Katana of the Month - February 2008  Dane-Kat
 

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Mechanics 101 Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
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Old 02-17-2018, 01:54 PM   #11
shpielers
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Plastic welding would be your best bet if you are going to try to fix it - any type of glue/epoxy is going to have some sort of reaction with the multitude of chemicals that are in modern fuel


Also, surprised no one else chimed in on this aspect - it sounds like your carbs aren't set up properly. Usually dying when applying throttle indicates you're running lean, same with covering the air box and it running at all/better.
A single float being off/broken won't make the bike not run. It'll make it run poorly, but should still run if all else is correct.

You mentioned spraying the Jets - I know you've posted many times about cleaning the carbs, but I can't recall specifics anymore - did you only spray them, or did you dip them?
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Old 02-18-2018, 10:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shpielers View Post
Plastic welding would be your best bet if you are going to try to fix it - any type of glue/epoxy is going to have some sort of reaction with the multitude of chemicals that are in modern fuel


Also, surprised no one else chimed in on this aspect - it sounds like your carbs aren't set up properly. Usually dying when applying throttle indicates you're running lean, same with covering the air box and it running at all/better.
A single float being off/broken won't make the bike not run. It'll make it run poorly, but should still run if all else is correct.

You mentioned spraying the Jets - I know you've posted many times about cleaning the carbs, but I can't recall specifics anymore - did you only spray them, or did you dip them?
Hey shpielers,


Thanks for the input; yes I think I'm going to give a shot at plastic welding the broken joints with a soldering iron. Been researching it a bit, and it seems like the best possible option - if it doesn't work I'd have to buy a new float anyway. Not sure what type of plastic they are, but I'd guess some type of thermoplastic.

I think the poor running was from the pilots being blocked. I could not see or blow through them when I took them out. I did completely strip the carbs and dip them each individually for 24-48 hours apiece back in November, I think; I would not think much had changed in that time from sitting with fuel-stabilized gas/being empty... Do you think there's anything else I should check while I have them apart?

Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 02-18-2018 at 10:46 PM..
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Old 02-19-2018, 12:40 PM   #13
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Push some fishing line through the pilot circuit to make sure it's not blocked anywhere. Takes a bit of patience to get them started, but lots easier to tell this way than hooking the carbs back up to the bike and finding out you still can't idle without choke
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Old 02-19-2018, 05:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Push some fishing line through the pilot circuit to make sure it's not blocked anywhere. Takes a bit of patience to get them started, but lots easier to tell this way than hooking the carbs back up to the bike and finding out you still can't idle without choke
That's a good idea, thanks. I would start from the pilot air holes (??) in the front?
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Old 02-20-2018, 01:04 PM   #15
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Correct. Getting them in past the first bend takes a bit of doing
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Old 02-20-2018, 10:19 PM   #16
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Correct. Getting them in past the first bend takes a bit of doing
Ok, forgive my ignorance. There are two air jets at the front of the carb. The fiche diagram on parts websites seems to only show one going into that place, and doesn't show which position it is in.

It's very easy to stick the line through here, and comes out in the circular area before the A/F screw; I believe this is the main air jet?





The other one (tiny jet) is more challenging, and not sure where it is supposed to come out. Looking at the below diagram of a CV carb, I wondered if the line should come out the main jet pylon thing at the bottom?



Or, it comes out at the top, beneath the plastic caps. Can you verify this? I try to avoid futzing with the caps and diaphragms as much as possible lest I damage them.

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Old 02-20-2018, 11:33 PM   #17
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Pilot jets will end at the carb throat. One of those tiny holes.
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Old 02-21-2018, 07:09 PM   #18
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Pilot jets will end at the carb throat. One of those tiny holes.
Sorry if I am being daft:

There are three tiny holes here, and the larger air jet leads to them:








The only other tiny hole I see there is for the A/F screw:



There is a large hole for the choke (circuit):



I don't see a hole for the other, smaller airjet to lead to?

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Old 02-25-2018, 09:39 AM   #19
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If looking straight on with the carbs up right....

Right side is the pilot air jet. It's for the pilot system, or Idle. It will combine with the transition ports (3 holes) and is the main air flow for the pilot jet.

Left side is the main air jet. The port for it is into the emulsion tube area to mix air with the main jet. If you have the main jet and emulsion tube pulled out, you should be able to look into that area and see the line sticking into it.

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Old 02-25-2018, 11:15 PM   #20
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If looking straight on with the carbs up right....

Right side is the pilot air jet. It's for the pilot system, or Idle. It will combine with the transition ports (3 holes) and is the main air flow for the pilot jet.

Left side is the main air jet. The port for it is into the emulsion tube area to mix air with the main jet. If you have the main jet and emulsion tube pulled out, you should be able to look into that area and see the line sticking into it.

Krey
Hey Krey, hope you've been well. Thanks for the response.

If that is the case, the pilot air jet diameter is smaller than the main jet diameter. Interesting. The larger diameter air jet is pictured above, and leads to the three tiny transition ports.

The main air jet diameter is tiny, barely fitting the fishing line. My emulsion tubes are not pulled out, as I want to futz as little as possible with the top caps and diaphragms. The fishing line does go in, quite far though, so I believe those should be fine.

I did plastic weld the float.... waiting to post details until I see if it works properly. I have received no response from arsenic; as such I measured the new good O-rings I had left and ordered big bags from Grainger. Once those arrive, then I can see if the bike will live, and sync.
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