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So, Dolphins got me a really nice A* 2 piece suit for christmas, and I've been putting off caring for it because I wanted to make sure that whatever I did to it, I did correctly. What follows is the synthesis of my internet research on cleaning and caring for leather. Most of the information came from product-based websites, so I've attempted to remove most of the sales and marketing mumbo-jumbo from the real content.
Leather Care
Good leather care is equivalent to good skin care. Leather consists of thousands and thousands of intertwined fibers, with penetrable pores throughout—just like skin.
Proper maintenance starts with cleaning the fibers. Cleaning removes fiber-severing abrasives and pore clogging dirt and dust, both of which will breakdown the leather over time and give it a less than pleasing texture and appearance. Brushing the surface lightly with a moderatly stiff brush will open up the pores of the leather letting your treatments soak in. Agitate, don't scrub.
The next step, probably even more important, is conditioning. This nourishes and moisturizes to lubricate individual fibers, keeping them from becoming brittle and dry. It replaces essential, natural oils that evaporate. How can you tell a good conditioner? A good conditioner will offer UV protection. Like human skin, ultra-violet rays will quickly cause deterioration of the leather and shorten its lifespan significantly. A good conditioner will be absorbed into the leather, not sit atop the surface or leave residue behind. The surface should not be oily after application. The very best conditioners are pH balanced, have stain repellants, waterproofing agents to protect from accidents.
Leather Facts
* Leather is tear and puncture-resistant.
* Leather protects from heat, cold and wind; and it repels moisture.
* Leather apparel stretches and molds to your body, yet at the same time retains its shape.
* Leather breathes -- that's what keeps it soft and supple.
Leather Protection
* Use a high-quality water and stain repellent to help prevent water stains and soiling. Look for a formula that is free of silicone and wax. These ingredients break down the natural oils in leather.
Apply immediately after purchasing your new leather item, and every two or three months with regular use.
**Inexpensive leather cleaners and conditioners will contain petroleum distillates, silicon or silicon oils, and gloss agents that deliver an inferior, greasy finish that does nothing for the leather, and transfers to anything that the leather comes in contact with. These chemicals are harmful to your leather.
* Avoid using cleaning fluid, shoe cream, saddle soap and mink oil. These products contain ingredients that may damage leather.
**It’s a popular notion that saddle soap is a good cleaner and conditioner. It is neither. Saddle soap originates from the 1800s as a product used in the final stages of tanning hides. A currier used the emulsion of oil in soap (saddle soap) to work into the leather to soften and condition it. The reason it doesn’t make a good conditioner is because it’s alkaline, not pH balanced. There are better modern emulsions which penetrate, soften and condition with greater ease and stability.
Alkalinity can abrade both the hide itself and the stitching which binds it. With all the great leather care products available at market; there is simply no reason to opt for saddle soap.
* Test any protection and cleaning products on a hidden area of the leather.
* Don't keep heavy objects, such as key chains, in your pockets. Doing so will stretch the leather.
* Avoid applying hair sprays and perfumes while wearing leather.
* Don't attach pins, adhesive badges or tape to leather.
* Repair hems with a small amount of rubber cement.
Cleaning
* Gently blot liquid stains with a clean cloth.
* Winter salt stains your leather, wipe with a clean, damp cloth and dry naturally.
* Visit a professional leather cleaner for more serious stains. Normal dry cleaning methods will remove essential oils, causing the leather to crack, fade and shrink. A cleaner who specializes in leather care will use a different method to clean and condition the leather. Even this special process may cause slight variations in color, texture, and shape; so it is important to clean matching garments together.
Care When Wet
* If your leather becomes wet, allow it to dry at room temperature. (Never put leather in the dryer.) Then apply a Protectant. Buff suede with a soft towel to restore the nap.
Storage
* Store your leather coat or jacket on a wide wooden, plastic or padded hanger to help maintain its shape.
* Store leather in a well-ventilated, cool, dry place. Avoid hot areas, such as attics; or damp areas, such as cellars.
* Cover your leather with breathable cloth, like cotton sheets, when storing. Plastic bags or coverings will cause excessive drying.
* Wrinkles and creases in leather should hang out. If ironing is necessary, place heavy brown paper over the leather and use a cool to medium iron. Take care not to overheat the leather, which will cause it to shine.
* Avoid exposing leather to direct sunlight or heat for prolonged periods of time.
Now, all that said, I settled on getting a set from eBay of Lexol cleaner and conditioner. I'm planning to try it out with one of my older jackets before I use any of it on the suit.
