[Aaron-71]

Hey, did you ever get this figured out?

Not quite.

I was waiting on the K&L rebuild kit. Got it in the mail, rebuilt my petcock, reinstalled it in the tank, just haven't installed the tank on the bike to try it yet.

I've been distracted with helping an elderly neighbour and seeing someone who might turn out to be a girlfriend (the two are mutually exclusive!).

Tomorrow night I'm going to reinstall the tank and see how my "new" petcock works. Stay tuned!

[shpielers]

I've been distracted with helping an elderly neighbour and seeing someone who might turn out to be a girlfriend (the two are mutually exclusive!).

[Aaron-71]

It was definitely a petcock issue!!! Got my petcock working last night after a bit of fighting with my "rebuild" I did last week (I rebuilt it wrong!). Placed the plastic rotating selector for fuel incorrectly in the petcock housing. PRI wasn't PRI, ON wasn't ON... etc.

Reinstalled properly after some fighting and figuring out. I didn't take enough pictures oddly enough! Should have taken a pic of the way the plastic selector was when I took everything apart.

After inspecting my OEM petcock valve/gasket for vacuum, it looks like the use of fuel stabilizer actually wrecked my petcock vacuum valve.

How else can I get around using fuel stabilizer for winter storage? My petcock was in PRISTINE condition, with the exception of the vacuum valve (because of the dried up fuel/stabilizer on it which made it crusty and rigid).

Regardless, my petcock is now working (and my Kat). Threw the tank on the bike with the petcock properly working, and it fired right up after 30 seconds on PRI.

Bike isn't quite running the way I want it to be (might have to do a 3rd sync ), but at least she's running now.

EDIT: This thread's title should be changed from: Turns over but not firing (which is a fuel issue!!)

[maniac1886]

Definitely do a 3rd sync. having an empty bowl and trying to sync them would throw things wayyy off. There ARE places that sell ethanol FREE fuel. Its generally more expensive but is great for storage. Most boat marinas have a pump with ethanol free gas. A google search would tell you where in your area you can find an ethanol free pump though. Also, You can drain your bowls (and if your really feeling froggy, blow out the jets with compressed air to get residual gas out of the circuits). Fill your tank to prevent further rust as i assume, its not sealed any more. When winter is over, drain the tank and refill it with fresh gas. Thats what i do. Either use the old gas for fire starter, our pour it around the outside of raised flower beds, fences, and other places that require the use of a weed whip to trim, and then in the summer time, you wont have to dick with those hard to cut spots!

[El Chakas]

had the same issue with my kat and turned out to be the petcock also, then started bogging down on me and turning off on me. then i left it on prime and ima back to the same problem. I know i prob flooded he cards and need to prob clean them again but ugh just the thought of doing it.. hopefully i get it back and running soon.

[Aaron-71]

Well balls...

I really need to research some of these fuel additives before I use them in my Kat. No wonder I had to rebuild my petcock ...

Shelf life of Sta-bil is 2 years ladies and gents... I've had my bottle of Sta-bil for over 5 years.

I'm lucky I didn't gunk up my Kat really badly.

[Aaron-71]

Reviving this thread...

So I've got a fuel bottle attached to my Kat. Trying to sync the carbs.

I had my Kat starting without issue when the tank was attached (a couple of days ago). Took the tank back off to finish my wiring job, and install some OEM throttle cables (both are now complete).

Go to sync my carbs while the tank is off, and no dice! WILL NOT FIRE!! AGAIN!!!!

What gives????

Here's what I've checked over:
1) Each spark plug for spark. There's a spark when grounded to the frame (1 through 4).

2) All hoses/attachments are connected from the carbs to the engine. Triple checked this.

3) Sync tool (Carb Pro) is hooked up, so the vacuum plugs are technically "installed" and blocking off Carbs 1-3. See 4) for Carb #4.

4) Vacuum from carb #4 is working (took the sync hose off and put it against my mouth while trying to start, it's pulling air intermittently, so it's working (correct?))

5) Airbox is installed but clamps are not tight (not necessary).

6) Both hoses to the airbox are currently installed.

