Alright everyone hopefully this is my last post for a while 😂. So I finally got my bike up running and driving. I set the pilot screws, cleaned the carbs, synched all the carbs. But my bike has a tendency to spontanionsly want to rev when it's not under load. If you just blip the throttle it will rev up and very very slowly come down, and I rode it around the yard and when I would pull the clutch in it would increase in recs all by itself, I checked and there's nothing blocking the linkage or that it's getting stuck on. Any ideas? Also another problem, my bike seems to drone out at about 5k rpm, it won't go higher then 6k rpm
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Originally posted by spencer2362 View PostAlright everyone hopefully this is my last post for a while 😂. So I finally got my bike up running and driving. I set the pilot screws, cleaned the carbs, synched all the carbs. But my bike has a tendency to spontanionsly want to rev when it's not under load. If you just blip the throttle it will rev up and very very slowly come down, and I rode it around the yard and when I would pull the clutch in it would increase in recs all by itself, I checked and there's nothing blocking the linkage or that it's getting stuck on. Any ideas? Also another problem, my bike seems to drone out at about 5k rpm, it won't go higher then 6k rpm
This could be a air or vacuum leak. I'd suggest you check for that. Air box for example should be sealed, no way for air to enter other than through an OEM style filter. High flow aftermarket filters, disconnected crank case vent, plug out of the drain hose or hose not connected all = problem.
Additionally you can use a spray bottle with rubbing alchohol in it to spray and wait a moment, at any point plastic or rubber meets metal. Check from engine back and all around carbs to find leaks. If you spray and wait for it to evaporate, and there is any change in rpm speed... and then you can repeat this effect by spraying again after it's evaporated, that will clearly point at a vacuum leak.
If you find it's all right and no leaks, then turn out the a/f screws 1/4 turn. Note differences. Repeat as necessary. Some setups, especially if your using a dynojet kit for example, may require more turns out from the standard 2.5 turns on a stock system.
If you turn out all the way to 4.5 turns out from seated, and there is no change.... your carbs are dirty, and need a full deep cleaning.
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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Originally posted by Kreylyn View PostHanging idle suggests it's running lean.
This could be a air or vacuum leak. I'd suggest you check for that. Air box for example should be sealed, no way for air to enter other than through an OEM style filter. High flow aftermarket filters, disconnected crank case vent, plug out of the drain hose or hose not connected all = problem.
Additionally you can use a spray bottle with rubbing alchohol in it to spray and wait a moment, at any point plastic or rubber meets metal. Check from engine back and all around carbs to find leaks. If you spray and wait for it to evaporate, and there is any change in rpm speed... and then you can repeat this effect by spraying again after it's evaporated, that will clearly point at a vacuum leak.
If you find it's all right and no leaks, then turn out the a/f screws 1/4 turn. Note differences. Repeat as necessary. Some setups, especially if your using a dynojet kit for example, may require more turns out from the standard 2.5 turns on a stock system.
If you turn out all the way to 4.5 turns out from seated, and there is no change.... your carbs are dirty, and need a full deep cleaning.
Krey
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