I want to install a rear sprocket but I'm not sure on which one to get I don't want to scew up my highway cruising too badly. Right now at 100kph it turns about 4800rpm's how much more of an increase would there be????
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Sprockets and such
I am looking into changing rear and front sprockets and chain.
I dont mean to hijack the thread, but 12k is enough on the original set.
What is the combo for down one in front, up two in the rear and the chain to go with it...
or I could just call Thom and ask...
I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure riding an FZ1 and a Triumph 955i has turned me into a bit of a hooligan.
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-1 front=plus3 in back . -1 can keep same length chain , dunno about adding to the back . But I THINK I read that every one up in the back add one link to the chain .... My -1 upped the cruising rpm's by only a couple hundred .
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Originally posted by md86-1 front=plus3 in back . -1 can keep same length chain , dunno about adding to the back . But I THINK I read that every one up in the back add one link to the chain .... My -1 upped the cruising rpm's by only a couple hundred .Gripp & Regripp
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CyberPoet's "98+ Katana Sprocket Ratio Charts and sprocket notes", at MotorcycleAnchor.com, now offering permanent, reusable earplug collections for $6 shipped!
AND
CyberPoet's "How to understand motorcycle sprocket math and drive ratios," at MotorcycleAnchor.com
As for the magic red dust, your sprockets and toast are due for replacement. From my:
CyberPoet's "Understanding Motorcycle Chain wear and maintenance" at MotorcycleAnchor.com, this failure analysis:
FAILURE ANALYSIS:
The picture (above) is an example of a chain that is failing at 7800 miles, although it has not reached it's elongation limit by a far shot. Specifically, the chain has the following problems:
The red color close to the seals on the exterior side-plates is the sealed bearing lubricant normally used to lubricate the rollers. The seals are leaking, so the lubricant leaks out and dries into a red powder (red coloring is common to most chain brands, but not all);
If you look closely at the seals themselves, you'll notice what appears to be lengthwise grooves in them; this is caused by using too hard a bristle during cleaning, one in which the material of the bristles was harder than the materials in the seals;
The inner side-plates are not aligned evenly, meaning that the lowest link in this picture is already compromised beyond the point of failure;
The rider said he diligently cleaned & lubed his chain every 400 to 600 miles. Based on what I see, he should have cleaned less and lubed more.
WHAT TO DO:
Replace this chain immediately! Failed seals cause chains to bind and break, putting the rider at risk.
Lubricate far more often that you do -- remember, you can lube far more often than you need to clean!
Change your cleaning method to a different method and/or use a softer brush.
In this case, consider using an oil instead of a chain wax, because the cleaning abrasion indicates that the rider probably went over-board compensating for sticky-build-up. Oil flings, carrying away excess sand and dirt, while waxes trap them there...
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by katana bobis there a number stamped on the chain/sprockets to Identify wich ones I have? or do I just count links/teeth?
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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