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Blue cloud for company. Oil consumption.

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  • Blue cloud for company. Oil consumption.

    So, after swapping my engine for a lower-mileage one after the trans ate itself, I'm no longer hassled by the oil leak issues of the last engine or its broken trans, but now I have the fun, all-new issue of oil consumption. It's specifically cylinder #4 (the one on the opposite side of the petcock, the one that has the vac line to the fuel tank) – as that's the plug that's getting fouled.

    The oil consumption is most apparent under deceleration, and AFTER the bike has warmed up, and usually higher up in the rev band.

    Is this more characteristic of valve seals or worn-out rings? Based on the volume of consumption I'm tempted to say one of the valve seals is leaking like crazy into cylinder 4, but I wondered if anyone else here might have more sage insight.

    Can I do anything to slow down the consumption of oil or am I screwed either way?

    How long do I have before complete catastrophic failure? Oil's currently still clearish and not milkshake.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by black&blue; 05-29-2012, 04:02 PM.
    Black & Blue - Kludge Fixed Katana - 1990 Katana GSX-600F [out of service - engine swap started 9/8/12; ETA 9/30/12]
    Beaten and bruised, clawing its way back from the dead for the 3rd time. 2-up tourer
    2001 Buell Blast 515cc, V&H Exh, Buell Pro-Series Intake, Stage IV Jetting, Raptor II Streetfighter Front Headlight/Fairing Assembly, Dual HIDs -- "The Misfit"

  • #2
    Sounds like rings to me. Valve seals are typically smoke on a cold start, as the oil runs down the valve stem once you shut it off.

    The oil won't go milkshake on a Kat....not water cooled so if anything it will just turn black faster from blow-by.

    Comment


    • #3
      It could be either... easiest less painful way to find out is to visially inspect the intake valves with the carbs off and the exhaust valves with the header off to see if you got oil caking on them. If the valves are clean, then I would wonder about the rings.... If it is bad enough, sometimes you can see the oil steak from the stems...
      "Life is what happens when you make plans..."

      http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=119546

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Nut-Nut View Post
        It could be either... easiest less painful way to find out is to visially inspect the intake valves with the carbs off and the exhaust valves with the header off to see if you got oil caking on them. If the valves are clean, then I would wonder about the rings.... If it is bad enough, sometimes you can see the oil steak from the stems...
        that's relatively easy, getting the carbs off isn't impossible nor is removing the header.

        Given how it's localized to one particular cylinder, does that make it any more likely that it's valve seals or rings (one or the other)?

        TY for the reply :]
        Black & Blue - Kludge Fixed Katana - 1990 Katana GSX-600F [out of service - engine swap started 9/8/12; ETA 9/30/12]
        Beaten and bruised, clawing its way back from the dead for the 3rd time. 2-up tourer
        2001 Buell Blast 515cc, V&H Exh, Buell Pro-Series Intake, Stage IV Jetting, Raptor II Streetfighter Front Headlight/Fairing Assembly, Dual HIDs -- "The Misfit"

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by black&blue View Post
          Given how it's localized to one particular cylinder, does that make it any more likely that it's valve seals or rings (one or the other)?
          I wouldnt THINK so...I remember when the valve seals went bad in my Lincoln from sitting so long during my driving vacation, and they were all in pretty much the same shape.

          A ring could go bad on a single cylinder pretty easily, overly lean fuel mix could eventually cause it but I would imagine that's pretty rare.

          Only one way to find out though...if the engine needs work, why not crack both motors apart and just swap the trans parts?
          90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

          Originally posted by Badfaerie
          I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
          Originally posted by soulless kaos
          but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

          Comment


          • #6
            a compression test ???
            Blood , its in you to give! http://www.blood.ca/

            Comment


            • #7
              well it's a moot point now, it inexplicably stopped moving forward right as I went to ride home from work.

              It's staying in the p-lot at work. damnit.
              Black & Blue - Kludge Fixed Katana - 1990 Katana GSX-600F [out of service - engine swap started 9/8/12; ETA 9/30/12]
              Beaten and bruised, clawing its way back from the dead for the 3rd time. 2-up tourer
              2001 Buell Blast 515cc, V&H Exh, Buell Pro-Series Intake, Stage IV Jetting, Raptor II Streetfighter Front Headlight/Fairing Assembly, Dual HIDs -- "The Misfit"

              Comment


              • #8
                My advise is still the same I gave you prior to your swap....part out your current bike and get another pre. There are several pres on craigslist for under $1100

                For example:



                1990 Kat 1100 for $900
                http://www.wickedelements.com



                ^^^^^^

                Comment


                • #9
                  I would get it home and do a compression check if it is still at least cranking. A big difference between the other 3 cylinders and #4 would most likely indicate a bad piston or rings. That 1100 Wickeded posted for $900 might be a pretty sweet deal if it runs good. Even if you didn't like the bike as much as you like your current Kat, you could just swap the engine and hit the road bigger and badder than before. Old Kats rarely die, they usually just get faster. lol
                  John,
                  '05 GSXR750, '86 FZX700 Fazer, wifes bike '02 R6
                  sigpic

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    wish i lived out there id buy the 1100 just for the motor
                    never argue with an idiot, they'll drag you down to there level and beat you with experience.

                    Originally posted by GSXFJim
                    Just remember.. Stupid hurts...
                    confused katana build

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      **** under 1100 must be nice cheapest around me is normally around 2000
                      ----USMC combat vet----
                      07 Yamaha r6s & 93 Kat streetfighter project

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by bagndrag View Post
                        **** under 1100 must be nice cheapest around me is normally around 2000
                        Actually, when I first suggested this on his other thread there were a few under $800 but as we all know as the weather temps increase so do bike prices.
                        http://www.wickedelements.com



                        ^^^^^^

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          yeah; i've just been forbidden from getting another bike until I sell one of my two cars and NOONE wants to buy my gorram great looking modded out G1 Explorer...

                          The bike just threw the damn chain.

                          How do you propose I part the thing out? I'm not sure it's worth all that much as individual pieces. At this point it [had] brand new tires <400mi, brand new chain and sprocket [<300 mi] and finally had the transmission working right. :/
                          Black & Blue - Kludge Fixed Katana - 1990 Katana GSX-600F [out of service - engine swap started 9/8/12; ETA 9/30/12]
                          Beaten and bruised, clawing its way back from the dead for the 3rd time. 2-up tourer
                          2001 Buell Blast 515cc, V&H Exh, Buell Pro-Series Intake, Stage IV Jetting, Raptor II Streetfighter Front Headlight/Fairing Assembly, Dual HIDs -- "The Misfit"

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Take the motor out pull the head check the rings and valve seals
                            replace or repair as needed or take good motor and good trans
                            and put them together you can than ride again.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by djdaredevil View Post
                              Take the motor out pull the head check the rings and valve seals
                              replace or repair as needed or take good motor and good trans
                              and put them together you can than ride again.
                              you make it sound so easy ;P

                              Given the difficulty my bro had sourcing carb gaskets for his kat, how hard is it going to be to find the right engine rebuild set to re-ring the kat?
                              Black & Blue - Kludge Fixed Katana - 1990 Katana GSX-600F [out of service - engine swap started 9/8/12; ETA 9/30/12]
                              Beaten and bruised, clawing its way back from the dead for the 3rd time. 2-up tourer
                              2001 Buell Blast 515cc, V&H Exh, Buell Pro-Series Intake, Stage IV Jetting, Raptor II Streetfighter Front Headlight/Fairing Assembly, Dual HIDs -- "The Misfit"

                              Comment

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