[steves]

JB Weld likely won't be strong enough to hold up to the oil since it's an epoxy. Eventually it will fail.

[katanarider]

On the untouched damping rod I removed from the pre forks there are only 2 holes, I don't know how many clicker positions you have but if it is 3 you would have 2 holes and a blank, Just as the post has 3 holes and a blank for a 4 position adjuster. Now if someone modified the damping rod on your bike that is a one off and will not count as a baseline.

Tmod... This needs to be addressed.
I know you are a very wise suspension expert but, there are 3 holes on the damping rod.

What year forks did you take apart ?

The forks I took apart are 100% untouched with only 12000 miles (hence the reason I bought them). They are from a 1991 model and have 3 numbers on the adjustment dial.
One hole on the damper rod is very, very tiny. Its almost the size of a pin hole.

[Tmod]

Tmod... This needs to be addressed.
I know you are a very wise suspension expert but, there are 3 holes on the damping rod.

What year forks did you take apart ?

The forks I took apart are 100% untouched with only 12000 miles (hence the reason I bought them). They are from a 1991 model and have 3 numbers on the adjustment dial.
One hole on the damper rod is very, very tiny. Its almost the size of a pin hole.

Well I don't know what to tell you as the ones I have are 2 hole, I got them from loudnlow here on the forums but I don't know exactly what year they are. I will take some pics later and post them up.

Tmod

[katanarider]

1991 model fork damper, 600cc

First picture...Damper Rod holes : Left #1 (smallest) and on the right #2 (slightly bigger)

Second picture...Damper rod holes : Left side #2 (middle hole) , Right side #3 (biggest hole)

[katanarider]

1991 600cc
Damper Rod #1 (smallest) and #3 (Biggest) settings

[Tmod]

#1 largest hole, #2 second hole, #3 no hole.

Since the part number is different for the 750 vs the 600 damper rods maybe I have a 750 set.

Tmod

[arsenic]

I can verify the pre 98 600 damper rod has 3 holes for sure. I have never messed with a pre 750 damper rod, so I have 0 clue on that.

[gradylewis]

Excellent writeup .

[Pugga]

Great write-up! Is this worth doing with just the new springs and oils? I'm not 100% comfortable with the drilling and brazing but don't want to waste my money if the cartridge emulator is really what makes or breaks this upgrade.

[squiggy]

Is this worth doing with just the new springs and oils?

If the existing springs are not calibrated for your weight, then yes.
If the springs are old and worn, then yes.
If the oil is old, then yes.


Make sure and use new fork oil seals. I went with Suzuki's own fork seals. I have put 11,000 miles since the rebuild and have not had any issues with the fork oil seals.

[Pugga]

If the existing springs are not calibrated for your weight, then yes.
If the springs are old and worn, then yes.
If the oil is old, then yes.


Make sure and use new fork oil seals. I went with Suzuki's own fork seals. I have put 11,000 miles since the rebuild and have not had any issues with the fork oil seals.

Thanks for the info! I'll give it a go. I could honestly answer yes to all 3 of those... I'm on a 2002 with all original equipment, oil included. I think I'll skip the emulators though, that seems like it might be beyond my comfort level at the moment (plus it's riding season and I can't have the bike down that long!).

[squiggy]

I could honestly answer yes to all 3 of those.

haha - I know what you mean.

I think I'll skip the emulators though, that seems like it might be beyond my comfort level at the moment.

The emulators are not a necessary upgrade, but they are a nice to have.

[Pugga]

Squiggy, last couple question for you. I did the spring rate calculator on Racetech's website and came up right in the middle of 2 spring rates, the .90 and the .95. With your .90 springs, do you have any regrets or wish you'd gone with stiffer springs? I have been losing weight, I'm at 185 and dropping so I'll get down to a weight where their calculator will tell me I need .90 kg/mm springs but just wondering if they're stiff enough or too stiff from someone who has them. I'll be doing springs only, no cartridges yet.

Lastly, did you do anything to the rear or just upgrade the forks and still on a stock rear?

Thanks

[squiggy]

do you have any regrets or wish you'd gone with stiffer springs?

If it was me, I'd go with the stiffer springs as I still have some fork dive and I have a lot of other add-ons to my bike that the calculator can not factor in, but that's just me.

The purpose of springs, or even the whole suspension for that matter, is not to provide soft cushion comfort but to keep the wheel(s) on the road, to aid in providing traction for the tires.

Lastly, did you do anything to the rear or just upgrade the forks and still on a stock rear?

A few years back I bought one of the last remaining Ohlins rear shock available.

The 750 rear shock is fully adjustable. What can be done is have Tmod (Terry) either rebuild yours, if you have a 750, or purchase one from him. He cab custom rebuild the OEM shock to your needs. He is a member here and you can PM if you wish. He is active in this suspension section as that is what he deals with.

[steves]

Try contacting resident suspension guru tmod. IN fact he might be able to get you a better price on the parts.