Clutch...Is this an issue???

[Cap N Jones]

Hi all...
My clutch seems to engage at the very end of the lever's release. I love it this way...allows me to get through gears rapidly with very little squeeze of the lever needed to shift the bike.

However, I came across an opinion that this is a sign that I will soon need to replace the clutch. Is this true? Is there any harm being done by me riding this way?

Thanks for any advice.

[Kreylyn]

Hi all...
My clutch seems to engage at the very end of the lever's release. I love it this way...allows me to get through gears rapidly with very little squeeze of the lever needed to shift the bike.

However, I came across an opinion that this is a sign that I will soon need to replace the clutch. Is this true? Is there any harm being done by me riding this way?

Thanks for any advice.

That alone is not a sign of your clutches condition, or how long it has to last, it's just a description of how your clutch cable is currently adjusted. They are adjustable...

Now, some adjustments if too far out will cause problems and premature wear... Like having it so far out that you never actually fully engage the clutch and it's always slipping a little.... that will wear out a clutch pretty quick.

Krey

[Cap N Jones]

Thanks Kreylyn. I have toyed with the adjustment at the lever, but found that it made the lever feel "soft" and caused some "play" before the lever would feel like it was pulling the cable. I have not attempted to adjust from the clutch end.

I trust your opinion...is this something that I should do?

[Kreylyn]

It's only a problem if the clutch isn't fully engaging because the adjustment is letting it slip from being too close to the end of the lever range. You should have a little movement of the cable before there is any change to the friction of the clutch. If any movement at all has an effect on it, then it's too far out...

I personally have my friction zone at the end as well... light quick pulls allow me to shift gears quickly with no issues. My bike has been this way since I bought it new... in 93.

Krey

[Cap N Jones]

Thanks again. I decided to make a minor adjustment at the clutch end...about a 1/8 turn has made the lever a bit more stiff (funny...service manual recommended removing left fairing, but I found it wasn't necessary after lower). There is definitely no slipping occurring, so I think I'm good to go. You have eased my conscience. Now time for a test-ride!

[Cap N Jones]

Back from ride...clutch definitely slipping when I got on it (any gear). I didn't back the adjuster screw out (as suggested in manual), prior to tightening 1/8 turn. Could this be the reason for slipping, or is it time to think about an overhaul?

[JHONNY_ICE_420]

the cable is WAY too tight or the clutch is gone. try loosening the cable some and see if the clutch still slips. The rule of thumb on clutches is that you should put a nickel between the clutch lever and perch, then adjust out all of the slack. If it's too tight for too long, you'll kill the throwout bearing and you'll be pulling the clutch apart anyway to get to it.
BTW: the adjustments on the engine end of the cable are MAJOR adjustments -- large changes. the adjustment at the lever is for MINOR changes.

[phroziac]

I think you read the manual wrong. you need to back your clutch cable off a bit so theres a bit of play, loosen the locknut, loosen the screw a couple turns(on the clutch cable cover), then tighten it until it gets hard to turn and then back it off 1/8 to 1/2 iirc....then adjust the cable for proper play....should be just enough to be sure that theres no tension on the cable unless you pull the lever

but you shouldve never messed with that because it doesnt sound like it was that far out of adjustment in the first place..

also, atleast on my bike, the perfect adjustment is the one that just barely engages the clutch safety switch to let you start the bike..hehe...

It sure sounds like your clutch was adjusted fine in the first place.

[scottynoface]

You also want a bit of freeplay before the cable disengages the clutch on the way in. This ensures that the clutch will completely engage with the lever all the way out. I like to use a quarter to gauge my play, if it fits in the gap before the cable starts pulling, I'm good to go.

[phroziac]

You also want a bit of freeplay before the cable disengages the clutch on the way in. This ensures that the clutch will completely engage with the lever all the way out. I like to use a quarter to gauge my play, if it fits in the gap before the cable starts pulling, I'm good to go.

Hehe that setting is the one that just barely lets the clutch safety switch allow the started to engage on my bike. Switch is probably outta adjustment, but its a nice indicator. hah.

[sonofnothing]

so my bike has the slipping gear problem too... about 5-7k rpm it slips... i messed with the fine adjuster on the lever and i got the wobbly play out of the lever, but that was not even moving the cable in the first place... now, its tigher, and as soon as i pull the clutch back the tiniest bit, the cable is being pulled... i am guessing that is why the gears are slipping? i need to take the clutch cover off and back the screw out some or tighten it in? i dont want to guess unless ill feel it as im turning the screw because i dont want to do irreversible damage....

[Pdubowner]

There are 3 places to adjust the clutch...

I'll list them in the order of most known:
1: Cable Tension at the lever on the handle bar.
2: Cable Tension at the sprocket Cover.
(The most often ignored)
3: The clutch release rod tension at the release mechanism on the sprocket cover.
Page 1:12 & 13 in the Haynes Katana Service Manual Covers the process. ( http://www.metal-fab.net/files/98~02%20Katana%20Service%20Manual.pdf )

Realistically you should start clutch adjustment with 3, then 2, then 1.

I had a clutch slip issue on my GSXR very similar to whats described here and it turned out to be the release rod tension was too tight. (Because I replaced a cracked/flexing sprocket cover with one in good working order, and didn't adjust it) I backed off the adjuster screw until there was the slightest bit of play between it and the rod, took up the slack in the cable at the sprocket cover, then did final adjustment of lever height at the handle bar. GOLDEN!

For reference:
Page 2:12 Image 5.23b shows the clutch release rod directly to the left of the front sprocket. Also Pictured in 2:34 image 18.4b
2:36 Images 18.20a, 18.20b and 18.20c show the release mechanism from the inside of the sprocket cover...Its very simple, as the cable is pulled the release mechanism rotates up and out and pushes the rod toward the engine which releases tension on the clutch disks...The lock nut holds the height adjustment in place, and the flat head screw adjusts the height of the whole assembly...If this is too tight your clutch WILL SLIP EVEN WITH PROPER SLACK IN THE LEVER!!!, if its too loose you'll run out of cable adjustment before the clutch fully disengages.

Don't be afraid, just take it one step at a time.