Really rusted pipes

[newride]

hello all,
On with the project 97 katana.
I tried with all my might today to get off the old mufflers from the front of the motor. The bolts are very rusted. The bike sat outside for 9 months under a cover, so the pipes and bolts are in rough shape.
What I tried so far:
1. swearing
2. lots of WD-40
3. Heat: a blow torque on one for about a minute to loosen it. Nothing.
4. Drill with an allen wrench end on it. Would not budge.
5. more swearing

I may take it to my mechanic just to take the mufflers off so I do not strip things.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks again,
newride

[KSlawman]

P.B. Blaster, it's awsome stuff. Available at Wal-Mart, hardware or auto parts stores every where.

[donalson]

2nd PB blaster... its like WD40 on crack...

spray the hell outa the nuts/bolts every few hrs for a day and come back to it tommarow...

also tapping bolts with a hammer sometimes helps

[babybusa]

^^^^^^what he sad adout crack hilarous^^^^^^

[donalson]

...thats how it was introduced to me about 5 years back when i got into mr-2's... "wd40 on crack"

put a little in the bottom of a styraphom (SP?) cup and it will EAT it away...

sometimes you can literaly HEAR it eatting away at the rust... it's kewl stuff

[newride]

PB

Thanks all,
I will give PB blaster a try!
the more I can do on this project without a mechanic the more I learn!
newride

[newride]

PS, pictures of the beast and its progress coming.............its going to be one tough, ugly street bike when it is done!

[The CyberPoet]

The traditional methods:

1. Use a long-armed wrench and an allen-key socket (8mm allen if I recall right).

2. Take an impact driver and put in the right tip (8mm allen I think), then give 'em a bit of a swack in the tighter direction (to break the grip without breaking the bolt. Reverse and swack 'em again (much harder this time) to loosen... OR

3. Take a set of vice-grips to the heads of the bolts (around the outside), being careful to apply pressure in a rotational motion so you don't shear 'em off.

No matter what, if they're rusted, you're not going to get 'em out holding a traditional hand-held allen key. When you go to put them (or their replacements) back in, coat them with high-temp anti-seize to avoid a repeat of this problem in the future.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[donalson]

ah didn't relize they where hex keys... still so used to my car guy days...

as usualy cyber is right on the money though... tighten slightly before trying to loosen will help...

[Special K]

Man, when I saw this post I was totally ready to jump on it and bust somebody's chops about : MUST HAVE BEEN HEAT WRAP TAPE!

[KatMan94]

Yeah just be really careful and dont rush it. Use plenty of penetrant and let it sit for a while. I got impatient with mine and my engine is sitting at the engine shop getting two of the exhaust bolts drilled out.

[md86]

The traditional methods:

1. Use a long-armed wrench and an allen-key socket (8mm allen if I recall right).

6mm

[The CyberPoet]

We are talking about the header bolts, right (where the pipes come out of the engine)? Or are you talking about the midpipe bolt & nut arrangement?


Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[newride]

yes,
The header bolts

[mystahagy]

Any time I've gotta break bolts loose on a car or bike that are suspect to this kind of trouble, I start soaking them down with the mentioned PB Blaster for a good couple days. Haven't had a single problem yet when I'm patient and use this method, problem is I need to be patient more often. And yes, PB Blaster is AWESOME! If you watch closely, you can actually see it get sucked into the threads. In the words of Joe Dirt's dad, "I don't know how it works, it just does."