KOTM Jan 2009 Shifty
 

Welcome to the KatRiders.com forums.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   KatRiders.com > Service Department > Bodyshop

Bodyshop Got a tweaked piece of plastic? Some roughed up paint? Here's the place to get some tips on repairing your Suzuki Katana.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-16-2010, 03:14 PM   #21
teddy
The No Money Modder
Supporting Member

 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: nw ohio
Posts: 7,516


KOTM Nov 2007

Default

meh, took me too long...everyone else covered it...
__________________


Help Support Katriders.com via Motorcyclegear.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by EmpiGTV
You know why you shouldn't hold in your farts? Because they'll travel up your spine and into your brain. That's where shitty ideas come from.
teddy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2010, 03:19 PM   #22
steves
Argh
Supporting Member
 
steves's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: 19403
Posts: 30,610

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojoe View Post
well actually, I have sprayed the base on bike parts over a period of time, and have on more than one occasion applied the clear weeks after the fact....sometimes even months, and never had an issue.

Flash is when the chemicals like reducer have all evaporated out of the base coat. essentially, it means when it is dry.
I don't doubt that for a second. But I would stress people just follow the directions that came with the paint system
__________________
-Steve



Welcome to KatRiders.com! Click here to register
Don't forget to check the Wiki! http://katriders.com/wiki

steves is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2010, 03:27 PM   #23
sonosam
Kat Master
 
sonosam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 2,865

Default

I have never done a base coat - clear coat paint job.

Now with that disclaimer out of the way, I will take the advice in this thread for when I do end up painting the bike as well as the advice of the people in the store that sells the paint and the directions on the paint itself.

To Mojoe about the rough surface promoting a bonding reaction, you are correct. It is basic chemistry. More surface area = quicker/better reaction.

Other than that I have nothing useful to add to this thread. Sorry.

Marc
__________________


"Man is least himself when he talks in his own person. Give him a mask, and he will tell you the truth." Oscar Wilde

“Socialism never took root in America because the poor see themselves not as an exploited proletariat but as temporarily embarrassed millionaires.” John Steinbeck
sonosam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2010, 03:37 PM   #24
Mojoe
I let "things" slide
 
Mojoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Maple Grove, Qc
Posts: 18,838
eBay ID: riven38

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by steves View Post
I don't doubt that for a second. But I would stress people just follow the directions that came with the paint system
well steve, the thing is that when the paint manufacturer (on rattle cans) say to clear within 24 hours...well I truly believe that much of that is more of a suggestion than anything, for the simple fact that leaving it too long creates the risk of damaging or contaminating the base coat.

base coat is basically like primer, in the way it cures. it dries very fast. and if you let it set say 20 hours....well, in 40 hours there is absolutely no difference. it has cure the moment the last of the reducer has evaporated out of it.

take the custom painters for example.....the ones who do striping, airbrushing and other fancy stuff. just as often it is all done over the base coat. this is done for a reason...such as if you screw it up, all you have to do is shoot another coat of base over it and start over, as opposed to sanding it all off the clear coat. It just makes a niccer job when it is all under the clear. and these guys don't get all that extensive work done in 40 minutes....and often not in 24 hours.

in a nutshell, there really is no problem waiting weeks even to clear base coat, providing you stick your parts in a plastic bag, or make sure nothing gets on it.
Mojoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2010, 03:52 PM   #25
Astro4x4
Kat Champion
 
Astro4x4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,043
eBay ID: Astro4x4

Default

We used the term colour sanding back in the 80's but where shooting single stage paints so you were sanding the colour when you cut and polished.
__________________
2000 Katana 600
2011 Triumph Sprint GT
__________________________________________
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find ya handy."
____________________________________________
Astro4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2010, 04:00 PM   #26
Mojoe
I let "things" slide
 
Mojoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Maple Grove, Qc
Posts: 18,838
eBay ID: riven38

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Astro4x4 View Post
We used the term colour sanding back in the 80's but where shooting single stage paints so you were sanding the colour when you cut and polished.
well we used to sand single stage paint back then as well. metal flake was the fad for a while, and the only way to apply metal flake was to mix it with clear and shoot over regular enamel. we just called it sanding, though...and not color sanding. those jobs never looked all that great seeing as the clear back then was very prone to yellowing.
Mojoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 12:38 PM   #27
bob393
Kat Champion
 
bob393's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Goshen, NY
Posts: 1,922
eBay ID: bob393

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojoe View Post
OK....I am going to say this one last time. YOU DO NOT WET SAND YOUR BASE COAT BEFORE APPLYING THE CLEAR!!! http://www.easypaintyourcar.com/CarP...tcarpaint.html
I believe you
__________________
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110816

1994 GSX750F Katana with:

Michelin Pilot Road 2's, 120/70, 150/70,
Race Tech 1.0kg springs with 25mm preload,
R6 rear shock w/14.3kg Eibach spring,
1" Soupys bar risers, Zero Gravity windshield,
RK GXW Gold Chain, My own fender eliminator,
3BBB turn signal mirrors,
Black painted seat and rear trim,
Nelson-Rigg CL-135, CL-150, CL-950.

bob393 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2011, 03:26 PM   #28
aegis
Squid
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: selkirk, NY
Posts: 39

Default

Good advice mojoe, i ruined what was a great paint job with lots of depth by following the advice of a friend that said you were supposed to wet sand before putting on the clear, went from a three dimensional wonder to a mushy looking blehhhh by the time the clear was done. NEVER AGAIN sand basecoat!!!!!
aegis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2011, 08:43 PM   #29
Krusher
Poser
 
Krusher's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Alabama
Posts: 75

Default

I painted my son's first pocket bikw and when I sprayed the clear on it in a few places the paint wrinkled a little. May have been a difference in the paint and clear I used (not the same brand) but after it had dried and cured for quite some time I wet sanded then buffed it out and it smoothed right up and shined like new. It even looked deeper than before I done it. I've never sanded before clearing. You can make even cheap rattle can paint look good with proper prepping and care.
__________________

Sometimes life throws you a few curves...lean with it ! !
Krusher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2011, 03:45 AM   #30
slowgsxf600
Squid
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 47

Default

It depends on WHERE you paint it. If I am in a clean booth I shouldn't have to sand anything. But if I'm in a barn, most likely I'll have to sand some bigger dirt chunks/hair/bugs out and dust back over it. 800 to 1000 grit should be fine for this unless you are using waterbourne paint. Adhesion shouldn't be a problem if flash times are correct per paint manufacter. After everythings cured just sand the nibs out out of the clear if you want to keep the peel, or sand everything for a smooth finish.
slowgsxf600 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Reply

  KatRiders.com > Service Department > Bodyshop

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Advice Anyone ? eosrules Mechanics 101 25 11-14-2008 04:46 PM
Used Kat need advice rugby01 Mechanics 101 11 10-10-2006 10:02 PM
In need of some KR advice jp1 Suzuki Katana Talk 15 07-02-2005 12:56 AM

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Katriders.com, Copyright ©2004 - 2017

Like Cigars? Check out Vitola.org