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|Katana How-To's & FAQ's A forum filled with write-ups, FAQ's, and visual aids for
mechanical & cosmetic modifications to your Katana.
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|10-28-2006, 11:07 AM||#1|
Pre 98 Caliper Rebuild (w/ pics)
[HOW TO Flush & Fill here]
8mm to 14mm box end wrench set.
8mm 12mm, 14mm sockets and ratchet.
Clean fresh brake fluid.
Older clean brake fluid (optional)
Lint free rags.
Brake cleaning spray.
Compressed air (option 1)
Tire pump (option 2)
Small plastic baggies
Rubber bands/ wire ties.
Container for parts (screws etc..)
And most important, Caliper rebuild parts:
59100-19831 (this is the complete kit for one caliper, 13.64 each.)
Fist off using an open end wrench (size dependent on your mods) loosen the hose fittings at the caliper. At this point just loosen them. (See note below)
Next using a 12mm socket remove the two bolts holding the calipers to the fork lower.
Off topic: I was always told these are screws. It's not a bolt until you add a nut but I still call them bolts, sorry dad...
Here is where things get tricky:
Open the brake fluid reservoir and wrap a rag around it.
(see my how to on flushing/bleeding the brakes http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=60280
Now Wiggle the calipers to push the pistons back into the caliper.
NOTE: Some fluid will return to the reservoir or seep out of the hose fitting so
be mindful of this. Once the caliper is loose enough pull it free.
As quick as possible (this might get messy) remove the hose fitting and cover the end with the baggie. secure with wire tie or rubber band.
This will prevent all the fluid from draining out of the system and;
a. prevent a bigger mess.
b. aid in bleeding the system. Empty systems can be a bear to bleed.
Now we have the caliper free.
Using an 8mm deep socket or box end (do not use an open end) remove the bleeder.
Remove the fitting base, shown here is the stock two part fitting. This base can be really tight. I suggest a socket here..
Pop off the pad cover.
Remove the two 14mm screws holding the halves together. You will want to do this over your plastic bin. This way parts that fall will get caught and any remaining fluid will drain there too.
After the halves come apart several parts will fall loose:
Seen here. The 4 piston blocks and the 2 pad retaining pins with their clips.
Throw all these parts into a safe place!
Now this is the technique I use. I hook the piston with the channel locks.
Then at no time touching the outside of the piston or the caliper I pull out the piston. You can also push them out using the air pump or compressor set very low!
And this is one reason why we are here.. Look at the crud!
The second reason here you can see not only the built up brake crud but the clogged up brake fluid. (the chunks believe it or not are coagulated fluid!)
This is the other one. N-a-s-t-y!
This is an important part! The seal between the halves. You are replacing it but don't forget about it!
Reason number three. This crud is everywhere! It is really important to get the passages clean!
This port connects the two pistons. It needs to be cleaned but only with soft things or just the spray!
Using a sharp object. (I am a professional so I'm using a dental pick, this is one of those do as I say not as I do moments.) You can try a sharpened piece of plastic like a plastic fork. Remove the Dust seal (thinner top seal) and the piston seal (lower thicker one) It is very important that you do not scratch anything here. Take your time!
Now lets get cleaning. Using a rag and a little brake fluid (new or old) clean the piston. It should clean up like this without much difficulty.
Now using the tooth brush get to work on the caliper. Don't forget all the nooks and crannies! Here you can see (kinda ) the gunk hiding in the seal grooves. I find dipping the parts in mineral spirits helps to loosen up the gunk.
Clean and shiny!
Don't forget the half seals!!
Sorry these are so blurry.. but you can tell by the shine how clean they got. Take the pad retaining pins and put them in your drill. Wrap a bit of scotch brite around it and spin away the crap!
I do the same with the bleeder. The red stuff is the sealing compound.. This stuff helps to keep the fluid from seeping out between the caliper and the bleeder. I suggest if you can get it add a few wraps of Teflon tape.
Clean up your bolts and the rest and here you are!
NOTE: I used stripper to remove the paint.. yours should not be effected!
Drop all the new seals into a dish of clean brake fluid coat well!
Pour a bit of fluid into the calipers.
Insert the wet seals. Lots of fluid make the parts a bit slippery this is a blessing and a curse. The parts are squirmy but they fit into place easier.
Coat the piston and put it in.
Here is how the blocks go in. You can do it now or after the the calipers are assembled It's a juggling act either way.
New half seals.
Carefully put the halves together. Watch out for the half seal!
Replace the bolts and tighten down.
Replace the caliper the reverse of removal. It might be easier to add the pads after bolting to the fork. Then reattach the hoses and flush out the lines. After all this work please don't put old fluid into them!
PDF Link: http://katriders.com/vb/attachment.p...1&d=1207274224
Last edited by Black_peter; 10-30-2008 at 10:10 PM..
|10-28-2006, 03:36 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Surrey, BC, Canada
well done, thanks for the writeup.
|10-31-2006, 12:33 PM||#6|
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Dallas, Texas - Overland Park, KS
I love the search feature. I was just advised by CP to do a caliper rebuild. I searched and lo! its right there with pics and everything. Thanks Black Peter
2003 Black/Gray Hayabusa
With great Horsepower, comes great Responsibility!
|05-05-2007, 11:46 AM||#10|
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: fishtown section of philadelphia, pa
- The Social Invalid
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