I'm about to pull the trigger...

[mailman1175]

... on a new 750 Kat -- Lord willing and the creek don't rise, that is.

I've been on a long, long hunt to replace The Big Blue Blob (my '04 Kawasaki Vulcan 800 Classic) with a SPORT-touring rig, and I think I've found it in the Katana 750. I know what I like about it, and I've seen very little not to like about it. It's heavy, and it's an old design, sure. But that just means it's a classic along the lines of the YZF-600R. And it's weight is actually a plus in my book -- it should smooth out the ride better on some of the rough backroads I ride. Old school? GREAT! I can work on it myself!

The Katana's underrated -- and doomed to obsolescence, probably -- but still a great, great ride. Basically the only thing I don't like about it right now is the style of the headlights... But hell, Suzuki's in the business of building distinctive bikes -- the 'busa and the V-Stroms sure generate a wide range of opinions about their front ends.

My question for you folks is: What are the downsides to this bike? Is there anything -- anything -- I need to know about it before I bring it home? Any inherent flaws? Any mods you have to do as soon as you get it home (like the KLR650 and it's 'doohickey')?

I'm not just talking about personal preference stuff here, either. I'm talking about "I can't believe Suzuki still hasn't fixed this" stuff -- safety issues, reliability issues, etc.

As proven as this design is, I think I'd have heard something if there were major problems with it... but you never know. Of course, teh interwebs have a way of bringing out all the horror stories... but this is a forum for fanatic KatRiders, so I figure I'll get some pretty objective responses.

Thanks in advance.

[jcoria]

i just bought one this year and so far it has been a pleasure to own and ride....I almost have 1000 miles on it...the only thing you may discover is that you want it to be more...more on the performance side..and there are a couple of things that you can change... IVANS Jet Kit, and a new exhaust...

the only other (other than the headlight appearence..i am not partial to it either) is that there are NOT many aftermarket items for it...

It is a unique bike and it is very smooth and fun to ride...

Just remember it will not be a SUPERSPORT bike...
jC

[WildKat]

The Kats are really pretty bullet proof if you take care of them. Regular oil and filter changes, good set of tires, carbs periodically get dirty and need to be cleaned.

Is it brand new, or new to you? If it is preowned, then you'll wanna check it over thorougly, ask alot of questions, get maint. records, find out who else owned it, etc. The more info you can get on how it was taken care of the better. If it is pre owned here is a good checklist to go by, done by one of our own, cyber poet.

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_buyingused.html

If its new, keep up the required maint. as best you can to keep your warranty intact, change the oil/filter often, and first things first atleast I think, get a good set of tires..the stock macadams are OK, but not that great and you'll notice a world of handling difference in a good set of aftermarket Michelin Pilot Powers, Metzler Sport Techs, etc.

[Kat-A-Tonic]

It's the tires stupid!

Just kidding about the stupid part. The stock tires are not very good. They wear like iron but they do not feel planted. Upgrade them at the earliest opportunity.

[KatDan]

a 750 may not have the Macadams, don't they come with Dunlops? if you're looking for a real S/T setup, you might consider a factory gel seat, Corbin, or Sargent. my 600 was very cold-natured, but a re-jet cured that.

[ZukiFred]

I aggree with KatDan that a stock Kat is vary cold-natured, An ignition advancer helps and rejeting helps even more.

[Mojoe]

I see the topic title....."I am about to pull the trigger....", and then notice it was posted by someone called "mailman". So I come in here expecting to find someone going "postal".

but it just turns out to be a common question. I truly feel deceived and I demand a refund.

[The CyberPoet]

Things they don't tell you and should:

1. As others mentioned, the stock tires suck. I recommend the Metzeler Z6's as replacements, and have swapped tires as early as feasible on my Kats (selling the OEM tires on eBay, and thus recouping virtually all the cost on the new tires). If you want an eBay write-up for your OEM tires, PM me or search -- I've posted a listing that is complete before.

