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Carb problem. Yes i read Carb 101 twice.

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  • Carb problem. Yes i read Carb 101 twice.

    So history of the problem, the bike ran great as long as the idle was turned upto about 3k and would run perfectly fine from 3k to 11k. if you would try and turn the idle down it would die. SO i posted a topic and was told to dip the carbs and clean them. Well today after reading the carb 101 twice, (then once more after this whole problem to make sure i didnt miss anything) i went outside and followed the steps, had the carbs out and on the bench in about 5 minutes. diaphrams and orings up top looked great, and the slides slid easily with the caps still on. cleaned every passage i could find and made sure all jets were clean inside and that you could see light through them. NOW the only thing i noticed. is the little black plugs, under the float assembly, which was snug by the way, but the black plugs under neath the float assembly didnt seem to give much trouble coming out. i dont know if it was just me or if they were loose. but they didnt have a snug feel when i put them back in. i made sure the air screw was reinstalled the same amount of turns as before and then then put the whole thing together. put everything back on the bike, turned the valve to prime for a few seconds and started the bike. started and actually idled for the first time around 1500rpm. i was thrilled. the throttle responded great and i was about to drive it around the block for a test ride. Then it sputtered a little bit and died. so i made sure the fuel was on and the tank was full of gas. wouldnt start. so i turned the idle up gradually and still wouldnt start. turned it back, wouldnt start with choke. would only start if i cracked the throttle to about 1/4 but then it would only stay around 1500rpm. so i took the tank off, looked everything over and everything appeared fine, i had 4 new plugs laying around so i figured what the hell lets put them in, plug one was wet, the second was dry. could this now be a spark issue? since plug number one was wet it wasnt firing. so i installed a new plug and still the same thing. wouldnt rev. I havent taken 3 or 4 out yet because i ran out of daylight. but i will do this tomorrow. But so far what could it be. it was running fine up until this. Sorry for the long post, and Thank you to anyone who reads it and helps.
    Last edited by jon_570; 06-26-2012, 05:16 PM.

  • #2
    Originally posted by jon_570 View Post
    So history of the problem, the bike ran great as long as the idle was turned upto about 3k and would run perfectly fine from 3k to 11k. if you would try and turn the idle down it would die. SO i posted a topic and was told to dip the carbs and clean them. Well today after reading the carb 101 twice, (then once more after this whole problem to make sure i didnt miss anything) i went outside and followed the steps, had the carbs out and on the bench in about 5 minutes. diaphrams and orings up top looked great, and the slides slid easily with the caps still on. cleaned every passage i could find and made sure all jets were clean inside and that you could see light through them. NOW the only thing i noticed. is the little black plugs, under the float assembly, which was snug by the way, but the black plugs under neath the float assembly didnt seem to give much trouble coming out. i dont know if it was just me or if they were loose. but they didnt have a snug feel when i put them back in. .

    Those would be the needle valve. That (along with the float and seat) control fuel flow into the carbs. Stuck open the bowl will over fill, stuck closed and no gas will get into the bowls. They should move no problem, i'm guessing you have an issue there.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Jman2343 View Post
      Those would be the needle valve. That (along with the float and seat) control fuel flow into the carbs. Stuck open the bowl will over fill, stuck closed and no gas will get into the bowls. They should move no problem, i'm guessing you have an issue there.
      not the float needles them selves, the black plugs that cover the pilot jet opening were the ones that didnt seem real tight.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by jon_570 View Post
        not the float needles them selves, the black plugs that cover the pilot jet opening were the ones that didnt seem real tight.
        You need new ones. Bikebandit.com, ronayers.com, or maybe your dealer.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by jon_570 View Post
          not the float needles them selves, the black plugs that cover the pilot jet opening were the ones that didnt seem real tight.
          If you remove the float rail, and turn the carb upside down... give a mild shake.... and the plug stays, your fine. If it falls out, it needs replaced.

          Krey
          93 750 Kat



          Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

          "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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          • #6
            ok, well im taking them back out today. ill see what happenes with them. THanks

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            • #7
              ok. so i took the carbs off 3 times total today. and heres what i found out. The first time i took them off the springs for the slide that are above the diaphram were kinked not allowing them to slide easy. got that taken care of. no other problems found. the pilot jet caps did not fall off while shaking the carb, everything else still appeared clean. put it all back together and it starts, revs fine, idles great at around 1200-1300 rpm. does not change between revs which makes me thing its not a vacuum issue. idle is steady. and as soon at i get on the bike, put it into gear, and start letting the clutch out, it starts to bog and then dies. then takes about 5-8 seconds of cranking then goes right back to idling perfect, and as soon as i try to take off it bogs and dies, no matter how much throttle i give it.. im stumped and dont know what else it could be.

              is it slightly possible that when i removed the carbs the first time, if its never been done, that the intake boots maybe have a crack in them?
              Last edited by jon_570; 06-25-2012, 07:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

              Comment


              • #8
                ck for leaks carefully with carb cleaner or W/D 40. note: fire hazard.
                never sleep with anyone crazier than yourself sigpic2011,2012,2013,2014,2015,2016

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                • #9
                  sprayed around and didnt hear the idle change. took the black caps off and found 3 of the 4 o rings missing for the vacuum port on top. went to lowes and got the correct size. installed them and bike will now idle at1500 but nothing else. wont respond to throttle.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by jon_570 View Post
                    sprayed around and didnt hear the idle change. took the black caps off and found 3 of the 4 o rings missing for the vacuum port on top. went to lowes and got the correct size. installed them and bike will now idle at1500 but nothing else. wont respond to throttle.
                    Have you synced the carbs yet since the last time they were worked on?

                    Krey
                    93 750 Kat



                    Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                    "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      So, im completely ashamed of myself. I took the tank and seat off and the filter out of the box and the slides wouldnt move. i was thinking WTF...so i take the caps off and i must have put the spacers for the slides in the wrong position and it wouldnt allow them to move. Lesson learned. put them in correctly. bike fire up easier than it ever has before, set the idle to 1500, idles AMAZING. and runs ALOT better than it ever has. Thank you guys for all the help youve provided. In the end it was operator error.

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                      • #12
                        FYI, Idle should be 1200 RPM. Good job!!

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 05RedKat600 View Post
                          FYI, Idle should be 1200 RPM. Good job!!
                          Ok thank you. i will reset it once the bikes warmed up. Thanks for your help. Now im off to enjoy this beautiful weather.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            on second thought maybe it isnt fixed. bike idles amazing. doesnt fluxuate, and runs till about 3.5-4k fine once it hits this point or if i open the throttle too much it sputters but still accelerates, it just sounds like its running on 2 cylinders, it doing this while i give it throttle makes me thing its a needle clip position or the main jet. for what its worth the needle clip is on the lowest setting.

                            and the bike has a full vance and hines exhaust. stock air box and filter.
                            Last edited by jon_570; 06-26-2012, 01:21 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              so, i took the carb apart, recleaned everything and noticed one of the main jets was loose. tightened it back up, made no other adjustments. and the bike runs AMAZING throughout the rpm range. Love this bike. Thank you for all your help.

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