[The CyberPoet]

I did something similar but using a Blue Sea Fuse Block I bought at West Marine. It's also a 6 circuit and I'm already up to 7. I have one dubble up. I'm ready for their 12 circuit block. That should be plenty.

You can see a pic of it here.

Nice. I looked at those as well, and debated the size factor & how to relay it up the way I wanted. Are you running the headlights across the Blue Sea block?
Nice Pro-Oiler BTW. I've been tinkering with the location of where to mount mine -- it seems the oil bottle will fit just outside ledge of the compartment you have yours in, right below the frame rail, although refilling it will be a bit tricky there. You should contact Pablo (the guy who manufacturers the Pro-Oilers) about getting the two-sided oiler tip. Also, how did you mount the remote where you have it? I'd like to use that same set-up for the remote location...

Q: What's the big thing right behind the seat release latch? Kind of looks like an air horn... or compressor?

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[FloridaKat]

Neat, but a quick question. I can't get a sense if the new set-up impedes any airflow into the airbox. Is there a low pressure area generated just before the airbox to facilitate flow? Does that flow come from underneath the bike and/or the inlets before the seat?

[The CyberPoet]

Neat, but a quick question. I can't get a sense if the new set-up impedes any airflow into the airbox. Is there a low pressure area generated just before the airbox to facilitate flow? Does that flow come from underneath the bike and/or the inlets before the seat?

Since everything in my new set-up is at the same height or lower than the top of the existing (OEM) fuse/relay holder, and well below the opening for the air filter, I don't have any reason to suspect that it will alter the intake volume/pressure at all. That's a big part of the reason for the bracket -- the bottom of the bracket is only about 1/4" above the top surface of the battery, and about 1/16th inch above the top surface of the other (OEM) bracket.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[squiggy]

Are you running the headlights across the Blue Sea block?

Also, how did you mount the remote where you have it? I'd like to use that same set-up for the remote location...

What's the big thing right behind the seat release latch? Kind of looks like an air horn... or compressor?

(1) Headlights, no. Driving lights, yes.

(2) I just drilled holes in the plastic fender and mounted the plastic snap ring with some nylon lock nuts. It holds the bottle up (filled to capacity) without any slippage downward. Here's the page for the Hawk Oiler installation. However, the pix of the "exit tubing" did not work for me. So that part of the installation is not current.

(3) That is the AudioVox electronic cruise control cable box thingy. I forgot what exactly it's called. There a cable that comes out of it and attaches to the throttle linkage. That's the first location I mounted it. But since I removed the charcoal canister on the bike, I now moved over to that location. Here's the album for the installation of it. There's only a few pictures in it. And yes, it's a whole lot better than any mechanical throttle lock.

[The CyberPoet]

(2) I just drilled holes in the plastic fender and mounted the plastic snap ring with some nylon lock nuts. It holds the bottle up (filled to capacity) without any slippage downward. Here's the page for the Hawk Oiler installation. However, the pix of the "exit tubing" did not work for me. So that part of the installation is not current.

(3) That is the AudioVox electronic cruise control cable box thingy. I forgot what exactly it's called. There a cable that comes out of it and attaches to the throttle linkage. That's the first location I mounted it. But since I removed the charcoal canister on the bike, I now moved over to that location. Here's the album for the installation of it. There's only a few pictures in it. And yes, it's a whole lot better than any mechanical throttle lock.

I mistook the remote for the Audiovox to be the remote for the Pro-Oiler (not realizing you were using the Hawke Oiler), and was trying to understand how you had that cruise-control remote mounted (i.e. - did the bracket come with it, or was it something you fabbed up)?

Now you've got me interested in the Audiovox unit too... especially now that I've found they are offering a pure electrical (no vacuum tap) version... Any weather issues with the remote (have you had it in torrential rains yet)?

Finally, why didn't you do a full write-up on the install? I'm sure a ton of your KR brothers would have loved to know about it (me included)!

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[squiggy]

....did the bracket come with it, or was it something you fabbed up)?

Now you've got me interested in the Audiovox unit too... especially now that I've found they are offering a pure electrical (no vacuum tap) version... Any weather issues with the remote (have you had it in torrential rains yet)?

Finally, why didn't you do a full write-up on the install? I'm sure a ton of your KR brothers would have loved to know about it (me included)!

I would say nearly 95% of the information I read about the Audiovox and it's various installation methods were from the FJR Owners web board. The rest was from the Concours Owners Group and the Honda ST1300 board.

The bracket is an easy custom job to be found here. Scrool down a few pages. I followed his instructions. You'll also see at the top other links for dicussions on the Audiovox installations.

The one I have does require a vacuum canister, but like you said there are the pure electrical ones that would make easier plumbing. Less hoses to run and tap into, or replace when they dry out and crack.

The remote's been in the rain. In Sacramento we mostly get showers, but just like in the link above I used that black goop to seal the back end where the wires exit out. The front of the pannel has not been modified. When I did have it operating, I did not have any problems with water issues.

The cable portion is not currently hooked up because when I replaced my cylinder head last year, I had been without the bike for about 3 months. I was anxious to put it back together so I could ride again, so I did not want to spend the time to hook up the cable and replace the faulty hoses.

And lastly regarding the write-up, I believe I installed it before I become a member here and never really considered a "How To" article when I was in the process of the installation.

The hardest part of the whole installation was figuring out how to connect the cruise control cable to the carburetor linkage. That took me about 3 hours of going like this:

will this work? no.

how 'bout this? no.

o.k. this? no.

let's try this. no go.

Since the Audiovox is a "universal" cruise control you have to figure how to conected it to any individual bike. Even what I have now works (did work), but it's still not the way I would like it to be. The electrical connections are fairly straitforward. The worst here is just tapping into one of the coil wires to get a signal from the tach.

[Katlover13]

does someone have a link to the audiovox cruise control? I am interested in taking a look at it.

[squiggy]

does someone have a link to the audiovox cruise control? I am interested in taking a look at it.

I originally bought mine through Summit Racing for a little over $100.00. From the search I don't see the same one I bought.

Here's the link to Audiovox's web site which shows their other types of cruise control products.

Rostra Precision Controls is another manufacture that I know of that also makes cruise control products. Both vacuum and electronic. Here's another place that show what they offer, both "universal" and automotive specific.

It seams the vacuum ones are less expensive than their counterpart, though.