Ignition Key Sticking

[rottenpixies]

When I go to turn the key in my ignition from Off to On it takes a bunch of wiggling before it will go to on. If I lock it, it does the same thing and it's becoming a pain in the ass.

Anyone know if there is something I can do to fix this? Hoping I don't have to replace the ignition.

[Stumpy]

Put key in ignition, turn bars to Lock position, turn ignition through lock and then to parking light.

Spray WD40 down both sides of key gently. Not much!

Turn key to Lock position. Spray both sides again. Turn key to On position, spray again.

Take key out, shake bike a bit, turn the bars a few times. Put key back in, turn bars back to Lock - and hopefully you'll notice a vast improvement

This won't work forever though. Eventually the WD40 will disappear. Try a small blob of neversieze or copper slip on the key.

[dgxser]

I have not done it on one of these switches, but I have taken apart the key switch on bikes before. Pretty simple really. Do take pictures as your pulling the parts out so you know how they go back in.

Eventually you will get to the lock cylinder. If you look on the inside end, you will see a brass tang sticking up that holds the cylinder in place. Put the key in the lock, Make sure to take note of which direction (1 oclock, 3 o clock, 10 o clock) the tang is at, then push that tang into the cylinder. Now the cylinder will slide out. Once it is out, carefully remove each lock tab and spring, clean them good, and put them back in the correct slots. As you may know, those tabs and their position is what makes your key work that lock. If you ever want your lock to work with any or no key, just pull those tabs out. When your done cleaning, put the key back in the lock, and push that tang down to put the cylinder back in. Should work like brand new. If it does not, then either your key or the tabs might be worn down or slightly bent. I know the original key to my bike is almost cracked in half from the previous owner trying to open the gas cap on this bike.

[steves]

Don't use WD40. Get something like the PB Blaster Dry Lube, or a product designed to lubricate locks.

[Kreylyn]

Liquids only cause a very temporary improvement (like wd40) and will actually increase the issue in a short period of time as they collect further dust/grit/grime. They also increase wear from the grit inside becomes a nice paste that sticks and wears down parts from friction (like wet sanding the parts inside...) Ever notice keys that look extremely worn...

It's very rarely the tumbler that is causing the issue on these bikes. ALOT of the liquid has to be used because it needs to fill the tumbler, flow out around it, drip down under it, to get in where the latch assembly below it. There generally isn't a good direct route for that, so it takes time, and "working it" a lot to get it down there.

In extreme situations it's the worn key issue from liquid lube and lots of dirt over the years. It's more often then not the latch assembly under the tumbler.

The simple way to truly fix it, is to remove the tumbler, and clean then polish the latch and base it slides in. The reason it's a problem is the parts corrode/oxidize. That oxidization creates a dust that stays in the latch assembly. If you clean this out, and then polish the metal parts well, they will work awesome with no lube at all. Use a polish that has a good protective residue like mother's polish and you will keep the oxidization from coming back for a long time. Add to that the use of a dry lock lube that won't attract outside dust... and you will be amazed at how well it works.

If it's the worn key issue... then with the tumbler out, have a new key cut for it. It's really simple to do yourself, or have a locksmith cut one for you if you want.

Any real resolution is going to require you remove the ignition from the bike anyways... sorry.

Krey

[rottenpixies]

Thanks for the info. At least it's a rainy week so it will be good time to take it off and give it a good cleaning.