put too much clear coat

[lynwoodca1]

i applied way to much clear coat giving it like a fading look now what can i do? do i have to start the paint job all over again? if not what can i do to fix this problem?

[Kreylyn]

i applied way to much clear coat giving it like a fading look now what can i do? do i have to start the paint job all over again? if not what can i do to fix this problem?

I'd wait a few days, it should clear up as it cures... if not, it's not too much.. it's bad clear.

Krey

[LAsunbird86]

^

[uno]

I'd wait a few days, it should clear up as it cures... if not, it's not too much.. it's bad clear.

Krey

If it still looks crappy after a few days, I'd try to wet sand it a bit, depending on what it is. If you do that, though, you will need to put more clear after the fact.

[BigFish]

One of 5 things happened imo:

1) The clear collected some dust/dirt etc while drying or the surface didn't cure smooth for whatever reason. If the cloudiness looks the same without depth this might be the case for you....and this is the easiest fix. Hope for this one. If that's it then simply surface sanding and buffing will take care of it.

2) The clear was not mixed thoroughly, and/or got oil/water/some contaminant in it. In this case you'd have to wet sand the clear away, at least until the level at which the imperfection exists.

3) Clear was sprayed over an incompatible paint and "ate" the base/mid coat. You will be able to see this by looking at a single point in the paint at different angles. If the point looks the same regardless the angle then the flaw is at the level of the base/mid coat. To fix this you will have to at least wet sand the clear coat away, and respray the base/mid coat. It will be safer to sand away the base/mid coat too, but a great deal more work, and you'll also make your plastics thinner by doing this.

4) The clear was sprayed over a dirty surface. Basically the same as 3, but the results will vary a lot more from one spot to another. The fix is the same as 3, sand it all away and respray everything

5) [edit] As Kreylyn says, it could be bad clear that isn't truly transparent.

[parkze]

Maybe try to take a few coats off by wet sanding.

[teddy]

What kind of clear did you use? If you used rattle can clear, may as well start sanding it off. Many rattle can clears are very cheap and will appear 'milky' when applied to heavily. Wetsanding and buffing will not help any with this problem, you'll just get shinier haze.

[lynwoodca1]

yes i got the rattle can one! why which other clear coats are available? i dont have a spray gun

[LAsunbird86]

yes i got the rattle can one! why which other clear coats are available? i dont have a spray gun

you can get them fairly cheap, definitely worth the money.

[justinboyce]

I did my tank all with rattle cans, and it turn out really nice.
I would wet sand it with at least 1200 grit sandpaper to the the last few coats that are bad off.

[teddy]

yes i got the rattle can one! why which other clear coats are available? i dont have a spray gun

The highest quality clears will mostly be available in a sprayable form only. there are a few that are actually a two part system with the catalyst in the rattle can, but I have never used any of them. If you get the part repainted (color) you should be able to take it to a body shop to get a quality clear sprayed on for a reasonable price. Then again, spray guns can be bought relatively cheap... a little practice goes a long way.

[BigFish]

yes i got the rattle can one! why which other clear coats are available? i dont have a spray gun

Rattle can clears are not all created equal. I would expect SEM clear for example to be near show room quality, while Krylon is a touch cloudy by comparison. If you use the rattle can clear be aware that most will break down in the presence of oil, gas and in some cases rain. The exception is the composite rattle can clear, which costs about $20 for a can. You push a little shaft on the bottom which releases a hardener in the rattle can, then it's shaken vigorously and sprayed within about 30 minutes - 2 hrs depending upon temperature and the product.

If you want it to look good and last consider spraying a composite clear, or having someone else do it once you have the color part laid down smooth. Doing this with a spray gun might produce slightly better results than the composite can, and will definitely outlast the single stage rattle can clears. I still use the single stage though for anything that needs little chemical resistance and limited chip resistance. So it's an option for anything not towards the front of the bike, or near the gas tank or chain.

[lynwoodca1]

anybody think sanding it down with 400 or 800 grit and re painting will do the job? i tried painting over the clear coat but it made it look nastier!

[Dexter]

Your best bet is probably to break out the orbital sander and strip it all down and start over fresh. Thick coats of cheap clear coat tend to shatter like glass when hit by a stone on the highway. Just a thought.

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Before you remove and redo, give it a few days to dry. It may eventually clear up.