Pre 98 Rear Disc Brake Installation (Pic intensive!!)

[96gsxohio]

I've never had a message become a sticky before, but I hope this gets put up as one.

Here is a pic intensive walk-through of removing and installing a rear disc brake on 1996 Katana 600. So lets get started!

Tools needed
Rubber hammer
12mm wrench
Socket wrench with the following sockets:
- 12 mm
- 13 mm
- 14 mm
- 17 mm
- 22 mm
medium sized allen wrench


Alright, begin by taking off your exhaust pipe, like so

Next take out the bolt with the cotter pin that holds onto your caliper and the 2 bolts on the bottom of the caliper brace

Now take off your caliper and loosen the adjuster screws on both sides of the bike


Take off the bolt that holds the axle on

Use your rubber hammer to knock it out and if you need to, use a screw driver to get the remainder out if it gets caught in the tire


Push the tire forward to loosen the chain and slowly take it off while rotating the tire until it's completely off

Remember the position and order of the bearings and the way the caliper brace is facing for when you have to put it back together

With the tire off, remove the 4 allen wrench screws holding the disc on

Now take off the old one and place the new one on (Note: my new disc had groove marks where the screw is supposed to push on to and I faced those outboard from the rim)


Finally, put the tire back on the same way, but in reverse and go get a beer for a job well done!!

[Black_peter]

Good work.. Excellent photos!
You forgot the step where you clean all the grunge off the rear end..

[96gsxohio]

Good work.. Excellent photos!
You forgot the step where you clean all the grunge off the rear end..

Dang-it!! Gosh!!


Oh yeah, don't forget to lube the axle again before inserting in back in...that sounded soooo dirty!!

[squiggy]

For us 98+ we can replace the rotor without having to remove the wheel.

[md86]

As can we . That step is not necesarry . But if the old rotor is worn , you'll most likely have to pry the pads apart to make room , just like when doing a pad swap . Plus , I'd advise AGAINST using the allens/mallet like that . Too easy to slip off and strip something . Impact driver with allen sockets , or I like to use my torque wrench with allen sockets as a cheater .

[96gsxohio]

As can we . That step is not necesarry . But if the old rotor is worn , you'll most likely have to pry the pads apart to make room , just like when doing a pad swap . Plus , I'd advise AGAINST using the allens/mallet like that . Too easy to slip off and strip something . Impact driver with allen sockets , or I like to use my torque wrench with allen sockets as a cheater .

That would work if I had those tools, but for the poor man...this is all I have. Little baby hits to get the screw turning is ok as long as you trust your fingers to hold the allen wrench. Good info though!

[Black_peter]

That would work if I had those tools, but for the poor man...this is all I have. Little baby hits to get the screw turning is ok as long as you trust your fingers to hold the allen wrench. Good info though!

I have only had success with a hand-held-hammer-hit impact wrench twice.
Both times for removing large Phillips head screws. I use ohio's technique. However I use a dead blow most times. Dead blow hammers have led shot inside the head, They do not bounce. Why would you want to remove the disk without removing the wheel? Seems like more work that way.

[md86]

Oh wait , I meant pull the wheel without pulling the Caliper . You can skip the pulling the caliper part .
What about allen sockets ? I'd MUCH rather use those than regular allens . I don't trust those for anything other than low-torque items .

[Black_peter]

Oh wait , I meant pull the wheel without pulling the Caliper .

That's true, just grab the assembly as the axle comes out.

[squiggy]

As can we . That step is not necesarry . But if the old rotor is worn , you'll most likely have to pry the pads apart to make room , just like when doing a pad swap . Plus , I'd advise AGAINST using the allens/mallet like that . Too easy to slip off and strip something . Impact driver with allen sockets , or I like to use my torque wrench with allen sockets as a cheater .

Well, let me repraise my comment:

For us 98+ we can replace the rotor disk without having to remove the axle.

[Black_peter]

Well, let me repraise my comment:
For us 98+ we can replace the rotor disk without having to remove the axle.

Without part way pulling the axle? Only if you are David Copperfield..
But if you have it halfway out it only makes sense to pull it all the way and pull the wheel to have better access to the screws.

[96gsxohio]

As can we . That step is not necesarry . But if the old rotor is worn , you'll most likely have to pry the pads apart to make room , just like when doing a pad swap . Plus , I'd advise AGAINST using the allens/mallet like that . Too easy to slip off and strip something . Impact driver with allen sockets , or I like to use my torque wrench with allen sockets as a cheater .

Well, let me repraise my comment:

For us 98+ we can replace the rotor disk without having to remove the axle.

Yeah, I'm not sure I follow the whole not taking the tire off thing. I understand md's method about the caliper, but the only reason I took it off was because of the brace that is held on by the axle. I could have just undid those bolts and left the cotter pin bolt alone, but black peter is right...if you have gone that far, why not do it the whole way?

[Black_peter]

I could have just undid those bolts and left the cotter pin bolt alone, but black peter is right...if you have gone that far, why not do it the whole way?

Actually you just pull the axle and leave the whole caliper alone..

[squiggy]

Well, let me repraise my comment:
For us 98+ we can replace the rotor disk without having to remove the axle.

Without part way pulling the axle? Only if you are David Copperfield...

I love being a troll.

[Black_peter]

oh.. funny...