ignition on the bike? Because the price of a new OEM CDI is same price as Dyna ignition would that be a better way to go or should I stick with OEM parts?
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Old 06-23-2017, 03:20 PM   #12
ZookRick
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A good oem ignition could be found on ebay for much less than a new one, a LOT less hassle that trying to wire in a whole new ignition.
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Old 06-24-2017, 07:46 AM   #13
Kreylyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbandit View Post
Update... i just did every test i could think of and it all points to the cdi...is there any way i can test it before i have to buy a new one? If I do have to buy a new one can I set up a dyna ignition on the bike? Because the price of a new OEM CDI is same price as Dyna ignition would that be a better way to go or should I stick with OEM parts?
Your first post mentioned you already replaced the CDI. Did it not have one, or was it expected to be the issue to start with?

Does the bike have an original OEM ignition switch being used, or has it been modified or tampered with? Many of the newer model bikes require a specific resistor in the switch to trigger the CDI / ICM to trigger firing the coils. Some cheaper china made aftermarket switches for example don't have that, and so you end up with everything appearing to work but the bike won't fire the coils to run. It's a security / anti theft sort of feature.

If that's the case, the aftermarket control module should by pass that feature, or ... put a OEM switch back on it.

No way to test CDI / ICM with out replacing it, not at a reasonably priced option anyways. Most shops no longer have testing equipment, and it's either a lot of $ for one or you need to have a lot of know how with electrical equip to build one. The swap with known good is the most commonly used choice.

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Old 06-24-2017, 12:22 PM   #14
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I purchased a second CDI thinking it was the problem. I did change the ignition switch to a aftermarket one and I also tried plugging my old one back in it did not work. I also did a load test while trying to start the bike and the power to the coils was only around 8 volts while trying to start but when the ignition is on there is 11 .6 volts am I supposed to get a voltage drop of that much?

The battery holds a good charge as well

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What voltage do you have at the coils when the starter is turning the motor over?

Krey
Sorry kray i misses this question

Last edited by Blackbandit; 06-24-2017 at 12:22 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 06-24-2017, 12:28 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbandit View Post
I purchased a second CDI thinking it was the problem. I did change the ignition switch to a aftermarket one and I also tried plugging my old one back in it did not work. I also did a load test while trying to start the bike and the power to the coils was only around 8 volts while trying to start but when the ignition is on there is 11 .6 volts am I supposed to get a voltage drop of that much?

The battery holds a good charge as well



Sorry kray i misses this question
Hey, now we are making some progress.

So no, not supposed to drop like that. A headlight will generall pull around 1v aprox... but a fully charged battery is 12.3v normally. Even with a 1v drop, you should be getting over 11v to the coils.

If the coils do not have 11v, the bike will not start. So if you bump that starter and it's dropping to 8v... it will crank and crank, but never hit.

Now, you can do a temp bypass of the wiring system as a test. Just run wires straight from the postive battery post to the orange wires on each coil (1 each) then try to start the bike. Check now to see if a voltage drop. If there is one, then your dealing with a battery issue that is failing under load.

If it starts right up, and no drop in voltage... then you need to clean and service the wiring harness.

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Old 06-25-2017, 09:47 AM   #16
Blackbandit
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Ok ill try that soon when i get some free time and let you know how it goes... fingers crossed

So your saying to tie into the orange power wire from the positive terminal?

Or unplug the orange wire and connect the temporary wire directly from the battery to the coil?

Last edited by Blackbandit; 06-25-2017 at 09:47 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 06-25-2017, 09:22 PM   #17
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Or unplug the orange wire and connect the temporary wire directly from the battery to the coil?
This...

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Old 06-26-2017, 02:37 PM   #18
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Ok so i did the test and im still getting the same numbers as before and i took my battery into napa autoshop to get tested.. and it checks out good on a load test. I then hooked jumper cables to my car and boosted the bike. still nothing.
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Old 06-26-2017, 08:18 PM   #19
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Safe to say its not the battery
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Old 06-26-2017, 08:59 PM   #20
Mikes93Kat750
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You unplugged the coil wires and hooked them up directly to the battery along with boosting the battery at the same time with the same results?
What's the resistance of the coils?

In order for a coil to fire, it needs 3 things. A voltage source, a trigger source and a ground path.
The voltage source can be battery or stator.
The trigger source can be points, cdi, pickup coil or something else.
I just had a vehicle come into the shop where I work with no spark. It ended up being a bad wire from the distributor going to the coil.
Have you done a wiggle test while cranking the engine over?

Last edited by Mikes93Kat750; 06-26-2017 at 08:59 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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