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Katana How-To's & FAQ's A forum filled with write-ups, FAQ's, and visual aids for
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Old 04-25-2009, 08:59 PM   #1
Kat King
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Weaverville, NC
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Default Pre Kat Petcock Rebuild Pictorial and Walkthru.

I just completed a rebuild on my spare petcock. It was... in horrible shape, and completely not functioning. I took lots of pics, so I thought I would share a bit of info on the inner working and parts replacement of the petcock.

Here is what came in the kit I purchased.

BTW, a similiar rebuild kit like I used can be purchased from The CyberPoet for $22 + Shipping (price subject to change).

The tools I used for the process.

Used tooth brush
Small flat head screwdriver
Large flat head screwdriver
Medium phillips head screwdriver
10mm Socket
parts tray of some kind (I found kitty litter trays at the local grocery store for $1 per, and picked up half a dozen).

Also, I went ahead and picked up a parts cleaning can. I have some other items I plan on using it for as well. It was $19.99 at Auto Zone. Might have found it cheaper, but eh... It was a spur of the moment buy when picking up a can of spray carb cleaner.

Okay, so lets get started.

First, remove the petcock from the gas tank. It's easiest if you have already drained the tank, but if it's not full, you can tilt the tank so the petcock side is the highest and remove it as well. Just be careful of spills. For my example, I have a dry tank most of the paint has been stripped off. It's just to show how the petcock is mounted normally.

Petcock ports... top and bottom brass is where gas should flow. The protrusion to the right side is where the vacuum line should go.

Lets remove the petcock from the tank. Take the 10 milli socket and loosen both large screws.

Once both are removed, the petcock should pull straigh out of the tank.

Now that it's removed, dry it off if it's still wet with gas. Be careful how you dispose of the rags if you do. Remember, gas fumes are combustable!

I placed the petcock in the parts bin at this point, to prepare for the disassembly.

Some general pics of the condition of the petcock before I start...

I started by removing the selector knob. Using the small flat head, you just need to slightly lift the clip on first one side, then the other side.

You should now be able to pull the knob straight out. You can twist it a little as you pull to help ease it out.

The spring will be replaced from the kit. You can see the rubber o-ring on the knob is very worn. This also will be replaced from the kit.

Next step is to get the plastic insert out. There isn't anything really holding it in, except maybe gunk at this point. Using the large flat head screw driver, very carefully insert it, and only lightly turn it back and forth. DO NOT FORCE IT! There is a metal part underneath that could be bent and will mess things up if you do. All you want is a little movement, in the same range as you would normally have from the selector knob (1/4 turn either way)

You can see that this petcock is horribly gunked up now that I've removed that part. Also, notice the metal part inside under where the plastic part I just removed. This is what you do not want to bend.

Next I removed the old O-Ring around the screen, that seals the petcock to the gas tank.

That was quick and easy... There is no need to remove the screen. We will be cleaning with it still attatched with no problems.

Next step, is to start the disassebly of the vacuum area.

Remove the 4 phillips head screws. Pull the cover off.

Be careful at this point, there are a few parts here that will not be included in your petcock rebuild kit. You will need to reuse them.

Remove the diaphram assembly. The large spring, and the plastic center piece (between the 2 diaphram gaskets) will need to be reused. In this case, you can see the small o-ring on the diaphram has disentigrated, and is still stuck inside the petcock, blocking it off!

Lets pull the plastic spacer out from the diaphram assembly.

We can toss the old diaphram, but remember to keep the white plastic spacer. It must be reused after cleaning.

Another look at just how badly this petcock was stopped up. Very bad shape.

Now to open the carb parts can of cleaner. It comes with a nice bucket to put all the parts in so you don't have to fish them out later.

In go the parts I need to have cleaned.

And I left them in the can overnight, with the lid back on it very lightly. Next day, I pulled them back out and this is what I found.

I then took the used tooth brush (soft plastic bristles) to clean anything that was still holding on to the parts. Small, circular, light strokes cleaned them right up. Then I wiped them down lightly with a rag, and they looked like this after less than 5 minutes.

So now that we have clean parts, it's time to re-assemble the petcock.

I started with the diaphram assembly first. Insert the white plastic spacer part in between the diaphram gaskets.

Place it in the petcock, the side with the small o-ring going in. Place the larger spring on top, around the center. Don't forget to put the other gasket on at this point for the top shown in my hand. (I did, and had to go back, so that is why it isn't pictured.)

Once all back together, carefully insert the 4 screws. I very lightly turned them by hand to start them, and did all 4 so that I could then make sure the diaphram gaskets were not bunching or pinching. Then tighten them down. You don't need a lot of torque here, just 1/4 turn after finger tight should be fine.

Next step was to re-assemble the selector knob. Look, that gasket I forgot to use in the previous step, is in the bag still in the upper left, so I got to go back to put it in...

Lets put the small o-ring on.

Put the small spring in the center. Notice the protrusions from the knob are different sizes, so they go into the plastic piece only one way. Also notice that the clip that holds the knob onto the petcock is what limits the range of the turn. Make sure the arrow on the knob is turned "down", and that the clip will allow for you to make 1/4 turns left or right before inserting the parts. Put them all in place, and latch the clip again to hold it all in.

Now insert the large o-ring around the screen

And put it back on the tank. You now have a petcock as good as new.

Here are a few more pictures of mine after being completed.

That should fix it right up. Now to finish prep on my spare gas tank and get it ready to be painted.

93 750 Kat

Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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Old 04-25-2009, 09:26 PM   #2
Kat King
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Location: Union KY
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Excellent write up Kreylyn, How To and FAQ sticky fa sho
90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

Originally Posted by Badfaerie View Post
I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
Originally Posted by soulless kaos View Post
but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.
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Old 04-25-2009, 10:45 PM   #3
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Very good job Krey.
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