This is my first mite posting anything on this site.i bought a 89 kat 1100 it is my first bike and I am trying to do as much as I can by myself to save money.i am very mechanically inclined.i am having a problem with the clutch,no matter how much I bleed it,it will not completely disengage. I have replaced the hose,rebuilt the master and replaced the slave cylinder.would anyone have an idea as to what mite be the answer to my problem?
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Buy a hand pump.
Create suction/vacuum in the hose then shut the nipple. Its sort of difficult to keep the Mityvac on the nipple and shut it closed at the same time but you'll get it. Once the hose has negative pressure/vacuum inside it, try to pump the clutch lever and you should start feeling pressure build up. Once you begin to make pressure, be sure to close the nipple 3/4 the way through the purge/bleed to keep the vacuum inside the hose. You don't want the nipple to suck air back towards the master
cylinder.
Depending on the Mityvac, they can work better with out the little catch can some times. I just hooked mine directly to the purge valve/nipple with out the inline catch can. It will squirt brake fluid out the back of the pump so be prepared to make a mess and keep the fluid out your eyes.
Let me know if it works.Last edited by katanarider; 01-24-2015, 04:45 PM.My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894
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Grooves in the basket, plates and fibers not stuck together. The manual has all the specs. Which is downloadable from the wiki above."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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Clutch
Ok opened the clutch up.clutch appears to be ok,but there apears to be some wear from the pressure disc springs on the spacers and a little wear on the hub sleeve from the springs as well where the pressure disc bolts to it. Could the wear on the spacers be preventing the pressure disc from completely disengaging ? And or may there be something else?
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I'm sure others know more about this area than myself but a picture would help me to understand.My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894
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To post a pic click the blue "Post Reply" button on the lower left. Inside the reply window there is a paper clip icon to the right of the white smiley face. From there you just upload your pictures.
I've only taken my clutch plate off one time and that was years ago. I'm just saying it would help me to form a opinion on the worn pieces. But, like I said there are more knowledgeable folks on here besides myself. I'm just weekend warrior/shade tree mechanic.My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894
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Like I said, I'm no professional but that does look bad
Just in case you decide to replace that piece. Which part exactly is that ?
Last edited by katanarider; 01-25-2015, 07:27 PM.My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894
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I'd measure the springs too - they can compress over time. Might be worn out. Mine that I'm rebuilding drags also, but I just picked up a mityvac - hoping that takes care of it. But I've done everything you have and put on stainless steel braided lines.
If you do some searches on here it seems to be an unfortunately common problem, so if you figure out something that makes a nice difference please post back and let us know.1998 Katana 750
1992 Katana 1100
2006 Ninja 250
2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles
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I wonder if the rod is just worn so, now it's just a little short. Bleeding the clutch shouldn't be that difficult. a pain, yes but, it should still bleed."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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I don't really see how it would wear down length wise any, but maybe some if them were just a teeny bit short from the factory? That has occurred to me. If after I hit mine with the mityvac if it still drags I'm going make several new rods that are slightly longer and see if that makes a difference. (Like 1, 2 and maybe 3mm longer). Easier for me that tearing into the clutch itself. Not terribly optimistic, but worth a shot - shouldn't take more than a half an hour with calipers, a drill, and a dremel.1998 Katana 750
1992 Katana 1100
2006 Ninja 250
2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles
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