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So this is my version of a "how to" for changing carb boot o-rings and sealing up the airbox. Here's the steps an pics along the process..first off came the seat..
Then removed the rear plastics to have it as clear as possible for access etc. For the front plastics I removed ALL the bolts holding the main fairings and let them rotate out of the way. They didn't get in my way an I didn't have to remove the turn signals!
..
Next removed the bolts at the back of the fuel tank, unplug the fuel gauge wires on the right hand side which should be hooked to the #4 carb then the hoses from the petcock and lift the tank off...
After the tank is off you need to remove the fuel tank/airbox bracket. 2 bolts and 1 screw on either side..
Once the bracket is out of the way you loosen the clamps from the airbox to the carbs an pop the airbox off. Then it will look something like this..
With carbs ready to get off next I loosened the clamps on the motor side an rocked the carbs up an down while pulling on em a bit.
The next few steps are only if your removing the carbs entirely like I am to install the new set from Arsenic.
The choke cable is quite simple to remove but the throttle cable was kind of tricky. You need a 10mm an I found the best way was slipping the wrench under the top rail the carbs are mounted to..
You have to loosen it from the top enough to free the lower nut an slip the cable thru the slit on the side.
As you can see here..the #3 carb sync plug is gone so this is one of several reasons I bought a set from Arsenic.
With the carbs off we get back to the boots. I found it much easier to remove the 2 allen head bolts holding the oil lines to the head giving much more room an visibility to do what comes next.
Here's what a few of the screws looked like on my boots..
Yea not pretty so I whipped this out..
After hitting all the screws with penetrating oil I took a 3/8" socket extension with a rounded end..
I place the end shown on the head of each each screw and hit it a few times with a little force from a 5lb sledgehammer. Dont go crazy but a few solid taps to break the screw free from the oxidation..
After tapping it a few times I took my screwdriver of choice, your gonna want a real tight fit..not just a typical #2 tip phillips head. Basically the tip I used was more short tipped an wide an I hammered the screwdriver into place with a couple nice taps an as you can see the screwdriver stayed in place on its own..
Once it fits tight I grabbed firmly an broke it loose. On a few of these I had to repeat the extension an screwdriver deal a couple times til they broke free..
As you can see..mine were clearly not sealing well at all..it looks like rust but its more dirt an gunk so I scraped it off with a flat screwdriver..
Then I took some 600 grit sandpaper an lightly sanded the surface clean..
As I went I was sure not to let any crap in the intake ports. Here's what it looks like before an after..
Now onto the boots, here's a good look at the crappy screws on mine..
And the mating surface of the boot an the flattened o-ring..
I put boots from my other motor on since they were in better shape. Here is what it looks like cleaned an without the o-ring..
And with the OEM o-ring in it..
Now just putting them back on the motor with new allen head bolts an washer..
As you can see in this next pic I replaced all the clamp screws with new stainless 4mm x 25mm .70 pitch screws..
Here you can see why..
They are the same size screw on either side of the carbs so I bought 8.
The next bit is about sealing the airbox up to avoid vacuum leaks. If your not sealing your airbox you can reverse the previous steps to finish up the process. I didn't wanna take any chances so I took a few minutes to be sure. I used the black RTV but im sure you could use something else..
You only need to seal the mating surface, I ran my finger around each boot..
I also used an appropriate sized bolt an some RTV to seal up the drain on the bottom of the airbox..
Be sure when re-mounting the airbox boot to each carb that you remove the air filter an push each boot with your hand as you tighten the clamp.
That was it for me once it dried so I put it all back together an went for a ride!
oh and heres a shot of Arsenic's (partly chris's motorcycles) super clean rebuilt factory pro carbs on my dirty ass bike
I know I left some small details out like swapping fuel lines, overflow hoses etc but you get the point
Just to be clear, the screw I put in the airbox drain was a temporary fix until the appropriate hose is in place and plugged. The hose allows a place for gunk to build-up for periodic draining. Yes it will make a difference if it isnt plugged, I tried.
