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wont idle when warmed

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  • #1

    wont idle when warmed

    hello. 92 750 wont hold a normal idle around 1500 rpm, will hold around 2.3k rpm. everything in the carbs is cleaned out properly but i know i have bad needles and emulsion tubes. could they be responsible for the bikes inability to idle? if the bike is sitting there idling at 2.5k and i lower it it holds around 1.5 for a bit making me happy, then it starts to drop little bit to 1k then it just drops more then stalls quickly.

    also while im out riding if it starts to bog down if i open the throttle there is no response. im at wot and teh bike wont rev past 1k and will stall if i let go. eventually a good 20 seconds later it clears up and revs up al the way to redline. im rich right? and its the emulsion tubes right?
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  • #2
    Originally posted by apsolus View Post
    hello. 92 750 wont hold a normal idle around 1500 rpm, will hold around 2.3k rpm. everything in the carbs is cleaned out properly but i know i have bad needles and emulsion tubes. could they be responsible for the bikes inability to idle? if the bike is sitting there idling at 2.5k and i lower it it holds around 1.5 for a bit making me happy, then it starts to drop little bit to 1k then it just drops more then stalls quickly.

    also while im out riding if it starts to bog down if i open the throttle there is no response. im at wot and teh bike wont rev past 1k and will stall if i let go. eventually a good 20 seconds later it clears up and revs up al the way to redline. im rich right? and its the emulsion tubes right?
    If your emulation tubes are worn, they would cause mid range to run rich, and opening the throttle would clear that up quickly. To further explain... The most common experience would be inability to hold a steady throttle and speed with out the bike starting to bog or run poorly, but as soon as you open the throttle more it clears up. It would have little effect on acceleration or rev unless it's extremely worn.

    If your needles are not seating correctly, or have not previously... it would cause fuel to flood out and enter into the crank case. Fuel mixed with the oil will cause the bike to run rich when warm. This would be the most likely cause of a katana running rich and having throttle up issues due to it.

    Check your oil, any fuel smell at all means it's contaminated and needs changed.

    Krey
    93 750 Kat



    Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

    "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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    • #3
      oil is new ive been checking the level too and its the same everyday. infact i bought it with leaking bowls and the crankcase was indeed flooded. well i havent taken it very far because on my last ride some metal piece fell into the chain area and started making hella noise, with no tools on me i decided to head home. i did notice it starting to bog during freeway cruise. i had to jb weld the ends of the needles near the clips as the metal was literally shaved away, ive never seen such a thing. i figured it must have been a sad attempt at free jetting??? so the needles have visible wear along the tapered edges and i ended up trying to jb weld and sanding best i could to smooth them out,. (i was impressed) then replaced the jets with stock 105 x3 and the one 110 for cylinder 3 and i gained full throttle accel but im still dealing with a bike that no matter how you ride it wants to run rich. thats my guess anyway. did i mention having to hold the throttle open for 20 seconds and it sitting at 1k the whole time?

      i could be leaking a small enough amount of fuel at a time not to notice yet so ill take a smell test tomorrow for sure. and im not quite sure as the carbs are together on the bike atm but the needles and tubes are likely junk so i could assume that if im right about that and im leaking fuel into the engine replacing them could help fix the problem?
      Last edited by apsolus; 10-22-2016, 01:01 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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      • #4
        Replace the needles, your not good enough to fix a precise piece. Check the emulsion tubes, they need to be perfectly round. If the needles were worn, so are the emulsion tubes.
        Last edited by 92xjunker; 10-22-2016, 01:28 PM.
        "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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        • #5
          If you have to buy new needles anyways (which you do) it'd be a great time for a jet kit. Almost all the benefit is from the better needle design. (This is assuming a factory pro jet kit)
          And honestly, the difference in price between OEM needles and a FP jet kit is likely not that much.
          1998 Katana 750
          1992 Katana 1100
          2006 Ninja 250

          2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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          • #6
            ive thought of this but it seems i need emulsion tubes as well and if you do the math the difference in price is not that much anyway. the needles on these carbs looked like someone used them to sharpen a knife, huge gash of metal missing on all 4 needles which made them flop around a bit more than usual and messing up the e tubes. im still trying to make sense of what the po was trying to do here, some kinda jet kit?

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