7) After pulling the plugs, there's a slight smell of gas on them. So gas essentially IS getting to the cylinders, I just don't know how much (spark plugs were not soaked, but I could smell gas on them... definitely still dry though).


I'm going to throw my tank back on my Kat just for shits and see if it starts.

First it would only start with the fuel bottle (petcock was gunked up). After that, I needed to replace the throttle cables. It started with the tank on, no problem. Now I throw the bottle back on after replacing the throttle cables and the bottle won't work.... WHAT GIVES??!?!?!

[shpielers]

So #4 line pulls vaccum - are you blocking that line while trying to start? If not you'll have a big ol air leak.

[92xjunker]

By chance did you unplug the coils? Even by accident. If you crossed the white and black, that would be an issue. What is your coil input voltage while trying to start? 11v+? Does starting fluid work?

[Aaron-71]

So #4 line pulls vaccum - are you blocking that line while trying to start? If not you'll have a big ol air leak.

Not blocking, but it is hooked up to my carb sync tool (Carb Pro), so it's got nowhere to go.

By chance did you unplug the coils? Even by accident. If you crossed the white and black, that would be an issue. What is your coil input voltage while trying to start? 11v+? Does starting fluid work?

The coils have not been touched. They have been left alone 100%. I've even labelled them with a sharpie marker so I can't screw them up (from previous repairs - valve clearance @ 10,000).

Call me an idiot if you like, but I'm having some difficulty doing this test... Not very often I use a multimeter.

Got my multimeter on hand. Fresh battery in it. Set to 20V reading. Red wire on COM. Black wire on Volts/Ohms.

What I did:

Connected the red multimeter wire to the top plug (orange) on the left coil (cylinders 3/4). Connected the black multimeter wire to the bottom plug (white) on the left coil (cylinders 3/4).

Set the multimeter down and tried turning over the bike.

The multimeter flashed a reading of 11.79 at one point in time, but otherwise it was blank. Not sure if there's a bad connection there or something... the plugs look dull grey inside.

Edit: As a side note, my Kat did burp over 3-4 times (separate occasions) as I was trying to turn it over with the multimeter attached.

Is it possible that I flooded the ever-living shit out of my kat?

[92xjunker]

Hold it!!!!! If you have the coils hooked 1-2/3-4 that is the problem. Left 1-4 right 2-3. FYI bike reference is in the riding possition- ie shifter is on the left. Put the meter on 20v black to com red to volt. Red lead on the Orange wire the other to the frame or negative source, should read bat voltage, hit the start button voltage will drop, should be no lower than 11v for a strong start as the voltage drops starting becomes more difficult.

[Aaron-71]

Hold it!!!!! If you have the coils hooked 1-2/3-4 that is the problem. Left 1-4 right 2-3. FYI bike reference is in the riding possition- ie shifter is on the left. Put the meter on 20v black to com red to volt. Red lead on the Orange wire the other to the frame or negative source, should read bat voltage, hit the start button voltage will drop, should be no lower than 11v for a strong start as the voltage drops starting becomes more difficult.

Okay, so I was wrong. (from riding position) Left is 1-4 and Right is 2-3. I mistakenly wrote 1-2 3-4.

I did this:

"Put the meter on 20v black to com red to volt. Red lead on the Orange wire the other to the frame or negative source, ...should be no lower than 11v for a strong start"

Still can't get a proper reading off my ignition coil. However, my Kat started...


This is getting ridiculous.

So the Kat starts on its own and its revving up to 6,000rpm without me touching the throttle.

Only one good thing has come from my Kat starting... the carbs appear to be synced at 4,000 rpm ("idle" dropped down to 4 grand temporarily and I checked the sync at that point. Seemed nearly perfectly even across the board.)

So while I've got my tank off, I really want to check the coil... but nothing is working here. Maybe my multimeter is just straight up faulty?

[92xjunker]

6000 is a throttle or choke issue. Make sue a boot clamp isn't catching the throttle and the plungers for the choke are seating.

[Aaron-71]

6000 is a throttle or choke issue. Make sue a boot clamp isn't catching the throttle and the plungers for the choke are seating.

I'll check this on Sunday night or Monday morning. Heading to bed and out of town tomorrow.

Thanks for the help so far junker. Hopefully it's just a throttle/choke issue!