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Tightening down cambearing caps

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  • #1

    Tightening down cambearing caps

    Need some advice on tightening the cambearing caps down. I know you need to crisscross them but do you do one cam then the other or do both cams together and does doing both of them together keep the cams from turning when the springpressure kicks in on the open valves. I just need some clarification on tightening the cams down. Thanks guys. Getting ready to replace my head soon and trying to do my homework before I tackle it.
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  • #2
    I replaced my cams one at a time. Took the first out, replaced it... tightened it. Then took the second one out, same process.

    No reason why you shouldn't be able to do one at a time. Just start with the EXHAUST first. Will be easier that way. Intake side is the one with the slack adjuster.

    Greg

    COURAGE -

    Freedom is the sure possession of those alone
    who have the courage to defend it.

    First Sergeant(Ret) - US Army - 21 years

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    • #3
      Criss-cross , yeah . I turned mine like a turn or 2 at a time before moving to the next one to make sure they tightened-down evenly . Not much to it , really . Ain't you supposed to have the cam pointed a certain direction so as to have as little spring pressure as possible ? I THOUGHT I read something in the book about pointing it a certain way ...
      I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



      Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

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      • #4
        cam bearings

        8) Thanks homie, that's good advice. Appreciate the help. MD, I think the book showed the cam notches facing in on installation and away on removeal. I've also noticed ya'll counting 21 pins, my manual says 24 pins post 98, but I'm using a 750 manual on a 600. I'm guessing the early Kats are 21 pins with the top idler. Mine is a 03 600. Thanks for the help guys, maybe we can get Sin in on this.LOL. I'm gonna count the pins before I pull the cams and look at all my timing marks. I appreciate the replys, thanks again.

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        • #5
          All you need to do is rotate the engine to TDC using the pickup on the right side so the timing mark (the LINE on the rotor) is lined up with the pickup module. Then your cams should both be facing in towards each other or out away from each other. Just remember, write down, take pictures or whatever and put them back in the same position when you reassemble. I don't know why the pictures would show the cams in one position for removal and another for installation. Unless you rotate the lower half of the motor while apart, they need to go back in the SAME WAY they came out.

          If you are off by one tooth, it will run. But it will run like crap!! Don't ask how I know.

          Just keep the chain somewhat tight so it don't fall into the motor. Then reinstall your exhaust cam first getting the chain tight around it and ensuring the mark lines up with the block once seated (might have to do it more than once). If there is an idler gear for 98+'s install that next but dont tighten down fully. Then go for the intake cam. Once seated check alignment with the block again. Now tighten the idler (if present). NOW, you can reinstall your cam chain tensioner and let it take up the slack.

          What pins are you referring to?? Teeth on the cam gears??

          Greg

          COURAGE -

          Freedom is the sure possession of those alone
          who have the courage to defend it.

          First Sergeant(Ret) - US Army - 21 years

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          • #6
            cam bearings

            Sounds like a good plan, Homie. Deffinately going after the exhaust first. I use a small pocket screwdriver when setting cam timing. I just slide it through the chain and sprocket on one side or the other depending which way I need to go, works pretty good. I don't have a idler, just a top guide, Believe it goes on last after cams and tensioner is done. Deffinately going to do a hand turn to make sure everything lines up ok and chain slack is good. Still debating wheather to drop motor or just tilt it down. I'll know when I get ready to pull head. Thanks again for the reply, I really appreciate it. Just want to line my ducks up before I jump on this thing.

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            • #7
              Don't try to tighten up the top guide after you put the tensioner in. Make the tensioner the LAST thing you put back in. But before you put the valve cover, etc back on of course. The tensioner will tighten the chain between the two cams and then it will be too tight between the two cams and potentially rotate one of them off their mark.

              Yeah, after you have both cams in, top guide tight, and cam chain tensioner in, spin the motor once or twice to make sure the cam marks line up with the edge of the block each time. That was my mistake. One was slightly off from the other. I didn't check it well enough before I buttoned it all back up.

              Greg

              COURAGE -

              Freedom is the sure possession of those alone
              who have the courage to defend it.

              First Sergeant(Ret) - US Army - 21 years

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              • #8
                cam bearings

                Will do, that makes sence. Thanks man.

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                • #9
                  I haven't wrenched on bikes long, and haven't had a motor apart, but wouldn't it be wise to use a torque wrench for something like cam bearing caps?
                  2000 Katana 600
                  2011 Triumph Sprint GT
                  __________________________________________
                  "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find ya handy."
                  ____________________________________________

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                  • #10
                    I hate assuming anything, but I assume he WILL be using a torque wrench.

                    I don't remember reading anywhere in this about NOT using one. Maybe I missed it.

                    Greg

                    COURAGE -

                    Freedom is the sure possession of those alone
                    who have the courage to defend it.

                    First Sergeant(Ret) - US Army - 21 years

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      torque wrench

                      I always use a torque wrench and go by the specs, wouldn't do engine work with out one.

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