tools needed for a chain/sprocket change?

[donalson]

i'm still debating on weather i should spend the $270 to have my local shop do the chain/sprocket or if i should do it myself

the problem is i know i need some special tools (chain braker/press, stand and what else)

anyone have a basic price list of what it'll cost me in the specific parts tools? i'm sure i've got the others i need and would prefer to have the tools to do it in the futher over paying somone to do it... but i don't wanta spend a ton either :-/

so what tools exactly will i need and what will it cost aprox?

thanks again
mark

[BarMatt80]

well you can cut the old chain off, so won't need a breaker. just a riveter, but the shop that did mine said the riveter he had was junk, and he used some hammer or something i don't know, all i know is that it is on and it isn't going anywhere. othere than a riveter, just standard sockets, wrenches and allen tools. and torque wrench.

i hope for $270 that includes the chain(xring) and sprockets(hardened steel back and chromoly front) well that is the rk/vortex chain combo. and install.

[trinc]

$270 is a lot of money.

you NEED a rivot tool like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Motion-Pro-chain-breaker-riveting-tool-CBR-GSXR-R1-R6_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35580QQihZ010QQitemZ200013441725QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

then a dremel tool is VERY handy to grind of the pin to remove the old chain.

a good torque wrench & a 1 1/4 socket. basically what you'll pay in labor you could buy the tools and do it yourself. if you haven't read my how-to look here.

http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/katana/trinc/sprocket/sprocket.htm

tim

[donalson]

ya 270 is complete including the chain/sprocket kit and install... abot 100 for intall after all is said and done i belive he said after quoting me for the chain/sprocket kit

THANK YOU on the how to post... exactly what i was looking for... right now my biggest worry is that i don't have a stand... wonder if i can figure out how to suport everything w/ a jack stand... wish i'd kept my engine hoist at my place instead of sending it to my me-mas doh

[BlackKatnWV]

I placed a jackstand under my left rearset right on the metal bracket it bolts to and supported my bike when I was removing the engine like that. You could always use one jack on each side. Just go slow and make sure its going to lift it like you want....or you can try placing a 2x4 oe 3x5 on the jack head and lifting it from a flat point near the center of course that rrequires removing you belly fairing

[iwannadie]

for the hundred bucks labor will cost you buy a rear stand. youll get use out of it later if you plan on doing more work yourself.

for me thats always been the case, when i can buy tools instead of paying labor i jump on it.

[donalson]

ya that was my thoughts just want to make sure it's not going to be insane... the press is already $80 or so just wanted to make sure i wouldn't need anything else to expensive haha

[md86]

Get some rebar and stick it through the swingarm pivot hole , then use jackstands or cinder blocks to hold it .
I dremel through the sideplate instead of the pin . Just works easier for me .
You CAN peen over the master link pin with a hammer , but a riveter is SO much easier , and less chance you'll need to run and get another link because you FUBAR'ed the first one .
Other than that .... a torque wrench is good (I use mine like a breaker bar) , you'll need an 1 1/4" socket for the front sprocket , and those rear sprocket nuts may be on there REAL tight , too .

[donalson]

got the tourqe wrench and pretty sure i've got the fatty socket will have to double check.

riviter i was planning on getting thanks on the rebar thing... sounds like an easy way to go. and much more stable

as for things on real tight... thats why i have a 3 foot pipe that slips over my 1/2" drive... had a few experiances w/ it on a 30mm axle nut where my 300 lb body had to JUMP on it to brake the thing loose doh..

thanks again guys

[skasner]

just use a master link... no need to screw arount with riveting stuff.

some people will try to tell you they are not safe but i say . as long as you install the clip in the correct direction it is just as good as the rivet style link, and if you are still paranoid loop some safety wire around it.

if it's good enough for racers to use, its good enough for a katana. i use one on mine and i ride it like i stole it.

[Black_peter]

OK I get in on the party..

To remove the old chain.
I bought a dremil type grinding wheel
(about 1/2 dia) and used it in my drill
worked great.

To remove the tranny sprocket.
I put the bike in nuetral and used the rear
wheel to turn the sprocket into the wrench.
The wrench was braced against the floor.
Worked great.

I think we went through this before but the socket is
32mm way freaking close to 1 1/4
Just an FYI.. If MD86 says 1 1/4 fits I belive him.

Master links IMO are like politics and religion..
I try not to argue for/against...

I also think 170 for teh parts is a bit steep.
Unless you are getting real top of the line stuff..
I though a good set was more like 120 or so..

[md86]

I've lost 2 chains that had clip-type master links . If you don't get the clip on PERFECTLY ( I had a shop do mine ..... TWICE ) , they WILL pop off . I don't mess around with them clip-types anymore .
Yeah BP , the socket I use is 1 1/4" . Fits PERFECT . I like the brace trick , though . I always just stick a broom handle or something through the swingarm to hold the wheel , but that doesn't work so great with a pre98's stock exhaust .

[donalson]

another option that i've used on cars w/ great sucess (axle nuts for cv joints and over tightened lugs)... might work if you remove the chain 1st...

slip the braker bar over the nut and put it in gear (figure for what direction to go to loosen it... not tighten) which prob means it won't work on the kat as there is no reverse lol and then roll away slowly to brake the nut loose

mark