[92xjunker]

Time does strange thing, 20 years of use on some, may wear some rods.

[katanarider]

Have you ever noticed how its hard to push/roll your bike with the engine off while in gear, but the higher gear you go the easier it is to push ? Does that same effect occur in this instance ? In other words, while the engine is running, clutch pulled in and in 1st gear your experiencing pull/movement. But in a higher gear will it pull less, yet not bog down then engine enough to have to re-crank it ? I always wondered what caused that.
On the other hand, it seems like the clutch return spring inside where the bleed valve is located could be weak or too short. I would try to stretch that spring inside the housing by the gear shifter. I hope that made sense.

[92xjunker]

I believe he rebuilt the slave and master cylinders.

[subforry]

What level of "not completely disengaging" are we talking about? I ask because they are many threads here about Kat 1100 and dragging clutches.

Does it go thunk when changing from neutral to first at idling (800-1100 rpm) with the rear wheel on the ground? Is the thunk less when warm? This all might be normal.

Not normal would be same test and the RPM drops or it chatters and clashes. Then you have something that needs to be fixed.

Also when it comes to bleeding hydraulics I feel that system needs to be used and then let rest for all the very small air bubbles to settle and collect into a bigger air bubble. If possible, take it for a short ride and let sit overnight before trying to bleed the system again.

[Locomotion]

My spacers were very badly scored so got a friend to make me some stainless steel ones, made no difference to sticking. I think these bikes are inherant to sticking clutches, a damned good thrashing will loosen things up with a quality oil

[shpielers]

My spacers were very badly scored so got a friend to make me some stainless steel ones, made no difference to sticking. I think these bikes are inherant to sticking clutches, a damned good thrashing will loosen things up with a quality oil

Really?? Haven't heard that before. Hope it holds true for mine. What oil did you use to notice the difference after said thrashing?

[Locomotion]

I meant to say if bike has been standing expect the plates to stick, much much better after a run, I always use a good quality mineral oil none of the fancy (and expensive) synthetic stuff

[Allan Kiefer]

Clutch

I replaced the spacers and checked the springs all good.before putting the clutch cover back on I viseblly checked the clutch and it dose completely disengage so I have absolutely no clue why it dose this at all maybe the oil what weight and brand would all of you recommend?i have been running 15/40 rotella I was told that would work well.i have found that the clutch drags less after it is warmed up.

[katanarider]

I replaced the spacers and checked the springs all good.before putting the clutch cover back on I viseblly checked the clutch and it dose completely disengage so I have absolutely no clue why it dose this at all maybe the oil what weight and brand would all of you recommend?i have been running 15/40 rotella I was told that would work well.i have found that the clutch drags less after it is warmed up.

I noticed idle speed/RPM drop on cold start with Rotella 15w-40 in my Kat600. The valve lash chatter got worse too believe it or not. I'll be going back to 10w-30 next oil change.
Use 10w-30, or for test purposes you can try Rotella T6 5w-40.
After reading some reviews of people using the T6 5w-40 I gave it a go in my 600cc. I don't recall having any issues but the idle speed/RPM increased. The 5w-40 is thin during the summer heat, so to be safe I switched back to 10w-30.

[92xjunker]

5/40 will be thin 5w when cold, thicker when warm 40w.

[katanarider]

5/40 will be thin 5w when cold, thicker when warm 40w.

I've read that online from other people.
I'm no scientist, chemist or know it all by any means.
But what I've have learned from my own experience tells me different. I'm not going to argue the fact any more than these simple words because I'm going to just disappear from the topic all together. I hope my comments arent' taken too harshly, but I disagree.

[katanarider]

I have presure at the lever it oust won't completely diisengage.and I have not yet checked the clutch pack and basket yet but it appears that would be the next step.the bike had sat for four years prior to me buying it.

What would I be looking for during inspection?

Any updates on this thread ?
I found this bit of info on the web. If the smaller port in the master cylinder cup gets clogged the clutch will not release. Its the return port.
See video !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YSldW85ioI