Then removed the rear plastics to have it as clear as possible for access etc. For the front plastics I removed ALL the bolts holding the main fairings and let them rotate out of the way. They didn't get in my way an I didn't have to remove the turn signals!
..Next removed the bolts at the back of the fuel tank, unplug the fuel gauge wires on the right hand side which should be hooked to the #4 carb then the hoses from the petcock and lift the tank off...
After the tank is off you need to remove the fuel tank/airbox bracket. 2 bolts and 1 screw on either side..
Once the bracket is out of the way you loosen the clamps from the airbox to the carbs an pop the airbox off. Then it will look something like this..
With carbs ready to get off next I loosened the clamps on the motor side an rocked the carbs up an down while pulling on em a bit.
The next few steps are only if your removing the carbs entirely like I am to install the new set from Arsenic.
The choke cable is quite simple to remove but the throttle cable was kind of tricky. You need a 10mm an I found the best way was slipping the wrench under the top rail the carbs are mounted to..
You have to loosen it from the top enough to free the lower nut an slip the cable thru the slit on the side.
As you can see here..the #3 carb sync plug is gone so this is one of several reasons I bought a set from Arsenic.
With the carbs off we get back to the boots. I found it much easier to remove the 2 allen head bolts holding the oil lines to the head giving much more room an visibility to do what comes next.
Here's what a few of the screws looked like on my boots..
Yea not pretty so I whipped this out..
After hitting all the screws with penetrating oil I took a 3/8" socket extension with a rounded end..
I place the end shown on the head of each each screw and hit it a few times with a little force from a 5lb sledgehammer. Dont go crazy but a few solid taps to break the screw free from the oxidation..
After tapping it a few times I took my screwdriver of choice, your gonna want a real tight fit..not just a typical #2 tip phillips head. Basically the tip I used was more short tipped an wide an I hammered the screwdriver into place with a couple nice taps an as you can see the screwdriver stayed in place on its own..
Once it fits tight I grabbed firmly an broke it loose. On a few of these I had to repeat the extension an screwdriver deal a couple times til they broke free..
As you can see..mine were clearly not sealing well at all..it looks like rust but its more dirt an gunk so I scraped it off with a flat screwdriver..
Then I took some 600 grit sandpaper an lightly sanded the surface clean..
As I went I was sure not to let any crap in the intake ports. Here's what it looks like before an after..
Now onto the boots, here's a good look at the crappy screws on mine..
And the mating surface of the boot an the flattened o-ring..
I put boots from my other motor on since they were in better shape. Here is what it looks like cleaned an without the o-ring..
And with the OEM o-ring in it..
Now just putting them back on the motor with new allen head bolts an washer..
As you can see in this next pic I replaced all the clamp screws with new stainless 4mm x 25mm .70 pitch screws..
Here you can see why..
They are the same size screw on either side of the carbs so I bought 8.
The next bit is about sealing the airbox up to avoid vacuum leaks. If your not sealing your airbox you can reverse the previous steps to finish up the process. I didn't wanna take any chances so I took a few minutes to be sure. I used the black RTV but im sure you could use something else..
You only need to seal the mating surface, I ran my finger around each boot..
I also used an appropriate sized bolt an some RTV to seal up the drain on the bottom of the airbox..
Be sure when re-mounting the airbox boot to each carb that you remove the air filter an push each boot with your hand as you tighten the clamp.
That was it for me once it dried so I put it all back together an went for a ride!
oh and heres a shot of Arsenic's (partly chris's motorcycles) super clean rebuilt factory pro carbs on my dirty ass bike
I know I left some small details out like swapping fuel lines, overflow hoses etc but you get the point
Just to be clear, the screw I put in the airbox drain was a temporary fix until the appropriate hose is in place and plugged. The hose allows a place for gunk to build-up for periodic draining. Yes it will make a difference if it isnt plugged, I tried.
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