poor storage conditions, but i have no choice

[jippah]

First off, I am in the Navy. I'm up to transfer of the island of Oahu to the DC area in a couple months. The Navy will ship most of my stuff based on a total weight limit, including one POV (personally owned vehicle) and as many motorcycles that fit into my total weight limit.
I am shipping two bikes; my 2000 Kat and my 2006 Kawasaki 636.

now this is all fine and dandy, but there is a hitch... once i leave Oahu, i wont be going to the DC area for about 4 months meaning all my stuff, including my bikes, will be sitting in storage until i get there.

I'm pretty sure there wont be anyone to put the batteries on tenders, so i'll just have to D/C them from the terminals.
don't think they'll put the Kat on its center stand, nor the 636 on the spool lifts i have.
The shipping company is forcing me to run the bikes completely dry of fuel. and that doesnt surprise me, but it does concern me.. the 636's fuel pump is going to be hurting whilst running it dry, and both bikes will have no fuel in the tanks.

the shipping forms i have to sign say the following;
I declare the above motorcycle has been properly prepared for shipment. The fuel tank is empty, the engine was run until it stalls for lack of fuel, both battery cables are disconnected and taped, and no hazardous materials are stowed in the vehicle.

whats you're thoughts? I'm most concerned with the fact that both bikes have brand new tires (just put them on last week) and i dont want them to develop flat spots...

[Wild-Bill]

Charge the batteries after their disconnected. They should be fine. Run a heavy dose of SeaFoam in the last tank before shipping. When you're ready to drain out the tank, disconnect it from the carbs, (plug the petcock vacuum line) and run the bike until it dies. Then open the bowl drain screws to get the last of the fuel out. After draining the tank I'd go ahead and open it up and leave it in the sun for a day to evaporate the last of the gas. Pour some oil in the tank and swish it around to coat the entire inside of the tank before pouring that out. Then re-mount the tank for shipping but don't bother re-connecting the hoses. Just block them off to keep the critters out. When you get the bikes delivered you can use 1/2 gallon of fresh gas to rinse out the tanks (Use that in your car or a lawnmower.) and run a normal dose of SeaFoam in the first tank-full of gas.
Take lots of photos before the movers get there just in case they damage anything and be there while they're crating them. Don't worry too much about your tires although you do want to check them on delivery to make sure the tread hasn't been cut. If there's any damage at all on delivery take pictures with the packing crates in the background.

[Slofuze]

^ Methinks that's good advice!

[BIG-KO]

I had a buddy in the military couple years ago and he too was concerned about shipping his bike. His stuff went into one of those "PODS" style containers. Yes he too had to drain fuel. He was concerned about bike tipping over and damage. He scrounged up two old queen sized mattresses, removed the mirrors and sandwiched his bike between the two mattresses. Put ratchet straps around the whole thing and everything arrived overseas perfect. I would've never thought of that !

[jippah]

Charge the batteries after their disconnected. They should be fine. Run a heavy dose of SeaFoam in the last tank before shipping. When you're ready to drain out the tank, disconnect it from the carbs, (plug the petcock vacuum line) and run the bike until it dies. Then open the bowl drain screws to get the last of the fuel out. After draining the tank I'd go ahead and open it up and leave it in the sun for a day to evaporate the last of the gas. Pour some oil in the tank and swish it around to coat the entire inside of the tank before pouring that out. Then re-mount the tank for shipping but don't bother re-connecting the hoses. Just block them off to keep the critters out. When you get the bikes delivered you can use 1/2 gallon of fresh gas to rinse out the tanks (Use that in your car or a lawnmower.) and run a normal dose of SeaFoam in the first tank-full of gas.
Take lots of photos before the movers get there just in case they damage anything and be there while they're crating them. Don't worry too much about your tires although you do want to check them on delivery to make sure the tread hasn't been cut. If there's any damage at all on delivery take pictures with the packing crates in the background.

I appreciate the detailed "how-to!" i'll be sure to do all of these things to the Kat!
as for the FI 636 should i just run it dry with a good dose of seafoam, leave gas can open in the sun for a day, then close it up?

