[katanarider]

Thought he said it was a bandit one, good eye.

Even so, I've read on the internet that the Bandit covers are prone to failure too. I'd rather build my hand muscles than have a failure away from home, or have to constantly work on the thing. Some times less is more. I've been waiting on your build thread too. Forget the little Kats for now and get busy on the big one. I need some inspiration.
EDIT: Maybe a longer clutch handle (or just a different type) would make it easier to pull, because it would give more leverage.

[Tekgnome]

Hopefully you won't have the bad experiences with the hydro clutch like most other people
I've been wondering how your carbs are set up, because another member has 750 carbs on his 1127cc and he claims it idles really high. Maybe you can help him sort his out and enlighten the rest of us in the process.
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=137111

I finally finished the break in, it's going back to Pro stock performance and dyno today for its first oil change and dyno tune.

I can ask Ken what his final jetting is but I'm running a dyno jet kit with dual oval k and New pods.

1,500rpm no stalling absolutely perfect, we tried 1,000rpm but it occasionally stalls if you slammed the throttle closed.

I know we swapped the pilot jets for the idle but I'm not sure of the size.

Even so, I've read on the internet that the Bandit covers are prone to failure too. I'd rather build my hand muscles than have a failure away from home, or have to constantly work on the thing. Some times less is more. I've been waiting on your build thread too. Forget the little Kats for now and get busy on the big one. I need some inspiration.
EDIT: Maybe a longer clutch handle (or just a different type) would make it easier to pull, because it would give more leverage.

I actually bought a MPS quick shift so I won't even need the clutch except for launching

[katanarider]

If its not too much to ask, find out if he had to customize the spacing or any other thing to make them fit. Details like what intake boots were used and stuff are helpful to us that aren't in the know.
Oh, and your the man ! Nice engine dude
EDIT: Tekgnome, if your going to use that hydro clutch, my adivice is to use DOT 5 (silicone) fluid. When I've flushed my system, I've noticed the DOT 3-4 fluid builds some sort of oxidization that turns the fluid brown. That may be the cause of the problems people seem to have. I believe its not relieveing pressure on the return/clogging something in the fluid circuit.

[Tekgnome]

If its not too much to ask, find out if he had to customize the spacing or any other thing to make them fit. Details like what intake boots were used and stuff are helpful to us that aren't in the know.
Oh, and your the man ! Nice engine dude
EDIT: Tekgnome, if your going to use that hydro clutch, my adivice is to use DOT 5 (silicone) fluid. When I've flushed my system, I've noticed the DOT 3-4 fluid builds some sort of oxidization that turns the fluid brown. That may be the cause of the problems people seem to have. I believe its not relieveing pressure on the return/clogging something in the fluid circuit.

Physical fitment wise we used the old boots from the 36ss bts carbs that were on the gsx750f head.

I'm pretty sure that the 1997 version of the B12 engine actually used the same exact bts 36ss carbs as the gsx750f.

The only thing that I believe we modified was the main jets, pilot jet and k&n dual oval pods .

I'll double check with him, it's been a while.

This will only apply to a dyno jet kit but I can get the exact specs. You definitely shouldn't have any idling issues with gsx750f carbs on a b12

[Tekgnome]

Well today isn't a happy day. I'm pretty bummed...

109rwhp, yup.

That's it, the stock exhaust has to go. It feels like so much more than 109hp with the massive amount of low end torque the engine generates off the line but I should be pumping out so much more.

He did a second pull with the exhaust baffle removed and made 120rwhp untuned the potential for 130rwhp with no baffle and proper jetting.

I'm going ahead and dumping the stock B12 exhaust for a full system from the headers back.

109rwhp is absolutely absurd from a 1216 kit with a gsxr intake cam, K&N pods, 3ohm coils and a dynatek ignition system.

The apparent bottleneck is the exhaust and carbs, the cv 36mm might get swapped for some cv*38's or some Flatslide.


Full Delkevic Exhaust $496

40mm Mikuni Flatslide $730

[shpielers]

Holeshot has a good exhaust system for built AF B12 engines too. More expensive, but might be worth exploring.

+1 to DOT 5. It doesn't absorb water, which is what causes the haziness and need to frequently flush brake fluid.


Did you get torque numbers?? I'd love to know what those were.

[katanarider]

Check out the thread from "Locomotion".
"Another rebuild from Blighty"
Those english made headers are awesome ! I like the dual pipes better myself.

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=133928

EDIT: Oops, just noticed his pictures aren't working for some reason.

Ah, finally found the info on them. Anyway, here you go.

https://www.bits4motorbikes.co.uk/Ex...l?MotorID=1265

[Tekgnome]

Im looking at the $500 or less range.

This leaves

Full Black Widow Exhaust $413

Full Delkevic Exhaust $496


There were no torque figures, there was an issue with the rpm feed.