source for pre 98 brake rotors

[gsxxx]

I was wondering if there is a source for the pre 98 rotors. I found a couple, but they wanted like $170 just for the rear.(by the way thats the one I am looking for). I'd just turn the one thats on there, but it is wavier than the ocean. by the way, since the rotors are floating, can I just replace the friction surface, or do I have to replace the whole shebang?

[md86]

Used ones can be had for ALOT cheaper than that , but finding them can be iffy .... I see them pop up HERE quite a bit , though .

[The CyberPoet]

I was wondering if there is a source for the pre 98 rotors. I found a couple, but they wanted like $170 just for the rear.(by the way thats the one I am looking for). I'd just turn the one thats on there, but it is wavier than the ocean. by the way, since the rotors are floating, can I just replace the friction surface, or do I have to replace the whole shebang?

(A) The rear brake hubs should be non-floating on the Kats, according to what I've found...

(B) If there are floating hubs, and there is any slop in the floating hubs, replace the hubs. In other words, they should be tight enough that your rotor shouldn't be able to move in-board/out-board on one edge without the opposite edge having to do the same (if you think the rears are expensive, check out the fronts!).

(C) If the rotor surface is grooved (cut), measure the thickness of the rotor at the deepest grooves. As long as you are above minimum thickness everywhere on the rotor, live with the grooves and give the new pads time to cut-in to them; if you are below minimum thickness, replace the rotor (and get in the habit of cleaning your rotors more often -- what cuts the grooves is sand trapped between the pads & the rotors).
If the rotor is wavey (in other words, if you laid it on a table, one or more edges would lift away from the table rather than the rotor laying flat), replace it under all circumstances and go looking for why it got that way (overheating, bad carrier slop, or most often a misaligned rear wheel).

(D) Consider aftermarket replacements. EBC, HEL, etc. They are often cheaper in cost and as good or better in quality. The number of holes or grooves is significant, as they help remove off-gassing from the pads (reduces the tendency for pads to glaze), so more holes/grooves is better.

**
EBC part number for their replacment rear rotor is an MD3002 or in a pedal-design is MS3002C for your specific bike, and their reference lists it as a flat solid mount rotor with no floating hubs (nate that the GS500 & GS500F share the same rear rotor for '89 - '06 -- see page 245 of the '06 EBC motorcycle catalog for more details).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[gsxxx]

ok, you are right. the rear rotor isn't floating. thanks for the info. My rear rotor is probably too far gone to try and even out the grooves. I am thinking that the previous owner was a little back break happy, as the front rotors/pads show almost no wear at all.