What is the signal generator cover attached to?

[Chris007911]

Wrecked two days ago because I wasn't careful enough with cold tires. Now I'm doing a damage assessment.

What exactly is the signal generator cover bolted to?

My knees are still recovering so I can't go take her apart.

[Black_peter]

The engine case??

[The CyberPoet]

The main block.

Good luck with that!

Actually, a skilled aluminum welder can build up the block aluminum if it's not totally F'd, so the bolts can be threaded in again. But it's rare for a wreck on a Kat to damage stuff on the engine-side of the signal cover.

Q: what did you hit, and are you ok?

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Chris007911]

Pulling out of my parking lot at my apartment, mid-turn both tires slip out. Wasn't going fast at all, but too fast for cold pavement and tires. I stand up after hitting my left knee and bike slides into a curb cracking the signal generator cover and engine block.

At first I thought it was just the signal cover, but after looking closer today I saw further fractures. Now you're saying it's the engine block.

Man, very disappointed. Don't think she'll be up and running anytime soon, if ever.

Only thing that happened to me was some road rash on the left knee. Everything else is okay because of proper gear - jacket, gloves, and boots. I have armored over-pants, but didn't have 'em on because it was a 5min trip.

[The CyberPoet]

Was it cold enough that there might have been black ice in your neighborhood (esp. if the sprinklers ran during the night)?

Just curious -- having both tires slide out in a low-speed turn usually is something related to the road surface.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Chris007911]

Going back to the spot, there wasn't anything on the road, wasn't cold enough that day for black ice. I've taken the beginner MSF course, been riding for 2 years. Dealt with bad road conditions before, but this time it was user error. If it was a warm day or slightly warm tires, then I would've made the turn like any other turn. It was about 43 F.

Any suggestions what I do from here? Piece out the bike? Take it to a shop and pay $1000+ to fix that crankcase? How involved is it to replace the crankcase section of the motor? I imagine removing the engine from the bike then disassembling it from the top down?

I appreciate your time Cyberpoet and others.

[The CyberPoet]

The basic choices in dollar-wisdom is to remove the cover, examine the extent of the damages underneath and get a quote on welding it in place (no removing the engine), if it's feasible to weld (or even necessary).

Then compare that cost to a typical $600 - $1k price for a complete replacement engine & tranny in good shape (such as the 600cc Kat engine Spedee just took out of his bike to slip in the 750) and swapping engines. Swapping engines is the least amount of hassle in the bigger picture if your existing engine would need to be torn down.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Chris007911]

After searching for 2 hours... any suggestions on a aluminum welder I could go to around Athens, GA?

Is it assumed that all welding shops can do motorcycle blocks?

Like, A A A Welding & Fabricating Service?

[The CyberPoet]

I have zero clue as to what's available in Athens. Just ask around for a tig welder who feels comfortable welding a motorcycle block.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[Chris007911]

After talking to a welding buddy, it's not going to be possible to weld it back together, too much damage to the block. So welding is no longer an option.

So I've been on an engine hunt. Talked w/ Spedee and I'm definitely interested in his engine, just a bit higher mileage than I would want to put in there.

So take a look @ this engine on ebay..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-Suzuki-Katana-600-Engine-Motor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQihZ011QQitemZ320085460764QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V#ebayphotohosting

- Does it have what I need?

- What additional assembly is required, in comparison to simply dropping a complete engine in?

[Sundowner]

well since i just disassembled one of these beasts today, I took a look at the pics for that engine and i noted a few things:

1) whats the rust colored junk near the base of the Cylinder wall?

2) is it me or is the same piece (the signal Generator cover) is scratched as well?

I would seriously ask the seller how long this block has been sitting and request close up pics of the areas i mentioned

[Spedee]

I never thought 27,000 miles was high.

[Spedee]

Anyone tell me how they ship engines? Do you have to build a wood box for UPS? How do they pick it up? No carbs either.

After talking to a welding buddy, it's not going to be possible to weld it back together, too much damage to the block. So welding is no longer an option.

So I've been on an engine hunt. Talked w/ Spedee and I'm definitely interested in his engine, just a bit higher mileage than I would want to put in there.

So take a look @ this engine on ebay..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2002-Suzuki-Katana-600-Engine-Motor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35595QQihZ011QQitemZ320085460764QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V#ebayphotohosting

- Does it have what I need?

- What additional assembly is required, in comparison to simply dropping a complete engine in?

[Chris007911]

I pm'ed the ebay seller asking those questions.

Spedee, I meant no offense @ all. I just have little personal exposure to higher mileage bikes. I thought I was getting high in mileage w/ 10k miles. For all I know, my bike mileage conception is all wrong.

I pm'ed you about some stuff I found out about shipping.


- Can I attach my existing carbs w/ no problem?

[The CyberPoet]

Spedee, the cheapest way to transport anything large (like an engine or a full bike) any serious distance is to palletize it (or crate it) and send it via truck from terminal-to-terminal.

Because pallets are cheaper (used) than wood to build a crate, I normally use pallets. Get the smallest pallet it will fit on (probably 3'x3'), strap it down, and optionally wrap it with shipping film (think large-size ceran-wrap).

Buyer pays for the pallet & any strapping, etc.

Then contact Joel Bachman at 800-323-5441 Ext 1303, or via email at [email protected] and tell him you need cheapest** terminal-to-terminal from your zip to the destination zip. He'll quote you the cheapest he can find, and set up the waybill for you (against a credit card). You drop the pallet off at the local trucking terminal, and the buyer picks it up at their local trucking terminal.

NOTES:
(1) Pick-up and delivery at residential usually adds about $150 to each end of the trip. Thus, terminal-to-terminal is the cheapest (period). Pick-up/delivery at commercial establishments with a loading ramp or cargo dock still adds about $45-$70 to each end of the trip.
(2) Get Joel on the phone directly. He will end up finding you a better price than simply using freightquote.com's automated front end.
(3) Expect to pay around $1 a mile max, about 50 cents-a-mile minimum. If it's crated, it'll be a little cheaper because they can stack other cargo on top of it.
(4) If you want to crate it instead of palletize it, start with a pallet and build the walls & top around that.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet