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Cleaning an torn down engine.

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  • Cleaning an torn down engine.

    Hello,

    As you may know I am tearing my engine apart completely, crank case and all.

    I was wondering if while I have the engine in parts if it would hurt anything to power wash the outside of the crank case, block, and heads?

    I would obviously dry everything right away but I am not sure if there would be any ill effects? I would also block off the cylinders. Any advice or reasons not too ?
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  • #2
    I often prefer to leave ferrous items dirty/oily until it's time to inspect them and/or reinstall.

    I have tried to plug engines and clean them, but it's very hard to know if you're successful until you open it up and find things rusted, or not. I think it's risky to powerwash anything you won't be able to start up immediately if there are ferrous parts involved, i.e.: bores, cranks, rods, transmissions.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Molochnik View Post
      I often prefer to leave ferrous items dirty/oily until it's time to inspect them and/or reinstall.

      I have tried to plug engines and clean them, but it's very hard to know if you're successful until you open it up and find things rusted, or not. I think it's risky to powerwash anything you won't be able to start up immediately if there are ferrous parts involved, i.e.: bores, cranks, rods, transmissions.
      Hmm I guess I'll just get a hard brush for the outside case and see what I can get off. I just want it to be semi clean because it was filthy when I got it. I have everything apart so drying it wouldn't be hard and then spraying fogging oil. I have the pistons out and everything. I guess better safe than sorry.

      Also this was supposed to be posted in the katana section not in the long term project section! Sorry
      Last edited by Yeoj112689; 06-29-2015, 05:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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      • #4
        Some WD-40 and those cheap red rags could do a pretty good job. It's definitely worth getting things clean before reassembly - especially the outside of cases, jugs, et al, since the crap on the outside can easily find its way inside.

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        • #5
          Pressure washing before assembly is a must. It can be done after as well.
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          • #6
            Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
            Pressure washing before assembly is a must. It can be done after as well.
            Yeah I plan on pressure washing the entire frame as well before placing the engine back in because its pretty grimy. The only thing I do not plan on pressure washing is near the fork seals. The rest is going to be washed and painted. I have the entire wiring harness off so it should be semi easy. I am just curious on how fast the cylinders will rush if water is on them. I do not want to have any issues with them if avoidable.
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            • #7
              Just spray them down with WD40 after.
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              • #8
                Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                Just spray them down with WD40 after.
                Will the WD40 have any ill effects on the internals if not removed prior to installation? I would assume its oil base wouldn't hurt much but I don't like to assume on such a big project and have to redo it.
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                • #9
                  I have had no bad experience WD on internals, however, after fairly invasive maintenance I typically run a batch oil through it (for a break-in perhaps) and drain it. I'll even wait to change oil until after a valve adjustment; after it's buttoned up, go for a cruise, and change the oil.
                  I was actually looking for some cheap "rinse" oil at the auto parts store and nothing was cheaper than Rotella - what I plan on using for normal operation.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Molochnik View Post
                    I have had no bad experience WD on internals, however, after fairly invasive maintenance I typically run a batch oil through it (for a break-in perhaps) and drain it. I'll even wait to change oil until after a valve adjustment; after it's buttoned up, go for a cruise, and change the oil.
                    I was actually looking for some cheap "rinse" oil at the auto parts store and nothing was cheaper than Rotella - what I plan on using for normal operation.
                    This is my plan as well. I don't plan on having it up and running this summer (engine will be, body probably won't) so I plan on running some cheap oil in it to make sure its runs and such after the rebuild. Then most likely winterize it until the frame and such is ready.
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                    • #11
                      Well I think I've decided I am going to block off the cylinders and I pulled the Pistons and all internals, I am going to power wash the outside and get the water off asap. I'll post results.
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                      • #12
                        I haven't had any issues with WD after cleaning an engine. You just need to bock oxygen from the now bare metal.
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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                          I haven't had any issues with WD after cleaning an engine. You just need to bock oxygen from the now bare metal.
                          How fast will it rust with the water on there? I want to avoid flash rusting but I am not sure how fast it will start.
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                          • #14
                            It's pretty quick. That's why I use Water Displacement 40
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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                              It's pretty quick. That's why I use Water Displacement 40
                              Do you spray it on before or after or both? I just don't want it to mess up my cylinders.
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