[The CyberPoet]

You need to check the neutral switch for continuity, not for power

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[squiggy]

You need to check the neutral switch for continuity, not for power

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

Please explain.

My understanding and also reading over at the12volt.com web site is the the coil needs to be energized (powered) by, I'm assuming, 12 volts.

I already checked continuity when I was troubleshotting the problem. I disconnected the plug and connected the multimeter's (in the continuity mode) red wire to the plug and the black to the side cover bolt. (I least I think that's how I did it.) I received both an audible and visual confirmation.

Another thing, I know I have the neutral switch wire as well. When I disconnect the plug the "N" light does not come on.

[StevieB]

Well, I like oil coolers well enough, I guess, but wouldn't say I was a FAN...

[squiggy]

Well, I like oil coolers well enough, I guess, but wouldn't say I was a FAN...

Go away, you're no help.

[BarMatt80]

maybe use the neutral switch as a ground? i am stabbing in the dark, I think I personally would use the california fan if I hooked one up.

[squiggy]

Well now I need to revise and rethink what I'm doing. I just went out to double check on that offending switch and I'm getting another reading.

When the transmission is in neutral I'm getting 117 millivolts now. When the the transmission is in first gear I get 11 volts. The other two wires that come up from the neutral switch stay at 5 volts whether or not the transmission is in gear or in neutral.

So now I'm thinking of just tapping near the actual neutral light at the instrument pannel to get power. It should be a simple 12V light. I was originaly thinking of just tapping the power from where the wires come up from the neutral switch itself but I guess the wireing harness is doing something else to the signal when the switch plugs into the system.

[squiggy]

maybe use the neutral switch as a ground? i am stabbing in the dark, I think I personally would use the california fan if I hooked one up.

I just went to check on that and no-go. There is no ground contiuity when in neutral from that wire. That would have been an acceptable alternative.




I can't easily trace the blue wire all the way to the instrument panel. I tried unwrapping the black tape on the wireing harness just before it connects to the instrument panel but I don't see the same blue color wire. So I'm going to have leave it as-is for now.

It works but I have to manualy turn it on every time as opposed to the neutral switch activating the fan relay. And then I would have the manual switch to turn it off during mornings or cooler times of the year.

[BarMatt80]

use the kick stand sensor. i think that was in my mind. don't know. Do you have a california kat with all the emission stuff on it? if not, I don't know how the fan works on them, but might be able to use existing wires.

[squiggy]

use the kick stand sensor. i think that was in my mind. don't know.

The kick stand switch will not work for what I have in mind. What I want is to wire into the neutral switch to power the relay that turns on the fan.

When the bikes in neutral, for example stoped at a signal light, the fan will automaticaly turn on to keep air flowing through the oil cooler. When the light turns green, put the transmission in first, the fan turns off because I'll be moving again.

Do you have a california kat with all the emission stuff on it? if not, I don't know how the fan works on them, but might be able to use existing wires.

Yes I have the Cali model, but power to that plug is always on even when the bike has been left overnite. The computer circuitry must use the ground to shut off the fan after it has cooled the carb float bowls for xx amount of time.

Don't hold me to that because I was turning the ignition on and off again, yet without starting the bike, in order to test the wiring. But either way that plug won't work for what I have in mind.