2. The bike is a great touring & commuting bike. It doesn't like summer traffic jams though (no water, no fans, so 15 - 20 minutes and she is running way too hot normally without any warning system in place), and is particular about oil (it can't take API SJ, SL or SM rated motor oils -- you really need to stick to API SF/SG/SH, and preferably JASO-MA rated as well).

3. If you are planning on doing a lot of touring, there are certain upgrades that can't be beat -- the Corbin saddle, the Givi hard-bags, a Fumoto oil drain valve and an all-weather/open-cockpit oil temp gauge are my four most serious touring upgrades, all well worth the money IMHO.

4. The 600 mile service is often a sticker-shock to new buyers. Expect to pay $290 - $320 for the service visit, unless you wrench yourself.

5. They rarely go bad in the first few years, so buying used is often wiser than buying new -- save the depreciation for someone else and get the same basic thing. There haven't been any significant changes since the '03 model year (very few since the '98 model year -- the rear tail change in '03 is the biggest one). If buying used, watch for a failed 2nd gear or failing second gear (result of abusive shifting, esp down-shifting); it's the only real danger on buying used that regularly crops up.

6. Suzuki offers a 4-year extended factory warrantee (should clock in around $380 unless your dealer is heavy into padding the numbers). This warrantee adds 3 years onto the OEM warrantee, and includes certain upgrades (such as $20/day rental reimbursement if your bike is down or in the shop). You can add it after-the-fact at any time before your standard 1 year warrantee is up by contact Suzuki USA directly.
Whether you get it or not is your call -- I got it on the one new Kat I bought and never needed it, but it is transferable to the next owner, which means it can make a serious difference in resale price and how fast you can move the bike when you want to sell. Whatever you do, do not invest in any after-market (3rd party) warrantees -- they're generally not worth anything, IMHO, usually with too many limits and exclusions; the factory warrantee will be honored by any Suzuki dealer on the planet and has no mileage cap.

EDIT/ADDED:
7. Remember that this bike is built to a price. As a result, the suspension will not have the number or type of settings you may find on a high-end sports bike, and some parts (rear shock comes to mind) tend to age less than gracefully. Yes, when they do wear out, there are upgrades available, and I won't suggest that you upgrade these parts until the OEM ones are in poor condition or you are riding beyond the bike's inherent limitations. And you will not get injection, which can be both a blessing and a curse (a blessing in that carb work is parts-cheap, but labor intensive, while injector-related work is usually the reverse).

Enjoy!

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Black Kat]

Please dont shoot katanas, they dont like it. Despite having a bullet proof engine, their outer plastic skin does not hold up very well....

[ronin]

hands down, the katana will give you the best bang for your buck. i paid just under 6,700 for my 06 kat 750 (brand new out the door price).

any other sport bike (brand new) will cost you an additional $2,000 (minimum).

the insurance is significantly lower for a katana (make sure the insurance agent is aware that the kat is a gsx-f not a gsx-r - it's about a $1,000/year difference down here in s fla)

the high cost of an initial maintenance (first 600 miles) is due to the valve adjustments as required by suzuki. most of my buddies (sport and cruisers) also complained of the high cost of the first maintenance visit. so, if you buy a new bike, expect to dish out the money for your first maintenance.

IMHO, if your going to buy a new kat and end up spending over $1,000 on it to "juice it up", you might as well buy a supersport bike like a hayabusa from the get go.

[cjgsx]

How much for the Vulcan?
As for the 750 Kat, I would put 600 style handle bar mounts on it, I perfer the lower mounts that the 600 uses. Like cyber said, the Macadams need to go. I run Pirelli Diablos on my 600. Ign advancer , don't have mine on yet.

[mailman1175]

Thanks for all the good responses so far, guys.

cjgsx: I'm tits-up in the Vulcan, so we're trading it off (downsizing) for a KLX125 for my wife to learn how to ride on...