I'm still searching for a waterproofing agent. I'm thinking I may go with the product that Wilson's sells because they claim no bad stuff in it.
Leather Care
Good leather care is equivalent to good skin care. Leather consists of thousands and thousands of intertwined fibers, with penetrable pores throughout—just like skin.
Proper maintenance starts with cleaning the fibers. Cleaning removes fiber-severing abrasives and pore clogging dirt and dust, both of which will breakdown the leather over time and give it a less than pleasing texture and appearance. Brushing the surface lightly with a moderatly stiff brush will open up the pores of the leather letting your treatments soak in. Agitate, don't scrub.
The next step, probably even more important, is conditioning. This nourishes and moisturizes to lubricate individual fibers, keeping them from becoming brittle and dry. It replaces essential, natural oils that evaporate. How can you tell a good conditioner? A good conditioner will offer UV protection. Like human skin, ultra-violet rays will quickly cause deterioration of the leather and shorten its lifespan significantly. A good conditioner will be absorbed into the leather, not sit atop the surface or leave residue behind. The surface should not be oily after application. The very best conditioners are pH balanced, have stain repellants, waterproofing agents to protect from accidents.
Leather Facts
* Leather is tear and puncture-resistant.
* Leather protects from heat, cold and wind; and it repels moisture.
* Leather apparel stretches and molds to your body, yet at the same time retains its shape.
* Leather breathes -- that's what keeps it soft and supple.
Leather Protection
* Use a high-quality water and stain repellent to help prevent water stains and soiling. Look for a formula that is free of silicone and wax. These ingredients break down the natural oils in leather.
Apply immediately after purchasing your new leather item, and every two or three months with regular use.
**Inexpensive leather cleaners and conditioners will contain petroleum distillates, silicon or silicon oils, and gloss agents that deliver an inferior, greasy finish that does nothing for the leather, and transfers to anything that the leather comes in contact with. These chemicals are harmful to your leather.
* Avoid using cleaning fluid, shoe cream, saddle soap and mink oil. These products contain ingredients that may damage leather.
**It’s a popular notion that saddle soap is a good cleaner and conditioner. It is neither. Saddle soap originates from the 1800s as a product used in the final stages of tanning hides. A currier used the emulsion of oil in soap (saddle soap) to work into the leather to soften and condition it. The reason it doesn’t make a good conditioner is because it’s alkaline, not pH balanced. There are better modern emulsions which penetrate, soften and condition with greater ease and stability.
Alkalinity can abrade both the hide itself and the stitching which binds it. With all the great leather care products available at market; there is simply no reason to opt for saddle soap.
* Test any protection and cleaning products on a hidden area of the leather.
* Don't keep heavy objects, such as key chains, in your pockets. Doing so will stretch the leather.
* Avoid applying hair sprays and perfumes while wearing leather.
* Don't attach pins, adhesive badges or tape to leather.
* Repair hems with a small amount of rubber cement.
Cleaning
* Gently blot liquid stains with a clean cloth.
* Winter salt stains your leather, wipe with a clean, damp cloth and dry naturally.
* Visit a professional leather cleaner for more serious stains. Normal dry cleaning methods will remove essential oils, causing the leather to crack, fade and shrink. A cleaner who specializes in leather care will use a different method to clean and condition the leather. Even this special process may cause slight variations in color, texture, and shape; so it is important to clean matching garments together.
Care When Wet
* If your leather becomes wet, allow it to dry at room temperature. (Never put leather in the dryer.) Then apply a Protectant. Buff suede with a soft towel to restore the nap.
Storage
* Store your leather coat or jacket on a wide wooden, plastic or padded hanger to help maintain its shape.
* Store leather in a well-ventilated, cool, dry place. Avoid hot areas, such as attics; or damp areas, such as cellars.
* Cover your leather with breathable cloth, like cotton sheets, when storing. Plastic bags or coverings will cause excessive drying.
* Wrinkles and creases in leather should hang out. If ironing is necessary, place heavy brown paper over the leather and use a cool to medium iron. Take care not to overheat the leather, which will cause it to shine.
* Avoid exposing leather to direct sunlight or heat for prolonged periods of time.
Now, all that said, I settled on getting a set from eBay of Lexol cleaner and conditioner. I'm planning to try it out with one of my older jackets before I use any of it on the suit.
I'm still searching for a waterproofing agent. I'm thinking I may go with the product that Wilson's sells because they claim no bad stuff in it.
. Guess I'll go read tha label of the leather condition I just bought from the bike shop a lil closer ....
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