If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
That isn't wear, it's rat damage......that plug wire has been chewed on......
"I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
spammer police
USAF veteran
If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group
installed the replacement plug wire last night. fixed all the wires/cables that showed signs of "wear" or rubbing. carbs went on with no real issues, so few more parts and hope to fire it up this weekend
so last night i started assembling the gear selector that i had previously taken off in my endeavor to discover why the clutch wasn't working. when i put it back on the shaft i lined up my previously made marks and it didn't seem like it was in the same position as i remembered. got everything hooked up and it appeared that it was in gear as it wouldn't roll. so i pulled the clutch lever in and rolled it up on my table so i wasn't having to bend over so much.
once there, i pushed down on the lever a couple of times assuming to get it into 1st and then my plan was to lift up for neutral. it never felt like it went into 1st to me, so i lifted up and it clunked into gear, assuming it was in 2nd. pushed down again trying to go into 1st and it wouldn't move. lifted up and it clunked again, assuming another gear change. so now i am not sure where i am at, but pushing down goes nowhere, it only moves when lifting up. about this time i find that the splined end of the gear selector was broke. not sure i did it or it was done previously, but assuming i did it. so i have no way to go in either direction until that is replace for fear of tearing up the splines.
so it seems to me that the selector is out of position somehow so i took the clutch cover and clutch assembly off to better look at that side of things hoping that i don't have to pull the motor in order to see what was going on inside there. it seems that everything is in the proper orientation per the manual
i am not sure if somehow through all of this i rotated something into a position and now i don't know where i am at with regards to gear selection. when i turn the key on the Neutral light is on but i know it isn't in Neutral.
So I got the gas tank assembled again and begin putting it back on the motor. The problem is the petcock and that I received from the part store only has two ports on it while the one that I took off of there that is broken has three ports.
So the new one that has the single port, whether I'm on reserve or main the gas comes out the same port I'm assuming. The smaller port would be for the return line?
If the is right should t I be able to tee the main/reserve lines?
Wrong petcock, 90-97 have 2 fuel ports and a vac port on the back.
"I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
spammer police
USAF veteran
If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group
New petcock in the mail today, pulled the tank and installed it and put the tank back on. always feels good to put parts back on.
got my gear selector replacement part and put it together and on the shaft. only way I could feel comfortable pushing against the shaft was to place a block of steel between the case and the shaft on the clutch pack side of the motor. this gave me something solid to push again while installing. now that this is back together I was able to go through the gears and get back to neutral again which helped assure me that I didn't screw something up too bad
previously as I was pulling off the clutch cover I was labeling bolts as I removed them and as it turns out as some of you know, some bolts are longer than others. sometime previous to me , someone put a long bolt in one of holes that should have been a short bolt and I think they bottomed it out against the clutch pack and stripped the threads out. so I am waiting for a helicoil kit for the 6mm to fix this issue. once done, I can put some oil back in and fire it up. (hopefully)
fixed the stripped out bolts and installed the cover, filled it up with oil and started moderate cranking to get oil and fuel to start circulating. after a few minutes it started to catch. then waited a while crank some more, waiting, crank some more and finally it ran for a few seconds. next time it started right up and was idling with the choke. let it warm up and eventually no choke and it was idling a little low, slight adjustment and nice and smooth.
bike sat for about 10 years according to the original owner because of the clutch issues, so really happy to see it start/run/idle after all of this time.
next up is put the seat on and take it down the street to run through the gears and see how they work.
Last edited by mcgyverit; 08-29-2016, 06:21 AM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
been a while since my last post, but apparently my cleaning wasn't as good as I had hoped. next time I went to start it for a little ride, it wouldn't start. so off come the carbs again.
so over the last couple of weeks tore them down again and removed the emulsion tubes and other parts and cleaned them up really good
put it back together Sunday and got it to run. not running what I would consider to be good, but running. idle seems to be really sensitive, after it warmed up, I just touch it and it drops off quickly, so I am thinking another cleaning is going to be needed. right now idle is about 1800
my goal though is just to verify the tranny is working as it should by taking it up and down the street.
so after a little more than a week with the carbs sitting in cleaner solution after disassembly I put them back together today. put them on the bike and started it up. it got going pretty quick, but then the rpm's climbed quickly to 5k-6k rpms and wouldn't come down. so I shut off the fuel and just let it run out so the rpms would come back down.
after some research I found a boot that was off the carb, put it back on and tried it again. it jumped to the same 5k-6k rpm. pulled the tank off while it was running, and when I removed the vacuum line that runs to #4 from the petcock, the rpms dropped down to 3k-4k.
while looking over the carb assembly I noticed that one of the air inlet "T" was broken, not sure how much that has an effect on everything.
did my research and was unable to find anything similar to the situation that I was having with the high RPM's - 4k and steadily climbing. so last night I decided I must have bench sync'd the carbs poorly and decided to get it started and start adjusting while it was running and see what happens. hooked up my aux. tank and got to it.
typically difficult to get the screwdriver on the adjustment screw, so I popped it out of the retaining clip and it sprung out, no real way to explain it other than that. I got the bike started and behold, it was idling at 2k rpm's now. so my guess is that the idle adjustment was bound up causing the rpm's to climb.
so with that realization and now a bike that was idling, popped off the vacuum ports and hooked up my sync gauges. some minor tweaking and they are pretty close to each other. little more tweaking on the rpm's to get it back down around 1500 but it is pretty steady. found to be really sensitive on the adjustment screw.
so hey, now it starts and idles, what more can I ask for. put the tank back on and the seat and hope tomorrow take it for a short loop around the block and see how the clutch and tranny work. fingers crossed.
Comment