Oil temp gauge... that'll be on my list, for sure. I won't spend much time in traffic (I hope), but this will be my first air/oil-cooled bike. I'd rather be extra cautious with it.

I'd been planning to do my own wrenching, but I've seen a few posts that make valve adjustments sound nightmarish. Are they that bad?! [I mean, it's not like it's a VTEC Honda, right?] And what's the factory recommendation for valve checks/adjustments after the initial 600 miles?

The 750 does have the Dunlops, not the Macadams, AFAIK, but I'll certainly look into replacing them pretty quickly. IMO, tires and suspension is the best place to put money if you're wanting to upgrade performance.

My Vulcan was more cold-natured, not less, after a re-jet... so I'd planned on waiting a year before re-jetting or putting an aftermarket pipe on the bike. I want to see how the bike does for quite a while before I start throwing money at it. The only reason I can see right now for a re-jet would be to smooth out any vibes or flat spots in fuel delivery. From what I understand, though, the 750's carbureted pretty well from the factory.

I'll probably add some electrics to it, though. At the very least, I'd like to power up a tank bag so I can have tunes on the road. Eventually I might try to run some heated gear, maybe a GPS, maybe a cell phone charger. Anyone know the stock stator output? If it's inadequate, I might try having it rewound, too... though a guy can always increase headroom by converting to LEDs/HIDs...

Anyway, obviously I have plans for the bike. I just want to see how it does for a while before I get too crazy with it. Mostly I'm worried about mechanical stuff for right now.

Thanks a bunch. I'll keep y'all posted on what my bike status is, hopefully this time tomorrow night.

[The CyberPoet]

Oil temp gauge... that'll be on my list, for sure. I won't spend much time in traffic (I hope), but this will be my first air/oil-cooled bike. I'd rather be extra cautious with it.

Seek me out when you're ready for it. I sell the whole kit. I also sell matching all-weather/open-cockpit voltage gauges too.

I'd been planning to do my own wrenching, but I've seen a few posts that make valve adjustments sound nightmarish. Are they that bad?! [I mean, it's not like it's a VTEC Honda, right?] And what's the factory recommendation for valve checks/adjustments after the initial 600 miles?

Oil change every 3500 (or less), valve adjustment every 7000 according to the owner's manual (but every 3750/7500 according to the shop manuals). Nothing special about the valve adjustment if you've ever done them before... it can be intimidating for someone who has never done them, but getting to the valves is generally more time consuming than anything under the valve covers

The 750 does have the Dunlops, not the Macadams, AFAIK, but I'll certainly look into replacing them pretty quickly. IMO, tires and suspension is the best place to put money if you're wanting to upgrade performance.

I would still buy new ones and ask the dealer to mount them before you take delivery... that way, you can resell the Dunlops as perfectly new.

I want to see how the bike does for quite a while before I start throwing money at it. The only reason I can see right now for a re-jet would be to smooth out any vibes or flat spots in fuel delivery. From what I understand, though, the 750's carbureted pretty well from the factory.

The carbs are generally a bit lean from the factory, but not painfully so by any means. No inherent fueling or air problems with stock bikes; people who go for rejetting do so for performance, not to correct some inherent flaw in the design.

I'll probably add some electrics to it, though. At the very least, I'd like to power up a tank bag so I can have tunes on the road. Eventually I might try to run some heated gear, maybe a GPS, maybe a cell phone charger. Anyone know the stock stator output? If it's inadequate, I might try having it rewound, too... though a guy can always increase headroom by converting to LEDs/HIDs...

Electrical output is *ideally* supposed to be about 550 watts with 320 watts draw (total) on highbeams for all systems. IMHO, split the difference in half and you have 100 watts to play with. If you need more, yes, you should either budget electrically or rewind the alternator or both. Good news is the system is set up to provide more than stock draw even at idle.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet