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  • Clutch

    This is my first mite posting anything on this site.i bought a 89 kat 1100 it is my first bike and I am trying to do as much as I can by myself to save money.i am very mechanically inclined.i am having a problem with the clutch,no matter how much I bleed it,it will not completely disengage. I have replaced the hose,rebuilt the master and replaced the slave cylinder.would anyone have an idea as to what mite be the answer to my problem?

  • #2
    Buy a hand pump.


    Create suction/vacuum in the hose then shut the nipple. Its sort of difficult to keep the Mityvac on the nipple and shut it closed at the same time but you'll get it. Once the hose has negative pressure/vacuum inside it, try to pump the clutch lever and you should start feeling pressure build up. Once you begin to make pressure, be sure to close the nipple 3/4 the way through the purge/bleed to keep the vacuum inside the hose. You don't want the nipple to suck air back towards the master
    cylinder.
    Depending on the Mityvac, they can work better with out the little catch can some times. I just hooked mine directly to the purge valve/nipple with out the inline catch can. It will squirt brake fluid out the back of the pump so be prepared to make a mess and keep the fluid out your eyes.

    Let me know if it works.
    Last edited by katanarider; 01-24-2015, 04:45 PM.
    My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

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    • #3
      Have you inspected the clutch pack and basket?
      "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
      spammer police
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      If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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      • #4
        I have presure at the lever it oust won't completely diisengage.and I have not yet checked the clutch pack and basket yet but it appears that would be the next step.the bike had sat for four years prior to me buying it.

        What would I be looking for during inspection?
        Last edited by Allan Kiefer; 01-24-2015, 06:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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        • #5
          Grooves in the basket, plates and fibers not stuck together. The manual has all the specs. Which is downloadable from the wiki above.
          "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
          spammer police
          USAF veteran
          If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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          • #6
            Thanks for the info and direction.

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            • #7
              Clutch

              Ok opened the clutch up.clutch appears to be ok,but there apears to be some wear from the pressure disc springs on the spacers and a little wear on the hub sleeve from the springs as well where the pressure disc bolts to it. Could the wear on the spacers be preventing the pressure disc from completely disengaging ? And or may there be something else?

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              • #8
                I'm sure others know more about this area than myself but a picture would help me to understand.
                My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
                http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

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                • #9
                  I will try to post pic not sure how ?
                  The spacers are worn on 1side from the spring just not sure if that would efect the operation of the pressure disc.

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                  • #10
                    To post a pic click the blue "Post Reply" button on the lower left. Inside the reply window there is a paper clip icon to the right of the white smiley face. From there you just upload your pictures.
                    I've only taken my clutch plate off one time and that was years ago. I'm just saying it would help me to form a opinion on the worn pieces. But, like I said there are more knowledgeable folks on here besides myself. I'm just weekend warrior/shade tree mechanic.
                    My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
                    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Spacer

                      [ATTACH]29[ATTACH]29038[/ATTACH]038[/ATTACH]
                      I think I got it thanks

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                      • #12
                        Like I said, I'm no professional but that does look bad
                        Just in case you decide to replace that piece. Which part exactly is that ?
                        Last edited by katanarider; 01-25-2015, 07:27 PM.
                        My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
                        http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'd measure the springs too - they can compress over time. Might be worn out. Mine that I'm rebuilding drags also, but I just picked up a mityvac - hoping that takes care of it. But I've done everything you have and put on stainless steel braided lines.

                          If you do some searches on here it seems to be an unfortunately common problem, so if you figure out something that makes a nice difference please post back and let us know.
                          1998 Katana 750
                          1992 Katana 1100
                          2006 Ninja 250

                          2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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                          • #14
                            I wonder if the rod is just worn so, now it's just a little short. Bleeding the clutch shouldn't be that difficult. a pain, yes but, it should still bleed.
                            "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
                            spammer police
                            USAF veteran
                            If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I don't really see how it would wear down length wise any, but maybe some if them were just a teeny bit short from the factory? That has occurred to me. If after I hit mine with the mityvac if it still drags I'm going make several new rods that are slightly longer and see if that makes a difference. (Like 1, 2 and maybe 3mm longer). Easier for me that tearing into the clutch itself. Not terribly optimistic, but worth a shot - shouldn't take more than a half an hour with calipers, a drill, and a dremel.
                              1998 Katana 750
                              1992 Katana 1100
                              2006 Ninja 250

                              2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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