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Fork springs

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  • Fork springs

    Had to tell everyone about my experiences with this the other night. Rt fork seal has been blown for quite some time and finaly ran out of excuses to pull it apart. Had the parts and progressive springs for over a year. School and work had me really busy and for the moment I found the time I needed. I did cheat a little. I put bike on center stand, block of wood under header under fairing and used a car jack under to lift front end off the ground. dropped brakes, speedo cable holder then front wheel out of bike. Pulled tree cover off bars then carefully loosened all fork tube bolts on the tree's and wiggled and slid the whole assembly out from underneath. I was able to keep the farings on and thus saved lots of time. since I never messed with the tree's reinstalling was a breeze as well.
    I pulled the drain caps. drained and loosened upthe caps. This was the one area I did make a mistake, my 92 kat 1100 has screw caps on the top, not the style shown in the manual. Before the top caps clear the bottom tree, put a wrench and loosed but dont remove the caps.. then fully pull assembly out. The rest was simple, remove and replace. Per Progressive's instructions, no space was needed for my install, I used a bent pick tool to hold up damper assembly as I screwed the springs down into the tubes that I had already filled corectly with 15 wieght fork oil. Manhandle tubes up and screw cap down. Then clean everything and reinstall.
    I was not prepared for the difference on my first ride. Slolid and well damped, not harsh at all. I wiegh 265 and am a fairly agressive rider so this setup was perfect for me. You may find different wieght oils work better or worse for you. No more wallowing in turns, no more having to recorect my lines in turns, all because of week springs and lack of damping.
    Just wanted to share. I kept the fender and brace in place the whole time to save time and labor. Just be sure to have a peice of carpet to work on so nothing gets scratched.
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