I had a buddy in the military couple years ago and he too was concerned about shipping his bike. His stuff went into one of those "PODS" style containers. Yes he too had to drain fuel. He was concerned about bike tipping over and damage. He scrounged up two old queen sized mattresses, removed the mirrors and sandwiched his bike between the two mattresses. Put ratchet straps around the whole thing and everything arrived overseas perfect. I would've never thought of that !

that may work for his move, but i know for my move they'll be crating my bikes up, so i wont be able to protect them with mattresses or anything of the like
however, i will be taking many, many pictures as suggested in case the worst should happen.

Thanks for all the help guys!!

[Wild-Bill]

I'd treat the 636 tank the same way. As an air-transportation guy, I can tell you that gasoline tanks are supposed to be "drained and purged" to avoid flammable fumes. As a bike owner I can tell you that you don't want rust forming in your gas tank--even with FI. Get all the gas out of there and then treat the inside of the tank with oil to avoid rusting.

[Kreylyn]

I'd treat the 636 tank the same way. As an air-transportation guy, I can tell you that gasoline tanks are supposed to be "drained and purged" to avoid flammable fumes. As a bike owner I can tell you that you don't want rust forming in your gas tank--even with FI. Get all the gas out of there and then treat the inside of the tank with oil to avoid rusting.

Just a note on the oil treatment.... you dont' really need to "flush" it out after... just fill the tank with gas. Oil will mix in such a light quantity that it won't have any negative effects.

I've cleaned, coated several tanks this way to prevent rust, then mounted them on the bike, filled the tank and rode on. No issues ever.

Krey

[loudnlow7484]

I would never run a FI bike out of gas intentionally. It's not good for the pump, and there is no reason to (there are no fuel bowls like a carburetor). Once you've drained the tank and the lines, all the fuel is gone. Actually, if you run it dry, there will still be fuel in the lines, just not enough to create the pressure it needs to run.

So no, don't run the 636 dry. Drain the tank, and drain the fuel lines, and then hook them back up.

[Wild-Bill]

Well there you go. One less step and you can re-connect the fuel hoses before shipment.

[jippah]

I would never run a FI bike out of gas intentionally. It's not good for the pump, and there is no reason to (there are no fuel bowls like a carburetor). Once you've drained the tank and the lines, all the fuel is gone. Actually, if you run it dry, there will still be fuel in the lines, just not enough to create the pressure it needs to run.

So no, don't run the 636 dry. Drain the tank, and drain the fuel lines, and then hook them back up.

right, i mentioned that earlier that i dont want to cause the pump any stress.

how much oil should i use to coat the tank after they've been drained and sat out in the sun for a few hours?

[cintidude04]

Isn't the tank on the 636 aluminum? if so just flush it with water I would guess, aluminum doesn't have the same problems as steel tanks.

[Kreylyn]

Isn't the tank on the 636 aluminum? if so just flush it with water I would guess, aluminum doesn't have the same problems as steel tanks.

Aluminum will oxidize badly with direct exposure to water. I would strongly suggest no water...

Krey

[numus]

Aluminum will oxidize badly with direct exposure to water. I would strongly suggest no water...

Krey

Aluminum oxide creates a preventative coat that will not allow oxidation under it.. Steel on the other hand will oxidize right thru the metal...
Just FYI.. wouldn't recommend washing it out with water either... You can use Ether to wash the tank out since it evaps fast.

[Wild-Bill]

You don't flush with water. You purge with diesel fuel or just let the inside of the tank dry out through evaporation and then swish enough motor oil around to wet the entire inside surface. About half a cup of oil should give you enough to get the job done pretty quickly. You're draining the excess back out, anyway so in the end you'll end up with a couple tablespoons in there, tops.

Note: If you actually purge with diesel then you shouldn't need to coat with oil. The diesel should provide enough coating for rust prevention.

[Kreylyn]

Aluminum oxide creates a preventative coat that will not allow oxidation under it.. Steel on the other hand will oxidize right thru the metal...
Just FYI.. wouldn't recommend washing it out with water either... You can use Ether to wash the tank out since it evaps fast.

This isn't fully correct... yes, it does create a preventative coat. It does NOT stop oxidation from occuring. Put a piece of aluminum in water, and come back 3 days later. You will have a nice fuzzy bar.

Never leave aluminum in direct contact with water.

Getting all the water out of a tank is near impossible with out using something else that would be better to flush with anyways,... this is why you don't want to flush with water. If any is left inside, that spot will continue to corrode... and can form a hole.

Krey