steering wobble

[rschlegel]

I have my nook so no search ability. I have been dealing with some wobbling with the front end. 98 600. I know you should not let go of the bars at speed but you should still be able to. I feel like I have tried everything except changing out the bearings. New tires, balanced wheels, loosened all but top triple clamp and steering stem and bounced on it to try to get everything into a natural position, and have now tightened the steering stem spanner nut more ( I did loosen the upper triple and remove the top steering stem nut). I also use an alignment tool when I adjust the chain so I know the rear wheel is aligned. The bike has been down but does not look like any hard hit. Light scratches on muffler and obviously skid on the plastic katana emblem. No indents on steering stops.
I have been reluctant to do bearings in the stem as the bike only had 11,000 miles on it when I got it. Granted that was 15 years after it was built.
Steering moves smoothly, no catches turning left and right. Also no play in steering or front wheel.

So here are a couple questions. When you service the steering bearings, should you replace the races also? The bike now has almost 22,000 miles on it. What problems come up when working on this? It sounds like you can do it without special tools but what do you need if parts don't want to come out ( bearings / races )? How common is it for these parts to be difficult on a low mile but 17 year old bike?

[92xjunker]

Things to check. tires- wearing properly? Proper inflation on both? Brakes- warped rotors? Recheck alignment. There is a particular torque for the head bearings. If you're replacing them the race is pressed on, I don't change the race, unless I see wear on it.

[rschlegel]

All tire wear is good. The wobble occurs about 45 - 55 mph. Kind of smooths out after that. No problems with one hand on the bars. Any problems with the bearing removal to be prepared for?
Thanks

[92xjunker]

The only rough part is changing the race, it is pressed on. What I do is try to tap them out. If that fails I dremel it off by scoring it down the tube length, be real careful not to cut into the tube. This will relieve pressure on the race making it much easier to remove. To install it, I heat ithe tube with a heat gun and tap it on with a copper pipe and a hammer, wood will work,while the tube is hot but, the race is cool. Cool it with a rag in ice water. Install the bearing with marine grade grease. just get the parts first to save time. Inspect the bearings first for piting and broken cage and the race is perfectly smooth. It's real simple to pull the forks and look at the bearings, no need to completely remove the forks if you're inspecting, just drop them down low enough to inspect the lower bearing and race.

[shpielers]

Wheel bearings are easy to tap out and replace as well. If the steering stem ones don't do it, I'd look at those next.

[92xjunker]

Yeah..... Might want to check those too...

[rschlegel]

Sorry to be a pain, maybe it is because I've been up since 1:30am but the pics suck in the manual. Will or should the steering bearings come out easy or will any races be in the way to get the bearings out or off? It says the races should be polished with no indents. If they look good I would only need to replace the bearings and still use the existing races?

[92xjunker]

Mine just slid right off, no both bikes, the lower is pressed on. If the races are clean and level smooth, I don't change them.

[rschlegel]

Looks like I know what I will be doing next Saturday. Supposed to snow Saturday so I will go for a ride on Friday then do an oil change and then replace steering bearings on Saturday while its snowing. Supposed to be 55 on Sunday so maybe I will get to see if the new bearings fix it then.
Hopefully the next you hear from me on this is saying its done and riding smooth. (Crossed fingers).

[92xjunker]

Check the wheel bearings before you commit.

[rschlegel]

Will do.

[KAT TOY]

Mine just slide right off, no both bikes. If the races are clean and level smooth, you won't have to change them.

please. do yourself a favor and replace the bearings with tapered roller bearings. mine are Allballs. the races will have to come out. I used a long bolt with a large washer double nutted. that will reach the races to drive them out. DO NOT reuse bearing races on any bearing replacement. if the bearing is bad the race is bad. my bearings had a spot just off center that made my Kat track crooked. problem is now gone. the wobble I had was from a slightly bent front wheel. PS. the forks will have to come off.

[92xjunker]

The manual does state to replace all the parts

[rschlegel]

Tapered roller bearings are in the plans. Thought I would be able to get them locally since the size fits so many bikes but looks like I will be going online.

[ZukiFred]

I order all my bearings threw KR Member GSXFJim (http://katriders.com/vb/member.php?u=4359 ) great guy to deal with and great prices with fast shipping.
I just did the steering stem bearings in mine and if I was paying attention when I was putting it together I would have had no problems at all ( Don’t install lower bearing upside down. ) Here is a great vid on the process, I did remove the front tire but left the forks in the lower triple tree.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ozfh93CvBs

Wheel bearings are easy as well and 92xjunker has already done a great job at explaining that process.