[ygolohcysp]

I've only done it with the rubber pieces on the engine. But then, I've only done it on my bike that I bought new and everything fit well. I put the bottoms of the carbs' tubes in the rubber pieces, and then rock the carbs to get them in. If it's cold where you're working on them, then the rubber might not be as pliable as it could be. Make sure all the clamps are plenty loose.

[y2ktj]

Yeah that's what the manual says. I'm resisting grabbing the hammer! lol

Success! Had to take the screws right out of the clamps.

[y2ktj]

Just want to take a second and thank all you guys for the advice you've shared and everyone whose posted on the site. I'm a total newb and have learned alot so far from you guys and look forward to learning more as I work on the bike.

And a question on the upper fairing mounts. Couple pics since threads are boring without them Am I right in thinking these rubber peices go in the frame with this bracket.

[Lachie]

Yep
Thread a bolt/screw M6? into the ferule and push the ferule to the end then push the whole thing into the hole. If you push the ferule to much it will come out the other end but you need it down there to get the rubber past the hole.

[y2ktj]

I'm guessing the ferule is the threaded part? Seems like a weird way to mount something. Obviously the rubber is for some flexibility but curious why it isn't hard mounted with some rubber at the fairing bolt. Is this common on all bikes?

Got the airbox on and had a look at the old filter and its covered in oil. Going to replace the filter but wondering if that's the way they are? I have a reusable k&n filter on the jeep and have to oil it after cleaning but this one doesn't look reusable. Are stock filters dry? Should I be worried about the oil?

Put some gas in the tank and sloshed it around and emptied through the fill hole and came out spotless. Was worried there might be some rust in there after sitting so long but nothing I can see with a flash light. Should I be doing anything to the petcock before trying to start it?

[katanarider]

The intake boots that fit between the carbs and the engine should be numbered. They fit in order 1, 2, 3, 4 from left to right. They bolt to the engine first, before installing the carbs. The rubber boots on the air box some times get twisted around inside the plastic air box. You should be able to rotate them to get a better fitment, although I've never liked the way they fit, personally. Thats the main reason I went with pod air filters. With a melted/bent air box one gasket may fit, but on the other side of the box, it won't. Lots of people talk shit and say that katanas don't run right with air filter pods. They can all suck my ______ ! I've had them for 8 yrs and have never had one single issue. Not jetted and no spacers with stock dual exhaust I should add.

[y2ktj]

never took the boots off so I assume they are in the right place. Either way I got the carb on and didn't bring out the hammer. The airbox wasn't to difficult to get on.

And katrider I flushed the carbs with fuel as you suggested but it didn't flow out the drain hole as I thought it would. It did come out the hole but a trickle. It's a small hole but should it flow out?

[Lachie]

I think most people find it easier to put the air box on first then put the carbs on the bike I certainly did and it is easier to get the airbox boots all fit on the carb properly.

I also use a heat gun and red rubber grease (love that stuff) to get the carbs on. warm the rubbers and get then nice and piable

The stock air filter is paper and should not be oiled yes the K&N ones can be cleaned and reoiled and should be.

[katanarider]

And katrider I flushed the carbs with fuel as you suggested but it didn't flow out the drain hole as I thought it would. It did come out the hole but a trickle. It's a small hole but should it flow out?

I would hang a bottle of gas above the bike with the fuel level marked with a marker or a piece of tape. Either stand the bike up while sitting on it, or just hold it evenly/up right, so all the bowls get filled at the same time/equally. The gas SHOULD come out about as fast as the laws of physics allow LOL I'd say use common sense. If one drain comes out faster than the others, then there could be blockage of some sort.
EDIT: Honestly, marking the gas level isn't really going to do you any good here. I just like knowing how much gas all bowls hold, for reference.

Since you seem new to motorcycles, some thing else I thought about earlier...you do know not to use regular car oil, right ?
And...
Don't use spray carb cleaner unless you don't care about it eating your rubber gaskets and causing vacuum leaks and over heating, etc...

[y2ktj]

manual says SF or higher 10w40.

[y2ktj]

Google answers the questions. Thanks for pointing that out katrider

[katanarider]

I've had time to think about the drain rate... So, there are two gas inlets on the carbs. Those two inlets are going to fill the bowls they're are directly connected to the fastest, and thus draining those two bowls the fastest which results in the others only draining with a trickle because they have yet to fill completely. Make sense ? So, plug the two quick fills in order to get the other two full, then drain those guys.

[y2ktj]

I get what you're saying and makes sense. Carbs already on, battery is charged and got the correct oil in. So I followed what you posted earlier about steps to take for first start. Although I'm not sure what position the petcock dial should be. Arrow to the front off? To the back on?

After all this time I gotta say it was nice to see even just the headlight and gauges on. Push the button and starter cranks but no action. Was late so tomorrow I'll check for spark and fuel. The plugs need replacing for sure and the carbs need cleaning. Now that I've heard it turn over I guess I'll give it a go.

[katanarider]

There is no "Off" !
There is a "Reserve" , "Prime", and just plain "On".
The petcock is activated with vacuum from the engine. Thats what that little nipple is on the very back side of the petcock is. It hooks to a rubber hose attached to the carbs.
If you see gas come out of the petcock with out any sort of vacuum on the the rear nipple, that means its on "Prime". And, if your carbs float needles are bad, then gas will over flood the carbs and drain down the cylinder walls filling the crankcase. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on your oil level for that very reason.
I don't ever bother mine. I just leave mine on "Reserve" all the time and I can't really remember which way the arrow is supposed to point.
Just make sure the dial or arrow is in the vertical/straight up and down position and it will not be on prime. Not to be rude, but in the future, use the search function here on katriders.com. You'll find just about any thing you can ever imagine.

[y2ktj]

Thanks for the info. I do plenty of searches but sometimes I need the proper terminology for a search or I end up looking through tons of threads. Still learn something even then. When I ask a question it is just a way for me to get my thoughts out. Don't necessarily expect an answer from you guys. Not looking to waste anyone's time answering questions that have been asked a million times before. Read my posts and answer if you guys want or don't do either.

Onto the bike. Took the tank off and there is fuel in the hoses on the front and back of the petcock but doesn't look like any has been in the suction line. Have spark so something with the carb.